Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 · Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27:...

Rassegna Stam pa Olimpias Set t im ana 27: 08-07-2016

Wabi comunicazione d’impresa



SOMMARI O

Olim pias

• I ntervista a Gilberto Benet ton – Corr iere della Sera (04/ 07/ 2016)

Com pet itor

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Set tore

• Corsa all’I ran, guidano Benet ton e Mango • Nike, Esprit , Victor ia’s Secret and LiNing fail toxic- free fashion

ranking • FESPA To Host Digital Text ile Conference I n Milan, I taly • The fashion indust ry t r ies to take responsibility for its pollut ion • Text ile sustainabilit y conference taking shape



Olim pias

Corriere della Sera



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Set tore

Corsa all’Iran, guidano Benetton e Mango 7 LUGLIO 2016

L’Iran promette di diventare il nuovo strategico mercato di sbocco per le aziende italiane della

moda. Secondo i dati Ice, nei primi due mesi del 2016 le importazioni in Iran di prodotti tessili e di

abbigliamento italiani (inclusa la voce ‘pelle e pelliccia’) sono aumentate rispettivamente del 178%

e del 63 per cento.

Al di là dei singoli dati, la principale conferma dell’importanza del Paese nello scacchiere

internazionale arriva in realtà dall’esempio di big come Benetton e Mango che hanno già piantato

le prime bandierine anni fa, e che ora vantano già una rete distributiva ramificata. Come

emerge nell’articolo pubblicato sul prossimo numero di Pambianco Magazine, Benetton è stato,

insieme a Escada e Mango, tra i primi a entrare in Iran. Lo sbarco è avvenuto nel 2006 con

l’apertura di una filiale diretta. A dieci anni di distanza, il gruppo conta su una rete di una trentina di

negozi gestiti da imprenditori locali, che toccano in modo capillare il Paese: non solo Teheran, ma

anche altre importanti città come Mashad, Tabriz, Shiraz e l’isola di Kish Island. Mango, invece, ha

debuttato nel Paese nel 2008 e ora conta sei store nel Paese nelle città di Teheran, Mashhad,

Esfahan, Tabriz e Shiraz che a breve diventeranno nove. “Stiamo progettando l’apertura di altri tre

punti vendita entro la fine di quest’anno o al massimo i primi mesi del prossimo a Teheran e

Mashhad”, ha annunciato l’azienda spagnola di fast fashion.

Tra gli ultimi nomi italiani a entrare nel mercato c’è Camicissima. Il marchio di camiceria che fa

capo al gruppo Fenicia ha inaugurato a marzo il primo negozio monomarca a Teheran, all’interno

del Mall Tiraje 2. Si tratta, spiegano dall’azienda, della prima di una serie di opening che

riguarderanno questo mercato nei prossimi cinque anni: sono ben 20 le aperture programmate, nelle

20 principali città persiane. Anche a livello istituzionale, la moda sta lavorando per rafforzare i

http://www.pambianconews.com/2016/07/07/alla-conquista-delliran-198718/



legami con le associazioni del Paese, con l’obiettivo in particolare di creare una rete di rapporti per

superare le difficoltà burocratiche legate (anche) alle licenze distributive nella regione. Dopo aver

siglato ad aprile unMemorandum of Understanding con Teheran Garmet Union (Tgu), Smi-

Sistema moda Italia, la più importante organizzazione del settore tessile e abbigliamento iraniano

che riunisce al suo interno oltre 20mila imprese aderenti, tornerà a novembre a Teheran per un

nuovo incontro con l’associazione di settore locale.

http://www.pambianconews.com/2016/04/13/in-iran-spunta-anche-la-moda-smi-firma-intesa-194593/



N ike, Espr it , Victor ia ’s Secret and LiN ing fa il tox ic - free fashion rank ing Press release - 5 July, 2016 Ham burg, 5 July 2 0 1 6 – Greenpeace I nternat ional today re leases it s Detox C atw alk , assessing how e ffect ive ly 1 9 m ajor fashion brands a re cleaning up their supply cha ins of tox ic chem icals. I nditex ( w hich ow ns Zara) , H& M and Benet ton are t he on ly three “Avan t - Garde” com panies on t rack t o clean up t heir cha ins as prom ised by 2 0 2 0 , w hile Victor ia ’s Secret and Espr it and sport s bra nds N ike and LiN ing are fa iling to take the necessary steps t ow ards that goal.

“We applaud H&M, Zara and Benet ton for leading the way and set t ing a new standard in toxic free fashion,” said Kirsten Brodde, Head of the Detox My Fashion cam paign at Greenpeace Germ any. “These com panies prove that cleaning up the fashion indust ry is possible – both for large and m edium -sized com panies.”

“Our assessm ent shows that the text ile indust ry as a whole is not doing enough to go toxic-free. 16 out of the 19 brands assessed are stum bling over t ransparency issues or failing to elim inate toxic chem icals; with only three years left they m ust speed up now if they’re to m eet their 2020 deadlines,” said Brodde.

