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SOMMARI O

Olim pias

• Wasatex: intervista effet tuata dell’AD Olimpias Gianni Zanella su Radio 24, nella t rasm issione Moebius di Federico Pedrocchi e Chiara Albicocco

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Set tore

• What ’s Next for Chinese Manufactur ing? • 90th Text ile I nst itute World Conference announces keynote

speakers • Reputat ional r isks concealed in supply chains • Messe Frankfurt sospende fiere in Turchia • Hugo Boss CEO Lahrs to step down



Olim pias

Sabato 2 0 gennaio 2 0 1 6

W asatex: Tessile sostenibile a l 1 0 0 %

Un proget to europeo per la sostenibilità dell' indust r ia tessile raggiunge il 100% di

r isparm io energet ico e idr ico. I ntervista all’Amminist ratore Delegato di Olimpias Group

Gianni Zanella .

Link alla t rasm issione:

ht tp: / / www.radio24.ilsole24ore.com/ programma/ moebius/ puntate

http://www.radio24.ilsole24ore.com/programma/moebius/puntate



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SETTORE

What’s Next for Chinese Manufacturing? by Lyndsay McGregor

Posted on February 22, 2016

Does Made in China have a future?

That was the underlying quest ion of a Sourcing at Magic sem inar last Tuesday, t it led “China:

What ’s Next?” and the panelists present responded with a resounding yes—despite also

discussing the m any ways in which the odds are stacked against it .

“How long is the future?” quipped Steve Mostofsky, president and chief execut ive officer of

investm ent firm TTI Global Resources. “ I n the near to m edium term I do not think that China

will exit the apparel and text ile indust ry.”

“ I think China is going to be in the gam e for a long t im e,” agreed Colin I srael of m anagem ent

consultant firm Walter Wilhelm Associates and form er m anagem ent director of Asia for Black

Diam ond. “ [ The Chinese] have a huge resource pool, very sophist icated m anufacturing and a

ton of capabilit y. We’re not prepared to take that som ewhere else. We haven’t seen the qualit y

in other em erging m arkets in Asia and we don’t have the capabilit y in the United States to

bring it all back.”

Chen Zhirong, vice director at China’s cham ber of com m erce for the im port and export of

text iles, said he doesn’t foresee a big shift happening in the next five to 10 years. “From

https://sourcingjournalonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/ChinaFactory2-16.jpg



designing and m anufacturing to logist ics and t r im m ings, you cannot find those in any other

count r ies,” he said.

I ndeed, panel m oderator Nate Herm an, the Am erican Apparel and Footwear Assocat ion’s

(AAFA) vice president of internat ional t rade, pointed out that 41.8% of all U.S. apparel im ports

in 2015 cam e from China. “ I t ’s the num ber one supplier of clothes and shoes to the U.S.

m arket ,” he said.

With that being said, problem s have been m ount ing in recent years, from rising wages and

worker turnover t o an ant i- corrupt ion cam paign, am ong others—and it ’s start ing to show in

the num bers. Newly released data showed Chinese exports fell 11.2% in January.

According to I srael, China’s huge pool of qualified people includes a lot of operators who are no

longer interested in m anual labor and there are far fewer workers than there were 10 to 20

years ago. “ I t used to be the way to get off the farm and m ake a future. Now they’re m ore

interested in instant grat ificat ion,” he said. “Every year we get the reports and forecasts of

labor rates and that ’s what always burns our m argin because suddenly all of our suppliers have

had to raise their rates.”

“Labor is longer a com m odity,” Mostofsky echoed, not ing that the only way for China’s

factories to cont inue at t ract ing and retaining workers is to adopt good corporate social

responsibilit y policies. “ [ Today’s Chinese workers] do not have the expectat ions [ of their

parents] that they are responsible for the next generat ion’s success. They expect that

success,” he said, adding, “The posit ive to that is the abilit y to sell into China.”

But r ising wages aren’t the only thing that ’s driving up costs.

“We decided a year and a half ago to shut down all the [ hard goods] m anufacturing that we

did ourselves [ in China] and bring it back to the U.S.,” I srael said, not ing that between free

t rade zone policy, cit y policy, provincial policy and nat ional policy, it was becom ing too tough

to predict what the governm ent would want . “Not being able to understand an obscure,

abst ract concept of a rule that we had to com ply with was m addening for us and it cost us a lot

of m oney. We decided it was just easier to m ake things in the U.S.”

