V-Venezia magazine - Special issue - Carnival 2014

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magazine V V e e n n e e z z i i a a

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V magazine - Special issue - Carnival - february 2014 (english version) V-Venezia magazine is the new digital magazine written by the Tourism Department of the City of Venice. It promotes sustainable cultural tourism: art exhibitions and events, but also itineraries and eco-friendly travel ideas, in Venice and in its lagoon.

Transcript of V-Venezia magazine - Special issue - Carnival 2014

Page 1: V-Venezia magazine - Special issue - Carnival 2014

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Page 2: V-Venezia magazine - Special issue - Carnival 2014

This year, the Venice Carnival season will last betweenFebruary 15 to March 4.The Carnival in Venice has always attracted visitors fromall over Europe and, now more than ever, from all overthe world. Despite not being the biggest, it is definitelythe better known and most fascinating after 900 years.Evidence of the first Carnival date back to 1094 and itimmediately became an exciting celebration for all thepopulation.Once upon a time, Carnival time meant that allVenetians could leave their jobs aside and have fun ­stages were set up in the main campi (squares), alongthe Riva degli Schiavoni and in St. Mark's Square.People came to admire the various attractions like

jugglers, acrobats and dancing animals, trumpets,penny­whistles and drums would be played in everycampo or calle and street vendors would sell dried fruit,chestnuts, fritole (fried doughnuts with a variety offillings) and all kinds of sweets.Young nobles arranged historical masquerades whichbecame very famous. They were grouped together in theso­called 'Compagnie della Calza', which wore distinctivehosiery and created and organised the performancesthroughout Carnival time. 23 'Compagnie della Calza'were active between 1487 and 1565.

1700sThe Carnival reached its maximum splendour in the

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1700s. This is the century that saw Giacomo Casanovascamper around the city while Guardi, Boucher,Fragonard, Longhi and Tiepolo painted what happenedduring the festivities and Carlo Goldoni wrote hiscomedies, creating characters that would live on to thisday.People would attend official events, especially the Forzed'Ercole, i.e. strength and balance displays wherecontestants would challenge each other by creating verycomplex acrobatic figures, and the Volo del Turco,where an acrobat would slide down a rope from St.Mark's bell tower. In addition, there were fireworks aswell as tightrope walkers, puppeteers and street artists.Private parties were held in the magnificent palaces,

where guests could gamble or take part in luxuriousmasked balls. Ridotto, a casino located in palazzoDandolo in San Moisé, was run by the state and it stayedopen between 1638 and 1774. It became one of the mostpopular places during Carnival time. The only ones whowere allowed in without wearing a mask were theBarnabotti, i.e. the impoverished nobility who had noother option than to work as croupiers.1800sThings changed in the 1800s. Venice became the mostromantic city in the world and was visited by many ofthe most important people of the time such as Wagner,Byron, George Sand, Ugo Foscolo and Empress Sissi ofAustria. After the fall of the Republic in 1797, Carnival

The Flight of the turk or of the Angel

This tradition was namedby the enterprise ofwhich he was theprotagonist in the mid1500's a young turkishtumbler of trade. From aboat docked at the pier infront of the Piazzetta , theacrobat was able to get upto the belfry of theCampanile of San Marco,walking on a rope onlywith the help of a barbell. It was a show so exciting that bythat year the company renewed itself over the centuries,with the addition of countless variations . It is usually heldthe last Thursday before Lent , with the Piazza San Marcofrom the packed crowd and the presence of the Doge andthe nobility. In later versions the " Svolo " was repeated byprofessional acrobats , until some commoners called "Arsenalotti " ( the workers of the shipyards of the Arsenale) wanted to try , specializing in such an endeavor. Over theyears the " Svolo " changed forms and customs , becomingan official ceremony divided into three phases, the so­called " Turkish " ­ or "Angel" for the fake wings on hisback ­ had to do: climb the rope up to the bell tower byshow, then spins down to the loggia of the Palazzo Ducalewhere the Doge received from her hands a bouquet offlowers or cards with the sonnets and finally climb the belltower. Often in exchange for the bouquet of flowers , theDoge rewarded the " Turkish " with a sum of money . Ashas become tradition , Mary will be the winner of the 2013Carnival dubbed the new Angel edition 2014.

