Caring for Alberta’s Rural Landscape

Manure and Pasture Managementfor Horse Owners

Written By:

Dr. Lori K. Warren and Christine Sweet

AcknowledgementsContributors: Cathie Erichsen-Arychuk , GordonHutton, Janna Wowk

Special thanks to Dr. Mohamed Amrani, Dr. VernBaron, Roger Bryan, Les Burwash, Dr. Donna Chaw,Tim Deitzler, Lorine Kelly, Grant Lastiwka, KenLewis, Peter Llewellyn, Michelle McKinnon, VirginiaNelson, Barry Olson, Chris Perry, Wally Sawchuk,Shayne Steffen, Trevor Wallace.

Published by:

Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural DevelopmentInformation Packaging Centre7000 – 113 Street, Edmonton, AlbertaCanada T6H 5T6

Production Editor: Chris KaulbarsGraphic Designer: John GillmoreElectronic Publishing Operator: Carolyn Boechler

Copyright © 2003.Her Majesty the Queen in Right of Alberta.All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or byany means, electronic, mechanical photocopying,recording, or otherwise without written permissionfrom the Information Packaging Centre, AlbertaAgriculture, Food and Rural Development.

Copies of this publication may be obtained from:

Publications OfficeAlberta Agriculture, Food and Rural DevelopmentPhone: 1-800-292-5697 (toll free in Canada) (780) 427-0391

orsee our website <www.agric.gov.ab.ca> forinformation on other publications, videos andCD-Roms.

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Taking Care of YourHorses by TakingCare of Your LandAlberta is home to more than300,000 horses, representing 35 per cent of allthe horses in Canada. As the popularity ofhorses continues to rise, so too does the numberof small farms and acreages, and boardingstables. As a result, the amount of landdedicated to housing and feeding horsescontinues to increase.

The land management decisions you makeaffect your property, and they can also affectadjoining lands. By taking the initiative tobecome a responsible steward of the land, youwill be a positive example in your community.

Whether you are boarding at a stable, own anacreage, or house horses on a farm or ranch,specific environmental land managementpractices can benefit your horse’s health andwell-being. The decisions you make for housingand pasturing your horses have a major effecton the land and your horse’s productivity.

This guide has been compiled to provide youwith options and references to help you managethe manure pile, maintain and improve yourpastures, and provide a healthy and beautifulpiece of land to live and ride on.

Take note of the tips and beneficialmanagement practices detailed throughout thispublication.

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The EnvironmentallyFriendly HorseOur environment contains a variety ofplants, animals and aquatic life. Each specieshas a unique role within the environment, and,as a result, each relies on the other for survival.Maintaining such biodiversity is essential forcreating a healthy environment that is capableof sustaining all species that live within it. Themore diverse the ecosystem, the better it is ableto respond to changes or stresses, such as floods,drought, pests and disease.

You can help create and maintain a sustainableenvironment by modifying some of your landand horse management practices. The benefitsof ecosystem management will be reflected inmore productive pastures, clean water, fertilesoils, and better overall health of your horses.

This chapter outlines and describes some keyareas where your horse management practicesmay affect the environment and what you can doto minimize these effects.

Protect Your WaterClean water is vital for the good health of youand your horses. Your land and horsemanagement practices can influence the qualityof water available not only to you, but also toyour neighbours. Even if you do not live near astream or lake, you can affect water quality.

Nature’s Drain Pipe: TheWatershedWater initiates from springs, rainfall orsnowmelt, and it runs downhill or undergrounduntil it eventually reaches the ocean. An area ofland that catches rain and snow and then drainsor seeps into surface waters (i.e. creeks, streams,rivers, lakes or wetlands) or groundwater iscalled a watershed.

Essentially, we all live in a watershed, whichmeans everyone has an affect on water quality.As a landowner, you have a responsibility tomaintain or improve the quality of the waterthat leaves your property.

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The WatershedApproachMany Alberta communities are taking a“Watershed Approach” towards environmentalland stewardship. This approach takes intoconsideration both ground and surface waterflow within a particular watershed. If you areinterested in learning more about yourwatershed, the publication Getting to Know YourLocal Watershed (Agdex 576-8) is available fromAlberta Agriculture.

Nature’s Water Filter:Riparian AreasRiparian refers to the land immediatelysurrounding waterways and other surface water.Riparian areas are defined as the zone ofvegetation alongside creeks, streams, rivers,lakes and wetlands.