While his firm is st ill m aking a lot of soft goods on the ground in China, he calls the count ry “a

m oving target .”

I n addit ion, when Chinese authorit ies shut down factories for days (som et im es weeks) because

of pollut ion, it pushes back orders.

“That ’s a headache for everyone,” Zhirong adm it ted, quickly adding, “For shirt ing, it ’s not a

problem . For dyeing, it could be a problem .”

“We have to rem em ber that alm ost all sewing factories have to have product that had been

dyed som ewhere along the line, and if we end up with a supply chain that shut down we could

end up with a very significant issue for the indust ry,” Mostofsky countered.

And while the wealth of Chinese consum ers cont inues to increase and a recent report from

Boston Consult ing Group said spending looks set to reach $6.5 t r illion by 2020, the count ry

sells a lot of knockoffs.



“How do you enter the Chinese m arket when the biggest e-com m erce site—Taobao—is

probably selling a counterfeit version of it?” Mostofsky asked, adding, “Over 200 cit ies will

have over a m illion people in j ust over two years. How do you approach that m arket? I s it a

single m arket or 200 different m arkets? Will the second or third com pany to go in selling a

part icular type of product get the sam e bang for their buck as the first com pany?” What does that m ean going forward?

And yet , m ore opportunit ies to sell to Chinese consum ers is also incent ive to keep

m anufacturing local in a lot of cases. Not to m ent ion, while m anufacturers are increasingly

invest ing in cut -and-sew facilit ies in Vietnam and Bangladesh, a lot of raw m aterials are st ill

sourced from China.

“We’re m anufacturing the sam e product for the sam e brands both in China and outside and if

the product is going to look the sam e in the store, the raw m aterials have to be the sam e. For

now it ’s st r ict ly Chinese raw m aterials, from the packaging down to the yarn,” Mostofsky

shared.

“The m ore com m odit ized fabrics are definitely com ing out of China,” I srael reiterated. “ I t ’s not

as labor intensive so there’s not as m uch pressure there to m ove it . You’re not chasing the

needle as m uch with the raw m aterials as you are with cut t ing and sewing.”



23rd February 2016, Poznan

90th Textile Institute World Conference announces keynote speakers 0 comment

The 90th Textile Institute World Conference, which will be held in Poznan this April, will feature a rich, carefully selected selection of keynote speakers, according to organisers. They will be covering the vital industry topics on trends, trade, innovation and design, as well as the resourceful benefits of incorporating natural fibres into textiles. Hosted by the Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants, the conference aims to establish international interdisciplinary cooperation in various fields of science, research and economy that are linked by textile technology in its broadest meaning. The event will this year take place under the central theme Textiles: Inseparable from the human environment. Dr Terry Townsend Dr Terry Townsend, a consultant on commodity issues, especially those involving the cotton industry, will present on the topic The role of innovation in ensuring the future of natural fibres. He serves as the Vice Chair of the Discover Natural Fibre Initiative (DNFI), Chair of the Steering Committee of the International Task Force on Cotton Testing Methods, and Chair of the Fund Raising Subcommittee of the International Cotton Researchers Association. Dr Terry Townsend served as executive director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) from 1999 to 2013. He worked at the US Department of Agriculture for five years in the 1980s analysing the US cotton industry and editing a magazine devoted to a cross-section of agricultural issues. He joined the ICAC in 1987 as statistician and was promoted to executive director in 1999. He has a PhD in Agricultural and Resource Economics from Oregon State University in the US. Professor Yi, Li Prof Yi, Li is a full professor and chair of Textile Science and Engineering in the School of Materials, the University of Manchester. He is a Life Fellow of Royal Society of Art, Commerce and Manufacturing and International Biographical Association and Fellow of The Textile Institute, and adjunct professors of a number of universities in China and a member of several professional bodies. By securing over £10 million research funding and obtaining support from government funding bodies and industry in the past ten years, he established the Textile Bioengineering Framework to conduct systematic research in textile thermal bioengineering, biomechanical engineering, sensory bioengineering and biomedical engineering. He will discuss Setting the patterns of future textiles.

http://www.innovationintextiles.com/industry-talk/90th-textile-institute-world-conference-announces-keynote-speakers/#comments