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celebrations were downsized and eventually ceased afterthe Austrian and French occupation. The tradition onlysurvived in the Murano and Burano islands.

Modern CarnivalAfter years of complete silence, in 1979 Carnivalcelebrations were revived and immediately became anevent not to be missed. Thanks to the help of somecitizens and local associations, the first modern Carnivalwas inaugurated that year, and the town council, TeatroLa Fenice, the Tourist office and the Biennale organiseda whole variety of events lasting ten days.At Carnival time, there are numerous improvised eventsand shows by street artists or planned by the organisersin the campi all over Venice. All kinds of masks fill upthe calli ­ from the most traditional ones inspired by theXVIII century to the most original and creative.The heart of the celebrations is St. Mark's Square, wherea huge stage is set up for concerts and shows, but thereare also many events all over the city spreading thefestive spirit to all the Sestieri. While the expensive andextravagant parties organised in the palaces recreate thesplendour of the Serenissima Republic, the squareremains the place where the Carnival still has thecharacteristics of a local festival.

2014 Edition ­ Wonder and Fantasy NatureThe theme of this year's Carnival is fairy tales, wondersand fantasy. It will be the Carnival of fantasy and ofnature ­ a truly global one, as every culture has usedfantasy and fairy tales as metaphors of life. It will be atopical Carnival, because fairy tales are the right way todeal with relationships between humans and theenvironment ­ woods, valleys, seas, mountains, lagoons

and the mysterious creatures that inhabit them.Everyone recognises the need for human beings tonarrate the mysteries of nature through fairy tales. Allcultures worldwide have created an infinite number ofsymbols and characters to describe the origin of life,atmospheric elements, plants and animals first usingmyths and then fairy tales.

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Franco Fontana. Full Colorfrom febbraio 15th to may 18th − Istituto

Veneto di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti

www.istitutoveneto.it

AHomagetoGoffredoPariseuntil february 16th − Centro Culturale

Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

TheyearsofRomeoMartinezuntil february 16th − Ca' Pesaro, Venezia

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

Viktor Popkov 1932­1974dal 19 febbraio al 27 aprile − Ca' Foscari

Esposizioni

www.unive.it

FairyTalesfromallovertheworldfrom february 21st to april 23th − Centro

Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Thefantasticstoriesinourarchives21st february − Soprintendenza archivistica

per il Veneto

www.save.archivi.beniculturali.it

VascoAscolini­photographsuntil february 23th − Cultural Flow Zone

www.unive.it

Il San Giovannino di Ùbedauntil february 23th − Palazzo Grimani

www.palazzogrimani.org

The nature of thingsuntil february 25th − Casa di Carlo Goldoni

www.carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it

Sport, sportsmen... inEurope at waruntil february 23th − Museo Ebraico

www.museoebraico.it

The theatre of EleonoraDuse and GabrieleD'Annunziofino al 28 febbraio − Fondazione Cini

www.cini.it

A region and itsconcentration campsuntil march 23th − Ikona Gallery

www.ikonavenezia.com

MarioLasalandraexhibitionuntil march 23th − Centro Culturale

Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Thetreasuresof theGhettountil march 31th − Galleria G. Franchetti

alla Ca' d'Oro

www.cadoro.org

The Empire of Lightuntil april 14th − Collezione Peggy

Guggenheim

www.guggenheim­venice.it

Gifts by Shah Abbasuntil march 27th − Palazzo Ducale

www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

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Archives of LandscapePaintingsuntil march 28th − Ca' Rezzonico