Riparian areas support high levels ofbiodiversity. The combination of deep rich soils,water and lush vegetation provides food, shelterand breeding grounds for many plants, animalsand aquatic life. In fact, approximately 80 percent of the province’s wildlife use riparian areasfor all or part of their life cycle.

Have you ever followed surface runoff as itflows across your land? Where does it go? Doesit flow through your corrals, pasture or manurepile? Surface and groundwater can becontaminated if runoff is allowed to run throughcorrals, riding rings and other areas eitherwhere manure is not regularly removed orwhere manure is stored (Figure 1).

Tips for MaintainingWater QualityDownstream• install rain gutters and roof runoff systems

on barns and covered arenas

• create diversion berms to divert stormrunoff around corrals and otherconfinement areas

• create catch basins for contaminatedrunoff

Figure 1. Prevent water pollution by diverting runoff from rain and snowmelt around manurestorage areas, corrals, riding rings or other areas manure accumulates.

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In addition to housing a diverse population ofplants and animals, healthy riparian areasprovide the following benefits:

• buffer the negative effects of floods and windsby reducing soil erosion

• filter sediments and nutrients from runoffbefore they enter water sources

• riparian vegetation provides shading in thesummer months and helps prevent ice damagein the winter

• reduce drought effects by holding and slowlyreleasing available water

While riparian areas are highly diverse andfunction to improve water flow and quality, theyare also very sensitive and can easily bedisturbed or destroyed by grazing animals(Figure 2). If you allow your horses to grazeriparian areas, watch for signs that they arecausing damage. Signs of damage to riparianareas include:

• reduction in number of saplings (i.e. youngtrees and shrubs)

• reduction in plant height resulting invegetation cover that resembles a mowedlawn

• evidence of pugging (hoof tracks left in softsoil) and hummocking (soil that has beenpushed up by pugging)

Riparian ManagementTips• Use alternative watering sources to keep your

horses away from the water’s edge and reducetrampling of the vegetation.

• Provide salt, supplemental feed and analternative water source away from riparianareas. These practices will decrease the amountof time your horses spend in the riparian areaand will reduce the risk of water contamination.

• Fence off access to riparian areas with eitherpermanent or temporary fencing. This barriercreates a vegetative buffer zone between thewater’s edge and the pasture, which provides anatural filter for contaminated pasture runoff.

• If you allow your horses to graze riparian areas,turn them out for short periods to preventoveruse and trampling of the area. One optionis to include the riparian area in your rotationalgrazing program. For more information ongrazing management, refer to the chapter“Better Management of Your Horse’s Pasture”in this manual.

• Avoid grazing riparian areas during the springwhen the vegetation is more vulnerable todamage.

• For additional information on riparian areamanagement, refer to the publication, “Caringfor the Green Zone: Riparian Areas: A User’sGuide to Health” (ISBN No. 0-7785-2305-5)available from the Public Lands Branch ofAlberta Sustainable Resource Development.

Figure 2. Riparian areas are highly diverse and fragile. They can easily be damaged by grazinganimals. Use riparian areas for short durations to reduce grazing impact.

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to enhance soil structure and protect soil fromerosion. Maintaining a healthy vegetative coverin your pasture will protect the soil from botherosion and compaction.

Tips for Preventing SoilErosion and CompactionPlant a Shelter BeltA shelter belt is a row of trees or tall shrubs thatact to capture blowing soil. Trees with a deeproot system will bind soil aggregates better thanshallow-rooted trees. Agriculture and Agri-FoodCanada, Prairie Farm RehabilitationAdministration (PFRA), has a shelter beltprogram. For information on planting suitableshelter belts, contact your local PFRA office, orvisit their website: www.agr.ca/pfra

Understand the TopographyUnderstand the landscape of your property andbe aware of the drainage patterns on your landas well as on neighbouring lands. Protect areasof high runoff with vegetation cover. In somecases, it may be necessary to remove horsesfrom an area entirely if the area is susceptible towater erosion.

Adjust Stocking RatesDo not turn out more horses than your pasturecan support (i.e. overstocking) and do not allowhorses to graze plants down to the soil (i.e.overgrazing). Overstocking and overgrazing notonly compact soil and cause erosion, they alsoseverely reduce your pasture productivity.

