leonardo sg#9 - ENG Maquetación 1 22/02/13 09:11 Página 110Photos: ANTONIO CASTELLANI ©Chiriotti...

leonardo sg#9 - ENG_Maquetación 1 22/02/13 09:11 Página 110

111 so good..

LEONARDO DI CARLOLEONARDO DI CARLO HAS ALWAYS HAD PASTRY INSIDE HIS MIND, AND SINCE A FEWMONTHS AGO ALSO IN A MONUMENTAL BOOK TITLED “TRADIZIONE IN EVOLUZIONE.ARTE E SCIENCIA IN PASTICCERIA”, PUBLISHED BY CHIRIOTTI. And we wanted to ask this kind Italian mas-ter chef about an emblematic dessert, one of those specialties without which pastry would not be complete – THAT IS, THEBABA (AND ITS ‘BROTHER’ THE SAVARIN), A REAL WONDERBORN FROM THE CREATIVITY, TALENT AND TECHNIQUES OFTHE FATHERS OF ARTISANAL PASTRY. Indeed, making it possible for a dough to be able toimbibe such a generous amount of syrup and rum without losing its firm, solid structure is somewhat magic. Di Carlo explains how to prepa-re the best baba/savarin, and shares two interesting uses with us, as a plated dessert and in a verrine.

Photos: ANTONIO CASTELLANI ©Chir iotti Editor i & Di Car lo Leonardo (except photos recipes)

“The best baba is the one my colleaguesfrom Napoli and Salerno make”


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rums. Industrial rum is the one resulting from the distilla-

tion of molasses, whereas agricultural rum is obtained

from fresh cane juice.

Also, a base of syrup –enriched with orange peel, cinna-

mon, star anise or vanilla beans– is obviously important.

How is the dough prevented from over-soaking and

crumbling during the soaking process? And why is

this process so delicate?

This process may seem easy, but is highly important and

delicate. Some experience is needed. Once the scented

syrup has been made, the liquor is added during the coo-

ling process (at 45 to 50ºC) and a slight, premature eva-

poration of the volatile aromas takes place.

Depending on the quantity and whether the kneading is

direct (immediate) or indirect (with initial pre-kneading),

the liquid is added hot (45-50ºC) for dry products, or

warm (35-40ºC) for the just baked ones.

The syrup should not have a high concentration of sugar,

as it would not easily reach the core of the product. Or

on the contrary, if too little concentrated, it would quickly

run through the product and result in leaks. For this rea-

son, honey is an excellent moisturizing ingredient and

prevents the top of the dessert from drying excessively.

When soaked, the piece should slightly be pressed down

and left to drain the excess syrup on a rack.

The piece can then be decorated with apricot glaze, and

a topped with some chantilly and fresh fruit.

If a highly rum-scented baba is desired, its surface can be

gently drizzled with some rum (15-20% vol.)

Is baba a too sugary dessert? What kind and per-

centage of sugar do you use?

The percentage of sugar in the dough is quite low, bet-

ween 2.5 and 3.5%, which stops any excessive coloring

during the cooking. But the real sweetening power

Can you briefly explain what a savarin and a baba

are? What is the difference?

A baba is a fermented dough which has the shape of a

drinking glass and resembles a mushroom. And so is the

savarin, although this latter has the shape of a doughnut.

The dough used to make a baba is often used to make

a savarin, but only a maximum of 20% raisins is used in

the first kneading. It can also include a small amount of

milk or cream, whereas a baba has only eggs.

Why is using the very best flour so important for

this dessert? What is its task?

Good flour is essential, as it is the main ingredient which

will allow the baba to imbibe all the liquid while keeping

its structure. The quality of flour will depend on the pro-

teins it contains and how well balanced they are betwe-

en each other. Generally speaking, the higher the protein

content is (14.5%), the better the quality of the flour. And

the connection between the two acting proteins (gliadin

= extensibility and elasticity; and glutenin = tenacity) will

determine how airy the structure will be after being coo-

ked.