www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it

American dialogues ­Giuseppe Panza di Biumountil may 4th − Ca' Pesaro

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

Genesisuntil may 11th − Casa dei Tre Oci

www.treoci.org

TheImageoftheEuropeanCityuntil may 18th − Museo Correr

www.correr.visitmuve.it

Renaissanceuntil may 25th − Espace Louis Vuitton

www.visitmuve.it

Léger 1910 ­1930until june 2nd − Museo Correr

www.correr.visitmuve.it

The Serenissimo princeuntil june 30th − Palazzo Ducale

www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

Prima Materiauntil december 31st − Punta della Dogana

www.palazzograssi.it/it/mostre/prima­

materia

Madonnas. Dressedstatued of the Virgin Maryuntil december 31st − Museo Diocesano

d'Arte Sacra

www.veneziaupt.org

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OperetteMorali

dal 12 al 16 febbraio − Teatro Goldoni

www.teatrostabileveneto.it

VenicebeforeVenice

13, 17 febbraio e 13 marzo − Biblioteca

Nazionale Marciana

www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it

BaroccoSorrentino

13, 18, 20, 25 febbraio − Centro Culturale

Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Rehabilitation isFun

14, 21, 28 febbraio − Centro Culturale

Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

VisiteguidateaCa'Pesaro

dal 15 febbraio al 3 maggio − Ca' Pesaro

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

st_artpertutti

15 e 22 febbraio − Punta della Dogana

www.palazzograssi.it

Carnival2014

dal 15 febbraio al 4 marzo − Sedi varie

www.carnevale.venezia.it

TheLegendoftheFlyingRabbit

15 febbraio − Teatro Fondamente Nuove

www.teatrofondamentanuove.it

Fromonemodernitytoanother

15 febbraio − Palazzetto Bru Zane

www.bru­zane.com

Freeguidedtours

dal 15 febbraio al 3 marzo − Peggy

Guggenheim Collection

www.guggenheim­venice.it

"Venice"... throughitsstories

dal 15 febbraio al 4 marzo − Teatro San

Gallo

www. Teatrosangallo.net

NordicWalkinCarnival

15 febbraio − Itinerari vari

www.carnevale.venezia.it

FiatColor

15 febbraio − Istituto Veneto di Scienze,

Lettere ed Arti

www.istitutoveneto.it

LaTraviata

dal 15 febbraio al 8 marzo − Teatro La

Fenice

www.teatrolafenice.it

AVenetianpartyonwater

15 e 16 febbraio − Canal Grande e Sestiere

Cannaregio

www.carnevale.venezia.it

L'AmericanDreamdiGiuseppePanza

16 febbraio − Ca' Pesaro

www.capesaro.visitmuve.it

Matodeguera

16 febbraio − Teatro Co rso

www.dalvivoeventi.it

FestadiCarnevale

16 febbraio − Sala ex cinema Perla

www.comune.venezia.it

Inviaggiotra isatelliti

16 febbraio − Planetario Lido di Venezia

www.astrovenezia.net

Ibestiolini(Littlebeasties)

16 febbraio − Teatro Momo

www.culturaspettacolovenezia.it

Reijseger­Fraanje­SyllaTrio:DownDeep

16 febbraio − Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

KidsDay

16 e 23 febbraio − Peggy Guggenheim

Collection

www.guggenheim­venice.it

CandianiGroove

16 e 23 febbraio−Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

RaccontandoVenezia

18 febbraio − Biblioteca Civica di Mestre ­

Villa Erizzo

www.comitatovenezia.it

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TheKing'sSpeech

dal 19 al 23 febbraio − Teatro Goldoni

www.teatrostabileveneto.it

AtelierCasaMacchietta

19, 22, 23, 26 febbraio − Fondazione

Querini Stampalia

www.querinistampalia.org

JewishArtMusic

19 febbraio − Fondazione Ugo e Olga Levi

www.fondazionelevi.it

Ancientandcurrentwelcoming

19 febbraio − Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

MestreFilmFest

19 febbraio − Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

TheBarberofSeville

dal 20 febbraio al 9 marzo − Teatro La

Fenice

www.teatrolafenice.it

LeMappedelTesoro(TreasureMaps)