Practice Rotational GrazingSeason-long grazing can reduce plant vigour andplant cover, resulting in a decline in pastureproductivity. Cross-fence large pastures intosmaller paddocks and rotate your horsesbetween the paddocks. This type of grazingmanagement gives each pasture a periodic restfrom grazing and gives plants a chance to grow.For additional information on grazing systems,refer to the chapter “Better Management ofYour Horse’s Pasture” in this manual.

Alter Grazing PatternsChange the location of your water source, feedbunks and salt blocks regularly to reduce theformation of dirt trails and to minimize theeffect on areas where horses loiter.

Healthy Soil = HealthyPlantsPlants obtain the nutrients they need for growthfrom the soil. Therefore, to have a productivepasture, you need to maintain healthy soil.

Bare patches in your pasture and other areasthat lack vegetative cover are vulnerable to soilerosion by wind or water (Figure 3). Erosionremoves valuable topsoil, which is where mostsoil nutrients are found. Therefore, erosion canseverely deplete soil fertility levels and starvepasture plants of nutrients needed for growth.

The health of your pasture can also be adverselyaffected by soil compaction. Soil will oftenbecome compacted in high traffic areas, such asnear gates, along fencelines and on paths to andfrom water sources. There is also a risk of soilcompaction in areas where horses loiterthroughout the day, such as around feed bunks,water tanks and in shady areas. Overuse of suchareas destroys plant cover and compacts the soil,reducing air and water infiltration as well asincreasing the risk of soil erosion.

While the health of the soil is important to thehealth of a plant, the reverse is also true: ahealthy plant is essential for a healthy soil. Theroots of plants aerate and provide organicmatter and nutrients to the soil. Roots also act

Figure 3. Bare patches leave your pasture vulnerable to soil erosionand weeds.

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Weed InvasionsDoes your pasture appear to have more weedsthan lush pasture grasses? A sure sign of stressto the land is the appearance of invasive weedscoupled with a reduction in the regrowth ofdesirable vegetation.

Weeds invade areas that have been denuded ofvegetation because bare soil provides anecological niche to exploit. The increase inavailable nutrients, water and sunlight as aresult of a reduction in plant canopy coverprovides an ideal environment for weeds toestablish. Areas in your pasture that should bechecked for weeds frequently include handlingareas, watering sites, along fencelines andaround winter feeding areas. Weeds also invadepastures that have been overgrazed.

You may not realize that you have invasiveweeds. Some weed species produce attractiveflowers that are pleasant to look at(Figures 4 and 5). However, weeds areconsidered undesirable plants with limited or nograzing value. Some weeds may even be harmfulif eaten by your horse.

Riding in theback-country

Trail riding inAlberta’s beautifuland breathtakingcountryside is apopular getaway forhorse owners.However, many areasacross the provinceare extremelysensitive to hooftread, grazing andcontamination frommanure.

Whether you are athome or on holidayswith your horses, it isimportant to beenvironmentallyresponsible. Thefollowing are tips toreduce your impactwhile enjoying theback-country:

• camp in designatedstaging areas only

• take only weed-freefeed for yourhorses

• take out what youbring in (i.e. allgarbage, sparefeed, manure, etc.)

• stay on the trails

• avoid riding nearthe edge of streambanks, becausetrail wear can makestream banksunstable and canlead to erosionduring times ofhigh runoff

Figure 4. Purple loosestrife was introduced toAlberta as a garden ornamental because of itsattractive rose-purple flowers. Purple loosestrifechokes out waterways and the native vegetation inriparian areas.

Leaving weed infestations unchecked willdecrease the overall productivity of yourpasture, reducing the amount of nutritiousforage available to your horse.

Weed eradication can also be expensive.Pastures may have to be taken out of productionto allow time for an intense weed eradicationprogram. Loss of a pasture means the addedexpense of supplying your horse withsupplemental feed, which can be particularlyhard on the pocketbook during times of droughtor feed shortages. And depending on the weedspecies to be sprayed and the size of theaffected area, herbicide cost must be factored into the overall expense.

Early detection and early treatment is the bestapproach for preventing large scale weedinfestations. For more information on weedidentification and eradication, see the AlbertaAgriculture publications Weeds of the Prairies(Agdex 640-4) and Crop Protection(Agdex 606-1).