Lutz Walter Lutz Walter is Head of the R&D, Innovation and Projects Department of Euratex, the European Apparel and Textile Confederation based in Brussels. At the event, he will present on Textile research driving innovation across high added value applications and markets. Since he joined Euratex in 1999, he has been coordinator of various European collaborative research and networking projects. His further responsibilities at Euratex include the monitoring of EU research policies and programmes, which are of interest for the textile/clothing sector as well as the development of strategies and position papers on the future of textile and clothing research and innovation in Europe. Andrzej Garlikowski Andrzej Garlikowski has been President of SAFILIN (Poland) the branch of French company Safilin, which is one of the biggest bast fibre spinning mills in Europe. He is an active member of CELC - The European Confederation of Linen and Hemp as well as Polish Chamber of Flax and Hemp. At the Conference, Andrzej Garlikowski will present on the topic Economic potential and future trends of Europen Flax fibres. Safilin is well known for the production and sale of its pure or blended linen or hemp yarns. One of the important assets of Safilin is its experience and business relations, developed over the years, with the providers of the raw material, i.e. scotched flax fibre. The company's strategic goal is achieving very high quality of yarn. Safilin produces yarns for luxury natural woven and knitted textiles, as well as for textiles for technical applications, including roving and special low twist yarns for use as reinforcement in composite production. Professor Izabella Krucinska Izabella Krucinska has been employed as a full professor at the Lodz University of Technology, Poland since 2003. In a period of 2002-2008 served as the Dean of the Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design. Currently she is holding the position of the Head of the Department of Material and Commodity Sciences and Textile Metrology. Her scientific research is oriented to the textile metrology and nonwoven technology. She developed the accredited laboratory LabTex (PCA 1421) for inspection the quality of textiles. She also established the laboratory for textile physics and nonwoven technology in Poland, supported by the European found, called Centre of advanced technologies for the human friendly textiles - Pro Humano Tex. Izabella Krucinska will be discussing Characteristics of biodegradable and compostable polyester nonwovens at the Textile Institute World Conference.



Messe Frankfurt sospende fiere in Turchia 22 FEBBRAIO 2016

Messe Frankfurt ha annullato i due saloni Texw orld e Apparel sourcing previst i dal 23 al

25 m arzo a I stanbul. Un r invio che la società fierist ica spiega con la delicata situazione polit ica

at tualm ente vissuta dalla Turchia, m a che è stato determ inato anche dal crollo del num ero di

espositori cinesi che ne rappresentano il cuore dell’offerta. “ I l business cinese

dell’abbigliam ento si sta concent rando sem pre più sui suoi m ercat i principali Asia, Europa e

Stat i Unit i, r iducendo le at t ività in Turchia” , fanno sapere dalla società fierist ica.

“Seguiam o da vicino le evoluzioni in divenire e sarem o di nuovo at t ivi con il nost ro portafoglio

tessile in questo m ercato non appena vi saranno le condizioni giuste – dichiara Olaf Schm idt ,

vicepresidente per il set tore tessile dell’organizzatore tedesco - . La nost ra convinzione nel

valore del m ercato turco è ancora forte e siam o cert i che presto le condizioni vi cam bieranno

posit ivam ente” . La prossim a edizione delle due fiere è annunciata per il 19-21 ot tobre.

I l salone del tessile e quello del sourcing di abbigliam ento erano stat i organizzat i per la prim a

volta a I stanbul nell’autunno 2014. Alt re due edizioni vi avevano fat to seguito. L’ult im a

sessione, svoltasi nel novem bre 2015, aveva r iunito 127 aziende esposit r ici, provenient i da 8

nazioni, e aveva at t rat t o 5.132 visitatori di 49 nazionalità diverse all’interno del Lütfi Kırdar

I nternat ional Convent ion and Exhibit ion Cent re.

L’annuncio della sospensione arr iva dopo l’edizione parigina, la principale, delle due fiere

tenutasi a Parigi, dal 15 al 18 febbraio, al cent ro fierist ico del Bourget . La precedente edizione

invernale aveva at t irato quasi 14mila professionist i. I due appuntam ent i possono inolt re

contare su una versione newyorchese, che ha r iunito 310 espositori e 4m ila visitatori a New

York a fine gennaio.

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