20 febbraio e 27 marzo − Biblioteca

Nazionale Marciana

www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it

Meetingsonthesubjectofsustainability

20 febbraio − Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

ConferenceonTomasoBuzzi

21 febbraio − Fondazione Giorgio Cini

www.cini.it

IlCarnevaledeibambiniallaSerradeiGiardini

22, 23 febbraio , 1 e 2 marzo − Serra dei

Giardini

www.serradeigiardini.org

OneThousandandOneNights

22 febbraio − Teatro Fondamente Nuove

www.teatrofondamentanuove.it

MeetingComics

22 febbraio − Fondazione Querini

Stampalia

www.querinistampalia.org

FestadelleMarie

22 febbraio e 4 marzo − Piazza San Marco

www.carnevale.venezia.it

5.KidsCarnival

dal 22 febbraio al 4 marzo − Biennale di

Venezia

www.labiennale.org

TravellingTheatre

dal 22 febbraio al 4 marzo − Piazza San

Marco

www.carnevale.venezia.it

BestMaskedCostumeContest

dal 22 febbraio al 4 marzo−Piazza San Marco

www.carnevale.venezia.it

SafariNaturalistico inMuseo

23 febbraio − Museo di Storia Naturale

www.msn.visitmuve.it

Gioveeisuoisatelliti

23rd february − Planetario Lido di Venezia

www.astrovenezia.net

Carnivalparade

23 febbraio − Piazzetta Lepanto

www.comune.venezia.it

BoboRondellie l’Orchestrino

23 febbraio − Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Flightof theAngel

23 febbraio − Piazza San Marco

www.carnevale.venezia.it

BlueNotes

23 febbraio − Teatro La Fenice

www.teatrolafenice.it

Familyvisit totheCandianiCentre

23 febbraio − Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Freeguidedtour

dal 24 al 28 febbraio e 3 marzo − Palazzetto

Bru Zane

www.bru­zane.com

TheImaginaryInvalid

dal 26 al 28 febbario e 2 marzo − Teatro

Goldoni

www.teatrostabileveneto.it

ThenightsofArsenale

dal 27 febbraio al 4 marzo − Arsenale di

Venezia

www.carnevale.venezia.it

Guidedtours­Diana'sTales

27 febbraio,1,2,4 marzo − Fondazione

Querini Stampalia

www.querinistampalia.org

MaskedCa'Foscari

27 febbraio e 4 marzo − Ca' Foscari

www.unive.it

CircusKlezmer

27 febbraio − Teatro Toniolo

culturaspettacolovenezia.it

Backstage

28 febbario − Palazzo Mocenigo

www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

TheBeatles incinemas

28 febbraio − Centro Culturale Candiani

www.candiani.comune.venezia.it

Thebirthofcinemas

28 febbraio − Istituto Veneto di Scienze,

Lettere ed Arti

www.istitutoveneto.it

IlCampiello

28 febbraio e 2, 5, 7, 11, marzo − Teatro

Malibran

www.teatrolafenice.it

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Baùte, morette, gnaghe and plague doctors are some of the most famous masks in the Vene­tian tradition, to which those from the Commedia dell'arte were added, made famous bytheatrical plays and by the comedies of Carlo Goldoni in particular. Zanni, Pantalone,Arlecchino, Pulcinella, Colombina... Just how do you dress up to take part in one of the many

BuongiornoSiora

Maschera!

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masked balls organised every evening duringCarnival time? There are no doubts ­ a classi­cal Venetian costume: baùta for him and mo­retta for her and tabarro (black cape) andtricorn (three­cornered hat) for both.It would be just unthinkable to leave Venicewithout having taken a peek at one of themany specialised shops and studios, withouthaving bought a mask or having rented aCarnival costume. These were in fashionalready at the time of Goldoni who, in his "LeMassere" comedy, explains that those whocould not afford to buy splendid costumeswould rent them from the revendigola (se­cond­hand retailer).Just entering a workshop that makes masksor costumes is like taking a leap into the pastand entering a magic and dream­like world.Despite the fact that there are many maskand costume shops of all kinds, there are stillsome workshops where craftsmen create pa­per­maché or leather masks using traditionalmethods, or studios where designers and tai­

lors sew unique outfits and accessories. No­wadays, masks have become popular again ­once the Carnival was revived in the 1980s,the work of maschereri ­ craftsmen whocreated masks ­ and specialised tailors wasrequested yet again.