Figure 5. Yellow toadflax is an aggressiveinvader of pasture land. Toadflax has anextensive root system that makes it difficult andcostly to erradicate.

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Be a Good NeighbourAs a horse owner, your land managementdecisions not only affect your property, but alsothe adjoining landscape. It is your responsibility,then, to keep updated on municipal bylaws toavoid an issue from arising among you, yourneighbours and your local government.

Taking the initiative to become a goodneighbour can prevent potential tension in thecommunity. Beneficial environmental practiceswill decrease unwanted odours and pests andwill reduce the spread of weed species. Bydemonstrating responsible agricultural practiceswith your land and horses, you can helpeveryone enjoy rural Alberta.

To maintain good neighbour relations:

• maintain healthy pastures and riparian areas

• control weed populations

• properly store and dispose of manure

• properly store and remove garbage

TheBottomLine• Protect water quality by

installing rain gutters onbuildings, diverting storm

runoff away from corrals and manure storagesites and limiting your horse’s access toriparian areas.

• Prevent soil erosion and compaction bymaintaining productive pastures andperiodically rotating feeding and wateringsites.

• Detect and treat weed invasions early beforethey spread and reduce pasture quality.

• Set an example in your community and in theprovince by practicing responsible landstewardship.

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Manure Storage andHandling

pathogens and organic particles into the watercycle via surface runoff or leach intogroundwater. In addition to the health andenvironmental concerns listed above, “MountManure” is unsightly.

Regardless of the method of disposal, manurewill have to be stored for some time, so propermanure storage facilities are important.Designing a storage facility and disposal planare essential in any livestock operation. Onceproper manure storage and handling facilitieshave been designed and constructed, they canbe used yearly until the manure is disposed of.

On average, an 1100 pound (500 kg)horse will produce 31 pounds (14 kg) of fecesand 2 to 3 gallons (8-11 litres) of urine per day,plus bedding. The amount of manure that canbuild up over one year from just one horse issubstantial. If you are not careful with manurestorage and handling, “Mount Manure” canbecome a serious management problem.

A poorly managed manure pile can harbourintestinal parasites, provide a breeding groundfor flies and insects and produce objectionableodours. Runoff from improperly stored manurecan quickly become a potential environmentalcontaminate, because it can carry nutrients,

Conquer Mount Manure by having an appropriate manure storage and disposal plan.

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Step 1: Site SelectionSelecting an appropriate location for storingmanure is an important first step in the designand construction process. Be aware that AOPAlegislation provides both permanent and shortterm storage standards that apply to alllivestock production, including horses. Anyonewho handles and stores manure must considersetbacks, water table and flooding areas (Referto AOPA Standards to see what applies to you).

Whether a formal storage facility is planned ora simple free-standing manure pile, severalfactors must be considered when determiningthe location of a storage site:

Protect water sourcesIn Alberta, manure cannot be stored within 330feet (100 meters) of any spring or water well orwithin 100 feet (30 meters) of any open body ofwater. Contamination of surface water,groundwater and any common body of watermust be avoided (Figure 6).

TopographyManure storage facilities should be locatedwhere there is minimal runoff potential toreduce the risk of surface water contamination.Depressed areas, where water tends to pool,should also be avoided for the same reason.

AccessibilityEnsure there is ample room to manoeuvremachinery around the storage area.

AestheticsIf possible, locate manure storage facilities outof sight of and downwind from public places andneighbouring residences.

The AgriculturalOperation PracticesAct (AOPA)As of January 1, 2002, amendments to theAgricultural Operation Practices Act (AOPA)brought major changes to livestockmanagement in the province. AOPA isAlberta’s legislation governing new andexpanding confined feeding operations(CFO’s) and is administered and enforcedby the Natural Resources ConservationBoard. AOPA presents managementstandards for manure storage and handling,nutrient management and record keeping.For more information on AOPA and how itpertains to your operation, the AgriculturalOperation Practices Act and associatedRegulations are posted on AlbertaAgriculture, Food and Rural Development’sweb site at www.agric.gov.ab.ca/navigation/livestock/cfo/index.html; click on Acts andRegulations under Categories. The Act andRegulations can also be printed from theweb site. Questions can be directed to:cfoinfo@gov.ab.ca.

Figure 6. Unmanaged manure piles attract weeds and have the potential to contaminate surface orgroundwater.