The Detox Catwalk assesses how com m it ted com panies have perform ed against key criteria, including elim inat ing known hazardous chem icals from their products and m anufacturing processes, disclosing pollut ion inform at ion and publishing suppliers’ lists.

While Victoria’s Secret , Esprit , Nike and LiNing scored in the lowest “Faux Pas” category, another 12 Detox com m it ted brands find them selves in the m iddle “Evolut ion Mode” category. These include adidas, Burberry, Levi’s, Prim ark and Pum a which are not banning enough hazardous chem icals and rely on the flawed chem ical list from the indust ry group Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chem icals (ZDHC) . This list is m issing im portant substances like PFCs and solvents like Dim ethylform am ide (DMF) .

Com panies like C&A, Fast Retailing, G-Star, Mango, and Miroglio score higher within the sam e “Evolut ion Mode” group, either for bet ter chem icals m anagem ent or greater supply chain t ransparency.

“A m ajor step forward this year is that com m it ted com panies are t ruly lift ing the veil on their supply chains. Com panies are publishing com plete suppliers’ lists, which shows a t rend for long- term relat ionships with suppliers networks, built on m utual t rust . That is crucial for im plem ent ing the Detox program m e,” said Brodde.

The Greenpeace Detox cam paign dem ands fashion brands com m it to zero discharge of all hazardous chem icals by 2020 and requires their suppliers to disclose the releases of toxic chem icals from their facilit ies to com m unit ies at the site of the water pollut ion.

Tackling water pollut ion is get t ing ever m ore urgent , especially in text ile product ion count ries such as China where m ore than 80 percent of underground water is unsafe for drinking. Four-



fifths of China's water from wells is not safe because of pollut ion, according to an analysis published by the Chinese Water Resources Minist ry this year. China’s text ile indust ry is one of the largest indust r ial water polluters in the count ry.

The corporate act ion has sparked policy change in m anufacturing count ries such as China, where harm ful chem icals used in the text ile sector such as PFCs, nonylphenols and phthalates have been included for regulat ion on the 12th Five-Year Plan for the Prevent ion and Cont rol of Environm ental Risk of Chem icals.



FESPA To Host Digita l Text ile Conference I n Milan, I ta ly

Wednesday, July 06, 2016

Program m e developed with FESPA I talia and leading I talian fashion & text ile associat ions

FESPA will hold its next Digital Text ile Conference on 30 Septem ber 2016 in Milan, I taly. The event

will be delivered with the support of the FESPA I talia Associat ion and in close collaborat ion with

Sistem a Moda I talia, the I talian Fashion and Text ile Federat ion, and Associazione I taliana

Disegnator i Tessili, the I talian Text ile Designers Associat ion, both of which will f ield speakers. The

event is also sponsored by MS I taly.

The one-day conference builds on the success of a ser ies of FESPA- led Digital Text ile Conferences

which have taken place over the course of the last eight years. These conferences have been

designed to help m em bers of FESPA's global speciality pr int ing com m unity realise the growth

opportunit ies in digital pr int ing on text ile subst rates for a range of applicat ions.

FESPA Digital Text ile Conferences offer a focused environm ent in which to learn and network, both

for pr inters already act ive in digital text ile pr int ing and for those st ill seeking to explore the

opportunity. The Septem ber 2016 conference program m e will provide pr int service prov iders with

insights into the diverse m arket segm ents of digital text ile pr int ing, feedback from pr inters who

have successfully entered the sector and technical guidance on how to address the opportunity,

including updates on the latest technology developments in m achinery, software, inks and text iles.

The conference program m e will be delivered in English and I talian. Confirm ed speakers and

panellists so far include Enrico Barboglio (FESPA I talia) ; Duncan MacOwan (FESPA) ; Ron Gilboa

( I nfoTrends) ; Fulvio Alv isi (AI DT) ; Andrea Ferrero (Miroglio Text iles) ; Lorenzo Zot tar (The Color

Soup) ; Gianluca Brenna (Stam per ia di Lipom o) ; Dario Garnero (Stam peria Serica I taliana) and

Andrea Barbiani (MS I taly) . The event will be m oderated by respected I talian indust ry journalist

Paola Bonfant i. The Septem ber 2016 Digital Text ile Conference is co- located with FESPA I talia Day,

the event for m em bers of FESPA's I talian associat ion, enabling m em bers to efficient ly com bine

part icipat ion in both events.

The FESPA Print Census, results of which were published in May 2015, clear ly indicated text ile as

the dom inant growth applicat ion for the com m unit y, with 81% of pr inters at that t im e seeing

growth in this segm ent , the highest of any growth applicat ion. Digital technology was ident ified as

the key enabler, with over 50% of respondents expect ing digitally produced garm ents to becom e an

im portant alternat ive to t radit ional screen pr int ing in the next two years. Text ile pr inters featured

prom inent ly in investm ent plans, with 21% of respondents specifically focussing spend in this area,

supported by 12% planning to acquire therm al t ransfer equipm ent . Decorat ive and indust r ial text ile

applicat ions also featured heavily, with 78% of those surveyed report ing growth in text iles for décor



applicat ions. Text ile subst rates were cont inuing to m ake inroads in the signage and graphics space,

with 67% observ ing sustained growth in soft signage.