History of Venetian masks

'Buongiorno Siora Machera' (Good MorningMs. Mask) was the usual greeting of Vene­tians during Carnival time as identities, sexand social status disappeared beneath thecharm of costumes. Since the very beginning,masks in Venice became a synonym for free­dom, a way to break social rules and hideone's identity even in everyday life. The firstevidence of masks being used dates back tothe 1200s, but it was in the 1700s that theybecame fashionable ­ everybody wore onefrom old people to children, nobles andcommoners, rich and poor people alike, as

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well as servants when they went shopping,theatre attendants and beggars. At least until1797, the year in which the Republic came underFrench domination, Venetians wore masks notonly at Carnival time ­ i.e. from Boxing Day (De­cember 26, the ancient date of the start of theCarnival) to midnight on Shrove Tuesday ­ butalso throughout the year and the use of the ta­barro and the baùta were allowed on festivedays. In the mid 1700s, the Venetian painter Pie­tro Longhi depicted this tradition in many of hisworks. Il ridotto (Pinacoteca Querini Stampalia ­Venice), for example, depicts a room in a casinowith many masked characters: some wearing awhite "face" and others a black moretta, one ofthe most ancient Venetian masks. Traditionalmasks were made of leather or papier­machéand were used as disguises. The tabarro or thedomino (a long cape with a hood) and thedisturbing white "face" made everyone look thesame, thus guaranteeing they would not be reco­gnised.

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Baùta

The most popular Venetian costume,which appeared around the year 1600. It

was worn by bothmen and women andit consists of a blacktabarro and a veilcovering theshoulders worn witha black tricorn hatand a larva ("ghost"in Latin), a whitemask hiding the fa­ce. It was very popu­lar as one could eatand drink whilewearing it. It wasused a lot also intheatres and at

parties, but many also used it normally,as it allowed people to court or becourted without being recognised. It be­came the synonym of freedom of expres­sion and that is why people wouldcurtsey out of respect when they met onein the calle.

Moretta

The moretta is a black velvet oval maskworn by nobles or humble wo­

men. The name derivesfrom the word "mo­

ro", which meansblack in Venetian,and it becamevery popularbecause itexalted the palecomplexionand red hair ty­pical of Vene­tians. It is

different fromother masks be­

cause it is'

mute', since it has no lips or mouthand was held in place by thewearer biting on a button,which prevented themfrom speaking.

Gnaga

The gnaga, whose nameprobably derives fromthe word "gnau", thenoise of a cat, is a ma­sk that resembles a cat.It was usually worn withwomen's clothes and awhite bonnet and used bymen to impersonate a wo­man. At Carnival time,Gnagas would often carry abasket with a kitten.

Pantalone

Among the costumes taken from theCommedia dell'arte, Pantalone is maybethe best­known. Its name could derivefrom San Pantalon, one of the Venetiansaints to whom a church is dedicated inthe sestiere of Dorsoduro. Pantalone wasan old merchant, a symbol of the Vene­tian bourgeoisie and trade ethics whosemind was always thinking of business ­which sometimes was profitable and atother times led him to ruin ­ and he ne­ver missed a chance to make a pass at alady. The mask is characterised by ahooked nose, protruding eyebrows anda pointed beard.

The Plague Doctor

The mask was designed in the XVIcentury by the French doctor Charlesde Lorma. It is not a tradi­tional Carnivalmask, but it wasactually worn as a

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precaution to avoid catching the terrible plague that started sprea­ding through Venice in 1630. Doctors would wear it along with ablack cloak and gloves and the beak would be filled with aromatic es­sences to neutralise the miasmas of the plague. It became a symbol ofdeath.

Pulcinel la (Punch)

A famous Neapolitan mask with a beak­like nose and a huge mouth.It can resemble a rooster so it is thought that the name derives from"pulcino", which means chick. He is a loser and lazy acrobat. His co­stume is white and loose­fitting with a tall hat and can also be admi­red in the frescoes painted by Tiepolo at Ca' Rezzonico, the Museumof 18th century Venice.