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Step 2: Design andLayoutThe design of any manure storage and handlingfacility will depend on the following factors:

1) Volume of manure producedThe number of horses, the type of feed andthe type and amount of bedding used willdetermine the amount of manure producedin each operation. The density of horsemanure (urine + feces) is 63 lb/ft3

(or 1 tonne/m3). So, 51 pounds of manurewould occupy 0.81 cubic feet or 22 litres. Theaddition of bedding can easily double ortriple this volume. The volume may also varydepending on the management practices.

2) Length of storageLength of storage will depend on theintended use of the manure. For example, ifthe manure is to be used as a fertilizer,storage facilities must be able to store all themanure until the appropriate time ofapplication, which can be up to six months ormore. As a general rule, the longer theintended storage time, the larger the storagefacility required.

Large horse boarding operations (10 or morehorses) with insufficient land base availablefor the use of all the waste produced wouldbenefit from a permanent storage facility.Conversely, smaller operations (less then 10horses) with sufficient land base available formanure application may store manure as afree-standing manure pile, rather thanbuilding a formal storage facility.

Example:To determine the daily volume of wasteproduced:

a) Multiply 0.92 ft3 (26 litres) times the numberof horses on your farm. Remember to adjustupwards if bedding is included. (e.g. 1 partmanure: 1 part bedding = 1.8 ft3/horse/day.)

b) Then multiply the daily volume times thenumber of days the manure is to be stored.

c) Take the cubed root of the total storagevolume required and work from there todetermine suitable dimensions.

Figure 7. Calculation tip: count the number ofwheelbarrow loads collected each day, and multiplyby the estimated volume of each load to determinethe volume of waste produced.

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Step 3: ConstructionOnce the location of the manure storage areahas been selected and a design determined,construction can begin. The type of materialused in the construction is an importantconsideration. Choosing appropriate flooringmaterial should not be overlooked, as properflooring will prevent contaminants fromleaching into groundwater. A concrete slab orwell-compacted soils high in clay, but low insand or gravel, are suitable flooring materials.Concrete, tightly fitted wood planks or cinderblocks can be used for constructing walls.Storage facilities that have walls will contain themanure pile and will facilitate the use ofequipment necessary to handle the manure.

Constructing a roof or covering the manure pilewith a tarpaulin or heavy plastic will reducerunoff and seepage from the storage area.Leaving the storage area open may be suitablein some low precipitation regions of Alberta,but this approach is not recommended.Covering the pile will reduce the risk ofproducing contaminated runoff. If, however,contaminated runoff becomes an issue:

• collect and contain the runoff by constructinga catch basin

• filter through a serpentine grassed waterway,grassed or treed filter strip

• disperse on cropland

Manure StorageOptions• three-walled structure with roof or tarp

cover (Figure 8)

• covered or enclosed truck bed or manurespreader (Figure 9)

• covered dumpsters

• covered, free-standing manure piles

Figure 9.

Figure 8. Three-walled structure contains the manure and can easily be covered with a tarp.

Keep ittogether

Manure needs to bekept together topreventcontaminates fromthe manure fromleaching intogroundwater. Free-standing manurepiles should beconstructed on top ofa concrete pad orheavy clay soil. Inaddition, considercovering the pilewith a tarp andberming the storagearea to divert cleanrunoff and to containcontaminated runoff.

Alberta Agriculture,Food and RuralDevelopment(AAFRD) has severalplans available forconstructing suitablemanure storage andhandling facilities.For moreinformation, pleasecontact the AgtechCentre, 3000 CollegeDrive South,Lethbridge, AB,T1K 1L6.

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TheBottomLine• Horses produce large

amounts of manure.

• Site selection of a manurestorage facility is important and must complywith the Agricultural Operation Practices Act(AOPA) standards and regulations.

• The design and construction of a manurestorage facility depends on the volume ofmanure produced and the storage period.

• Storage should be considered a temporarysolution for handling manure, becauseeventually, the manure needs to be disposedof.

• Manure storage facility construction mustcomply with the Agricultural OperationPractices Act.