FESPA has collated further feedback from it s com m unity since the March 2016 FESPA Digital

exhibit ion in Am sterdam , which incorporated FESPA Text ile. Responses indicate that digital t ext ile

pr int ing is now of im m ediate interest to near ly two- thirds of wide form at pr inters, with 40% already

pr int ing on text ile, and a further 20% act ively interested in enter ing the sector. Fashion and

garm ent pr int ing was indicated as the pr im ary area of interest , followed by inter ior decor and soft

signage.

FESPA CEO Neil Felton com m ents: "A year on from the FESPA Census, pr inters are turning interest

into act ion, as we saw from the t rem endous buzz in the FESPA Text ile halls in Am sterdam a few

m onths ago. Today, digital accounts for only a sm all proport ion of all text ile pr int ing, but this is

forecast to grow substant ially in the years ahead, with est im ates suggest ing that digital could

account for 5% of text ile pr int ing by 2020, up from 2% today. Clear ly that 's a significant

diversificat ion opportunit y for pr inters already invested in digital output technology and support ing

workflows."

The choice of Milan as the locat ion of the next FESPA Digital Text ile Conference reflects the

signif icance of I taly, and the Com o region in part icular, as a cent re of European text ile

m anufactur ing and decorat ing excellence, account ing for 55% of the European digital text ile m arket

and producing m ore than 180 m illion square m etres of digitally pr inted text iles in 2015. (Source:

Fibre2Fashion)

Regist rat ion for the Digital Text ile Conference is open to any pr inter. Full details of the conference

program m e and delegate regist rat ion can be found at www.fespadtc.com .

http://www.fespadtc.com/



The fashion indust ry t r ies to take responsibilit y f or it s pollut ion

By Nancy Szokan June 30

The apparel indust ry — part icularly the inexpensive, runway- to- retail segm ent known as fast fashion — is known to wreak havoc on the environm ent . “The clothing indust ry is the second-largest polluter in the world, second only to the oil indust ry,” high-end retailer Eileen Fisher has fam ously said (and repeated, and writ ten, and tweeted) .

Water is a big part of the problem : Cot ton is a t hirsty plant . Text ile m anufacturers use a lot of water, and the vast am ounts of waste water they discharge are contam inated with bleaches, solvents, acids, alkalis, dyes, inks, resins, softeners and fluorocarbons.

I n it s June 27 issue, Chem ical & Engineering News considers the fashion-pollut ion problem in the context of the “ circular econom y” — “ the process of turning waste into a resource by reusing and recycling products at the end of their useful life.”

Senior business editor Melody M. Bom gardner exam ines the benefit s and lim itat ions of such program s as H&M’s take-back, where custom ers bring old clothes into the store in exchange for discounts on purchases. The com pany has collected m ore than 30,000 m et ric tons of old clothes since 2013, sending m ost of them to secondhand stores or turning them into rags or fiber m aterial for insulat ion. That ’ s a lim ited m arket . The future goal, H&M says, is to t ransform the fiber so it can be rewoven and rem ade into new clothes — but a cost - effect ive way to do that hasn’t been found yet .

Adidas has created a concept shoe using nylon reclaim ed from soda bot t les and from gill nets confiscated from illegal fishing operat ions. (The nylon “had to be cleaned of it s fishy sm ell, then powdered and re-ext ruded,” Bom gardner writes) . I n China, where m ore than half the world’s garm ents are m ade, a com pany called Jinggong form ed a joint venture with a Japanese chem ical m anufacturer t o recycle polyester and sell it back to apparel m akers — but j ust last m onth it reported a $50 m illion loss.

As Bom gardner notes, it ’s fine to t ry to recycle m aterials, but the first challenge the indust ry needs to address is to m ake text ile m anufacturing less pollut ing to begin with. Pollut ion cont rols are hard to m aintain in an indust ry where the supply chains are long and diffuse: Levi’s has m ore than 500 suppliers in Mexico, China, Pakistan, Hait i, Egypt , Poland, Turkey and Bangladesh. “ I t ’s not always easy to understand what goes into the form ulat ion of chem icals you are using,” one official admits.

One program that has earned praise is Levis’s Water< Less jeans process, which takes the water out of stone-washing and com bines m ult iple finishing steps. “The com pany est im ates the changes cut water use by up to 96 percent for som e st yles,” Bom gardner writes. “ I t plans to expand the process to cover 80 percent of it s m anufacturing by 2020.”

Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27: 08-07-2016 · Rassegna Stampa Olimpias Settimana 27:...

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