Arlecchino (Harlequin)

It is the most popular mask of the Commedia dell'arte, originating in lower Bergano in the1500s. The character is fraudulent and nosy, not very bright, alwayshungry and always ready to scrounge. The costume is a chequeredjacket and trousers, a felt hat decorated with a rabbit or fox tail and abelt with a batocio, the spatula used to mix polenta. He is an acrobaticcharacter with a tendency to spice up every movement. The mask hasdevil and cat­like traits, with a blunt nose and a bump on his forehead,indicating that his adventures always end op with some sort of brui­se.

Brighel la

He is Harlequin's alter ego. Originating in upperBergamo, he represents the smart servant in the

Commedia dell'arte. His name derives from theverb "brigare", which means to trick. He is an

opportunist, ready to indulge all of his master's wi­shes to his own personal advantage. The costu­

me is white with green stripesresembling a livery and is someti­

mes combined with a cloak and a hatwith a green border. The mask can be

either black or olive green and it has mou­staches. He sings and plays a guitar.

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Balanzone

A comic character originating in Bologna. Heis a lawyer, doctor and sometimes notary, whohas no emotions but thinks he knows every­thing about anything, which often leads tocomical monologues. He is an obeseman who enjoys food, wears a blackcostume with a wide white collarand a notary or a doctor's hat. Hismask is dark and is made in sucha way that his nose and his ridi­culous warts stand out. He is alsoknown as Balordo, Graziano orsimply Dottore.

Indirizzi uti l i

Museo Mondonovo MaschereMaster Guerrino Lovato recreated hisfamous Venetian papier­maché maskworkshop here.Palazzo Corielli ­ Via Cardinal De Lai,2 ­ Malo (Vicenza)Tel: 0445 580600 (Ufficio Culturadel Comune di Malo)Advanced booking required. Freeentrance.

www.maskedart.com

Nicolao Atelier di Stefano NicolaoNicolao created many costumes fortheatres, films and historical parades.The shop has a vast array of periodcostumes complete with all theaccessories that can also be rentedout separately.Cannaregio 2590www.nicolao.com

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Colombina(Columbine)

Loyal companion to Arlecchino,Colombina is a malicious andcunning servant. She is also knownas Arlecchina, Corallina, Riccioli­na, Camilla and Lisetta until shebecame the sophisticated Mario­nette in Goldoni's “The ShrewdWidow”. She wears a patcheddress with an apron and a whitebonnet. She rarely uses a mask,but when she does, it is a darkhalf­mask leaving her mouthuncovered. She speaks in variousdialects, but mostly Venetian andTuscan.

Atelier Pietro LonghiHandmade period costumes, hats, masks and accessoriesfor rent and for sale.San Polo, 2608 ­ Veneziawww.pietrolonghi.com

Banco Lotto n°10 ­ Artigianato dal carcerePrestigious period costumes from the 1500s to the 1900sfor rent or for sale. Any other period upon request.Salizzada Sant’Antonin, Castello 3478 Awww.ilcerchiovenezia.it

La pietra filosofale di Carlo SettiCarlo Setti has been creating paper­maché and leathermasks for over 20 years. He is the only one still makingleather masks in Venice and they are created using anantique techniques which requires the use of particularhorn hammers and box sticks.Frezzeria 1735 ­ San MarcoTel. +39 041 5285885

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San Marco

It is one of the 6 sestieri of Venice,the heart of the city ever since theSerenissima was founded, when itwas called Rivoalto. It borders withCastello and Cannaregio and isconnected to San Polo through theRialto bridge and Dorsoduro throu­gh the Accademia bridge.San Giorgio island is also part of thesestiere. St. Mark's Square and itsBasilica, a splendid example of Go­thic architecture, is right at thecentre together with the Procuratie ­three connected buildings used byProcurators ­ the Libreria Sansovi­niana and the Napoleonic Wing. TheDoge's Palace, a true Venetian Go­thic masterpiece and a symbol of thepower of the Republic, is locatedbetween the Piazzetta and the Molo(Quay). Opposite the bell tower, whi­ch is almost 1,000 m high, stands theClock Tower, with two bronze figuresrepresenting two shepherds strikingthe hours on a bell.