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Managing HorseManure byComposting

Recipe for SuccessfulCompostingLike animals, the microorganisms responsiblefor composting need food, water and air tosurvive. The goal of composting is to provide theideal environment and the proper balance ofnutrients needed by the microorganisms toencourage their growth. Components of this“recipe” for successful composting include anumber of key ingredients:

1) Availability of airMicroorganisms need air (oxygen) to be ableto decompose manure properly. To providespace for air to move in and out of the pile,manure should be combined with bulkiermaterials, such as wood shavings or strawbedding mucked from a stall, or even lawnclippings, leaves or hay. Infusing air into thepile is also accomplished by mixing andturning the pile frequently or by insertingperforated PVC pipes into the pile.

Why Compost?Many horse owners and urban horse facilities donot have access to enough land to make gooduse of raw manure by spreading. If you are oneof these individuals, composting providesanother option for managing horse manure.

Manure starts to decompose as soon as it hitsthe ground. Microorganisms in the soil,including bacteria, fungi, insects, worms andother creatures, break down the organiccomponents of manure and bedding into smallerparticles (Figure 10). In doing so, they recyclenutrients back into the soil, while releasingcarbon dioxide, water and heat.

Although manure can decompose on its own,composting is a method of speeding up thisnatural process. The breakdown of manure andbedding occurs much more rapidly in thecompost pile because the environment can bemade ideal for the microbes to do their work.The end result of composting is a dark, crumbly,earthy-smelling product similar to potting soil.

Composting is of particular interest to horseowners because, if it is done properly,composting kills parasites eggs and larvae anddestroys weed seeds in horse waste. Therefore,if the compost is later spread on pastures, thepossibility of re-infection is reduced.Composting also reduces the odor of themanure and can decrease the size or volume ofthe pile by 50 per cent. Finished compost can beused to improve soil quality or serve as a mulchor growing media for plant nurseries, gardeners,mushroom growers and worm farms.

Benefits ofcomposting

• Kills intestinalparasite eggs andlarvae

• Destroys weedseeds

• Reduces flies byeliminating theirbreeding ground

• Reduces odor

• Reduces volume ofmanure

• Serves as anexcellent soilamendment

• Produces anattractive productto use, give away,or sell to others

Figure 10. Soil microorganisms break downmanure and bedding to form compost.

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2) Moisture levelMicroorganisms grow best with the moisturelevel at around 50 per cent. The averagemoisture content of horse manure is 70 percent, but the manure may be closer to theideal moisture content when it is combinedwith soiled bedding.

3) Particle sizeSmall particles decompose faster becausethey have more surface area for microbialactivity. If you own a shredder or tub grinder,consider processing straw bedding, hay andother coarse materials before adding them tothe compost pile.

4) TemperatureAs microorganisms decompose manure andbedding, their body heat causes thetemperature in the pile to rise. A hot piledecays much faster than a cold pile. Greaterheat is necessary to kill weed seeds andparasites. Effective composting takes placearound temperatures of 55 to 65°C(Figure 11).

5) Pile SizeThe size of the pile influences whether thepile will hold heat. Small piles are usuallycolder and dry out faster. A pile of at leastone cubic meter (3.5 x 3.5 x 3.5 feet) is bigenough for year-round composting, even inthe winter cold.

6) NutrientsMicrobes use carbon, nitrogen and othernutrients from materials added to the pile tosupport their own growth. Nitrogen is themain nutrient found in manure; carbon is themain element found in bedding material. Thechallenge is to ensure the proper proportionsof carbon and nitrogen needed for successfulcomposting.

The carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N) of amaterial is an estimate of the relativeamounts of these two elements. A ratio ofabout 30:1 is ideal for composting. Table 2shows the approximate ratios for somematerials commonly added to compost piles.

A mixture of one part manure with two partsbedding (by volume) usually gives areasonable mix for rapid composting.However, the amount and type of beddingcan alter the C:N ratio and influence themanagement needed for successfulcomposting (refer to the sidebar “BeddingTips.”)

Figure 11. Effective composting takes place attemperatures of 55 to 65°C (130 to 150°F).

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Bedding Tips• Use less bedding…

Large quantities of bedding mixed withmanure can slow the composting processby contributing excess carbon andupsetting the ideal C:N ratio. Beconservative with the amount of beddingin your stalls and remove only soiledmaterial when cleaning. Installing rubberstall mats or rubber pavers can reduce theamount of bedding needed whilemaintaining the comfort of stalled horses.