During the kneading, and thanks to the liquids present in

the recipe, a gluten mesh in formed which gives the

dough body. This will allow the carbon dioxide bubbles to

develop and expand during the cooking process, as well

as the oxygenation of the enzymes of the yeast during

the fermentation.

If we use any flour poorer in proteins, the result will be

a less open-crumb product, with less power of absorp-

tion of liquids and fats.

What do we give the baba to imbibe? What liquor

suits it best?

The most widely used is rum, either light or dark. We can

name two big groups: industrial rums and agricultural

Leonardo di Carlo

“I prefer the savarin with raisins because I find the combination of raisins

and honey really pleasant. Besides, it remains tasty for a longer time.”


ulting from the distilla-

tural rum is obtained

th orange peel, cinna-

obviously important.

m over-soaking and

process? And why is

highly important and

ed. Once the scented

added during the coo-

slight, premature eva-

es place.

hether the kneading is

h initial pre-kneading),

for dry products, or

d ones.

oncentration of sugar,

re of the product. Or

trated, it would quickly

t in leaks. For this rea-

urizing ingredient and

om drying excessively.

ghtly be pressed down

on a rack.

with apricot glaze, and

fresh fruit.

red, its surface can be

-20% vol.)

What kind and per-

ough is quite low, bet-

any excessive coloring

al sweetening power


114

Leonardo di Carlo


115 so good..

comes from the syrup in the process of soaking, and this

is why this specialty is not that sweet.

What are the main obstacles when making a baba

and/or savarin?

The most difficult step is to make the dough itself, as

before any fat is added, a proper gluten mesh should

have been formed so as to prevent this fat from coming

off, and thus making the dough lose its shape and struc-

ture. It is also important the kind of yeast used –either

direct or indirect–, as each of them produces a structure

with varying degrees of smoothness.

Nowadays, when sugar and alcohol are badly loo-

ked at almost in a fanatic way, does one need to be

brave to defend the good qualities of a good baba

or savarin? What is the argument?

The baba is a dessert which was born rich in liquor.

However, it is true that a trend towards eating products

with less sugar or alcohol content has been observed

lately. There is always the chance to adapt, even in the

case of children, obviously without any liquor, for exam-

ple with some fresh or exotic fruit syrups. It is also very

interesting as a plated dessert, or even served in a verri-

ne.

Where did you taste the best baba or savarin you

remember? What was it like?

To be honest, the best baba is the one my colleagues and

friends from Napoli and surroundings, and also from

Salerno, make. They are real masters of babas, and when

I am with them, I can’t stop eating them.

In your recently published book, you offer different

recipes about this specialty: regular, French, with

cocoa, with acacia honey, with biga and the sava-

rin with raisins. What is your favorite and why?

By far, I prefer the savarin with raisins because I find the

combination of raisins and honey really pleasant. Besides,

it remains tasty for a longer time.

“Modern pastry has no meaning without science. It is like a boat without

a rudder.”

Nearly 200 year ago, the great French jurist and

gourmet Brillat-Savarin (after whom this dessert is

named) published his book ‘The Physiology of

Taste’, in which the culinary art was linked to

science, especially physics, chemistry and even

medicine. In your latest book, you have had the

chance to confirm the importance of science in

pastry, haven’t you?

Modern pastry has no meaning without science. It is like

a boat without a rudder. Without science, we don’t know

where we are heading for, and above all we are unable

to explain why certain things happen.

Nowadays, every professional has to know the ingre-

dients, the techniques for their correct processing, the

chemistry and physics necessary to understand the

transformations that can be obtained, but it is also essen-

tial to understand that our work is able to convey emo-

tions.