The Republic started toregulate the arts and craftsguilds back in 1182. Arts wereprotected and safeguarded tokeep "popular consent" alive,as this was very important forgood government.The first statute dates back tothe beginning of the 13th centuryand it concerned the tailors.Venetian "sartori", i.e. tailors,had been very popular sincethe Renaissance period, butthey reached the peak of theircreativity between the 1600sand 1700s as the love ofVenetians for Carnival masksflourished. These becameincreasingly popular because

they levelled out all classdivisions and people who woremasks were even allowed tomake fun of the authoritiesand aristocracy.It was in fact in Venice thatMariano Fortuny, a Spanishartist who moved to the city atthe end of the 1800s, becamevery famous and is nowrecognised as the first fashiondesigner ever thanks to its stileand designs that still lookmodern today.At the beginning of the 1900s,his clothes were produced inVenice and sold all overEurope.

The sestieri

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ancient crafts

Tailors

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For most of Venice's guests, allthe rowboats are identified moreor less with the gondolas.Actually, the range of boats iswide: for on­the­water cele­brations, for example, duringthe centuries, real types, calledmargarota, balotina, peota orbissona, have been developed.The ritual of the Serenissima hasalways given a remarkable role toextravagances and entertainment,obviouslyonthewater.Reserved monumental sets, fi­reworks and water processionswereoftenreservedtothemostex­cellentguestsduringofficialvisits.The bissone – long and taperedboats with a flat bottom and ledby a variable number of paddlers­ used to open the processions,adorned with sumptuous deco­rations, adjustable according tothe allegoric representation cho­sen by the client.The fantasy of decorators ­ in so­me cases, even important masterssuch as Tiepolo or Piranesi ­ relie­ved from functional constraints,

could run free from restraints insumptuous and bizarre inventionstoastonishtheaudience.The drawings and the printspreserved at the Museum Correrbear a rich witness of this.Towards the end of the XIXthcentury, though, the entire orga­nization of the celebrations wasno longer reserved exclusively toprivate clients (schools, congre­gations, diplomats or rich or no­ble families) and passed underthe control of the municipality.Unfortunately, today, the cele­bration is limited only to the tra­ditional events, yet alwayslong­awaited by citizens.Even today, ten of these typicalboats, rebuilt about forty yearsago by the master Giovanni Giu­poni, form the water processionof the Historical Boat Race andeach one of them is adorned wi­th an allegoric theme.Still today, they are pitching inbetween the nets of the Arsenalwaiting to sail out on the nextprocession.

Frìto łe venessiane(small Venetian fried doughnuts)

Ingredients for 6 people500 g flour; 2 glasses of milk; 2 eggs;130 g sultanas; 80 g granulatedsugar; 40 g fresh yeast; 2 shot glassesof grappa; 1 untreated lemon; a pinchof powdered cinnamon; a pinch ofsalt; oil for frying; icing sugarPreparation time: 1 hour, 5 hours forleaveningPreparation: Soak sultanas in thegrappa. Melt the yeast in half a glassof lukewarm water. Prepare thedough by mixing flour, eggs, milk,sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon and saltinto a bowl. Add melted yeast andthe sultanas with the grappa.Amalgamate the mixture with awooden spoon until very soft. Coverthe dough and let it rest in a warmplace for 5 hours. Once raised, mixthe ingredients once again and, ifnecessary, add a little bit of milk orwater to make it more fluid. Warmup a pan filled with oil and placedollops of dough into it with a spoon.Distance them enough so that theydo not stick together. Turn themimmediately when brown and, onceready, take them out using askimmer and place them on a papertowel to absorb any excess oil. Rollthem in icing sugar.

traditions

Floating sets

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Assessorato al Turismo

V­Venezia magazineyear 2, special issue - Carnival 201 4

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