• If you use straw bedding…The porous, spongy consistency of strawusually provides close to the right amountof free air space within the pile. However,the large particle size might delay thebreakdown of straw. If a shredder orchipper is available, consider processingstraw bedding before adding it to thecompost pile. The addition of nitrogen tothe compost pile may be necessary if largeamounts of bedding are used.

• If you use wood chips or sawdustbedding…Wood bedding products contain very littlenitrogen and a lot of carbon. Therefore, itmay be necessary to add supplementalnitrogen to facilitate proper composting,particularly when large amounts ofbedding are used. Wood chips are lesslikely to compact the pile, compared tofiner sawdust. If you bed on sawdust, youmay need to add other bulking materialsto improve aeration. The advantagesawdust has over straw and wood chips is asmaller particle size. In fact, if managedproperly, sawdust will compost faster thancoarser bedding materials.

Locating Your CompostPileThe first step in setting up a composting systemis choosing a location. When choosing alocation, consider the following:

1. Select a fairly flat site

2. Avoid low lying areasPooled water, especially around manure andcompost, will cause odour and fly problemsand will increase the risk for runoff tocontaminate water sources.

3. Locate the compost pile away fromgroundwater and natural open bodies ofwaterIn Alberta, compost sites cannot residewithin 100 meters (330 feet) of any spring orwell and must be located at least 30 meters(100 feet) from any open body of water, suchas a stream, lake, river or slough. For moreinformation on guidelines and regulations,refer to the chapter on “Manure Storage andHandling” in this manual.

4. Locate the pile where water can beaccessed if necessaryWater may be needed to maintain theappropriate moisture content of the compostpile and will need to be located convenientlyin the unlikely event of a combustion fire.

5. Be considerate of your neighborsA well-managed pile will not have a foul odoror attract flies. Nonetheless, try to locateyour bins out of view and downwind fromneighbors.

6. Allow room to maneuver equipment tobuild and turn the pile

Choosing a CompostingSystemThere are several ways to design an on-farmcomposting system, and no single one isappropriate for all sizes and types of equinefacilities. You can tailor your composting systemto meet your needs depending on how manyhorses you have, the space and equipmentavailable and how intensively you plan tomanage the pile.

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Free-standing Compost PilesMaking compost does not necessarily require aspecial structure to house the materials. Asimple, free-standing pile can be turned into aneffective composting system and works well forone- or two-horse operations (Figure 12). Thepile grows as manure and bedding arecontinually added to the top or sides of themass. When the pile gets too big, additionalpiles can easily be created.

Frequent turning of the pile will hasten thecomposting process and help reduce parasitesand weed seeds. However, many people prefer aless labor-intensive approach of building a newpile once or twice a year, turning the pile two orthree times, then letting it take a year or so tomature. In this case, parasites and weed seedsmay not be adequately destroyed.

Free-standing piles are usually the least costlyoption for composting because they do notrequire special structures or equipment.However, free-standing piles will require morespace and careful consideration of location toprevent leaching and water contamination.

Windrow CompostingManure and bedding can also be formed intolong, horizontal piles, or windrows, forcomposting (Figure 13). The windrow pile istypically about 1.5 to 2 meters tall (5 to 6 feet)and 2 to 3 meters wide (6 to 10 feet). Materialsare added at the end of the pile, allowing thepile to grow to any length.

Figure 12. Free-standing compost pile.

These piles are generally turned with front-endloaders or specially equipped tractors, althoughthey can also be turned by hand. Windrowcomposting works well for people with largeherds and lots of space.

Figure 13. Composting manure in windrows.

19

Basiccomponentsof allcompostingsystems:

1. Adequate space forstorage andcomposting.

2. A set of two ormore bins or free-standing piles largeenough to maintainelevated internaltemperatures.

3. A mechanism forturning the piles ormoving thecompost from binto bin, such as apitchfork or a smallfront-end loader.

4. A water faucet orpump/water tankcombo and a spraynozzle.

Multiple Bin Composting SystemCompared to stacking manure in a pile orwindrow, decomposition is best and space isused more efficiently if the materials are placedin bins or some type of enclosure (Figure 14).

At least two bins are recommended for smalloperations that support just a few horses, or forthose with no mechanical equipment. In thisscenario, the first bin is filled to capacity andperiodically turned and mixed with a shovel orpitchfork to promote composting. When thefirst bin is full, materials can be added to thesecond bin.