116

Leonardo di Carlo

savarin dough1000 g flour w32045 g acacia honey30 g brewer’s yeast200 g milk

650 g whole egg

300 g butter, softened1 u vanilla bean 1 fine lemon zest18 g fine salt

Place the first four ingredients in a mixer and knead. Add the eggsand then gradually the butter mixed with the salt and spices.Continue to knead to a soft, smooth texture.Leave to ferment for one hour approximately at 25ºC.Transfer the mixture into butter-greased molds about 1/3 full.Allow to ferment until the mold is totally full.Bake at 180-200ºC for about 12 minutes.Store in a drying oven.

syrup for baba1 l water

350 g sugar50 g acacia honey1 u cinnamon stick1 u lemon zest1 u vanilla bean

140 g rum, 70 vol.

Combine the water, sugar, honey and aromas and bring to a boil.Leave to cool and add the rum.

ivoire chocolate and almond whipped cream 400 g whipping cream, 35% fat85 g acacia honey1 u vanilla bean12 g fine lemon zest

150 g Ivoire white couverture, chopped50 g cocoa butter, chopped

330 g almond paste 50%800 g whipping cream, 35% fat

Boil the first 4 ingredients together and slowly pour over thecocoa butter and couverture. Mix, add the almond paste graduallyand finally the cream. Continue to mix for two minutes, cover andleave to set in the refrigerator overnight. If necessary, whip in amixer until stabilized.

senga sengana strawberry compote200 g water500 g sugar

1250 g Senga Sengana strawberry35 g lemon juice

Cook the sugar and water to 140º, add the strawberries cut intosmall dice, gently combine and cook again for 15 minutes.Finally add the lemon juice and leave to cool. Use as a sauce forthe dessert.

MONTAGE

PLACE THE STRAWBERRY SAUCE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PLATE,

SOAK THE SAVARIN IN THE RUM SYRUP, THEN LEAVE TO DRAIN AND

PLACE ON THE PLATE. TOP WITH THE CHOCOLATE AND ALMOND

CREAM AND GARNISH WITH SOME FRESH FRUIT.


SAVARIN MY OWN WAY

ped cream

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ur over the d paste gradually

nutes, cover and ary, whip in a

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berries cut into minutes. as a sauce for


118

TRADITIONAL BUT…


119 so good..

baba dough1000 g high gluten flour W40070 g sugar 30 g brewer’s yeast

900 g whole egg

350 g butter, softened1 u vanilla bean

fine lemon zest 18 g fine salt

Place the first three ingredients in a mixer. Then add the eggs andknead until the gluten is formed. Gradually add the butter mixedwith the salt and spices, and continue to knead to a soft, smoothand elastic texture.Leave to ferment for about one hour at 25ºC.Transfer the mixture into butter-greased molds about 1/3 full.Allow to ferment until the mold is totally full.Bake at 180-200ºC for about 12 minutes.Store in a drying oven.

mint syrup for soaking1 l water

200 g cane sugar1 u vanilla bean25 g fresh mint150 g Malibu, 21% vol.

Finely grind the sugar and mint with the help of a food processor.Combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil.Leave to cool, add the Malibu and strain.

peppermint syrup for soaking1.5 l water400 g cane sugar1 u vanilla bean

12 u peppermint essential oil225 g Malibu 21% vol.

Make a syrup with the first three ingredients, leave to cool andcombine with the essential oil and liquor.

spiced pineapple gelée700 g fresh pineapple juice, centrifuged40 g acacia honey2 u cinnamon sticks1 u vanilla bean4 g cardamom seeds3 star anise4 g coriander

Combine all the ingredients, bring to a boil and strain. Leave tocool and store in refrigerator.

MONTAGE

PLACE A BABA SOAKED IN MINT SYRUP (EITHER OF THE PROPOSED

ABOVE) ON THE BOTTOM OF A VERRINE. POUR THE PINEAPPLE GELÉE,

THE RASPBERRY PIECES AND LEAVE TO SET IN REFRIGERATOR FOR

ABOUT TWO HOURS. FINISH WITH A VANILLA CHANTILLY AND FRESH

LEMON ZEST.


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