Larger facilities or those equipped with a smalltractor or front-end loader, should considerbuilding three or more bins. A series of binsallows the containment of waste at differentstages of the composting process.

In a three-bin system, manure and bedding arepiled into bin one until it is full. The material isthen shifted into bin two for holding andcomposting. Meanwhile, bin one can be refilled.When bin one is full again, materials in bin twoare shifted into bin three, and materials in binone are shifted into bin two. Shifting materialfrom one bin to the next serves as part of theturning and mixing process. Ideally, by the timebin one is full again, materials in bin three willbe completely composted.

The size of the bins will be dictated by severalfactors:

• the amount of manure and bedding produced

• how long the materials will remain in the bin

• the equipment, if any, the bins will have toaccommodate

Ideally, your bins should be large enough toaccommodate all the waste materialsaccumulated for several months of composting.Refer to the sidebar “Determining Bin Size.”

The materials needed for the construction ofsuitable bins will depend on the size of binsdesired and whether they need to accommodatemechanical equipment. Bins constructed from2 x 6" (untreated) boards and heavy-duty postswill hold up the best. Bins with a wooden floorwith small spaces between boards that allow airto move from underneath the pile performbetter than bins built directly on the ground. Aconcrete floor and strong walls are handy forlarger bins that will accommodate mechanicalequipment. A gravel access is convenient forloading or using a wheelbarrow to bring themanure to the heap.

Covering the compost bins with a permanentroof, plastic sheet or tarp is recommended.Protecting the pile from rainwater and snow willhelp you regulate the proper moisture level bypreventing piles from becoming too wet in thewinter or too dry in the summer. Covering willalso prevent rain and snow melt from leachingcontaminants from the pile and creating apollution hazard.

Figure 14. Multiple bin composting system.

20

Determining Bin Size• Calculate the amount of manure and bedding produced (see Tables 3 and 4 for Example Calculations)

An average 500 kg (1100 lb) horse produces 22 kg (0.81 ft3) of manure plus bedding each day. If soiledbedding is combined with manure, the total volume generated each day can easily double(44 L or 1.6 ft3) or triple (66 L or 2.4 ft3). Alternatively, you can count the number of wheelbarrow loadsgenerated from your operation each day and estimate the capacity of each load. Keep in mind these arejust estimates and may increase or decrease depending on the volume of stall waste produced.

• Determine how long the materials will remain in the binThe use of only one or two bins usually means the materials will remain in the bins for longer periods(three to six months). When using three or more bins, each bin should provide enough space to housematerial generated for a two-month period. The volume of material in each bin will decrease over timeas materials degrade, so subsequent bins may be slightly smaller if necessary.

• Plan for extra bin space if your operation will house more horses in the future.

What can youcompost?

• Manure mixed withbedding from stalls

• Manure picked upfrom pastures,corrals, arenas andtrails

• Old, moldy orunwanted hay

• Grass clippings

• Leaves

• Householdvegetable wastes

Things tokeep out ofthe compostpile:

• Weeds

• Baling wire ortwine

• Syringes andneedles

• Soda cans andother trash

• Shoes, nails andother metals

• Plastic

• Cedar wood(resistant to decay)

Managing Your Compost PileComposting does demand some time and attention. Management of the compost pile can be keptsimple or be quite sophisticated and should be customized to fit your specific situation and goals.Remember that some trial and error is an essential part of developing a successful compostingsystem.

Building the PileA minimum pile size of one cubic meter (3.5 x 3.5 x 3.5 ft) is needed to achieve compostingtemperature. The pile can be bigger and will obviously be dictated by the type of composting systemyou choose and the space available. The minimum pile size may be created all at once or amassedover several days, and the pile allowed to grow from there.

Add manure and bedding directly to the compost pile as you clean your horse stalls. This is also thebest time to add water if needed. Manure picked up from riding rings, arenas, trails and corrals canalso be added directly to the pile. Avoid picking up too much dirt along with the manure, and keepall trash out of the pile.

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21

Wintercompostingtips:

• Composting canstill take place inthe center of largepiles in the winter.

• Composting willoccur at a slowerrate in the winter(four to fivemonths, comparedto two to threemonths in thesummer). Makesure you haveadequate storagespace for stallwaste.

• Keep piles large(at least one cubicmeter) to maintainadequate heat forcomposting.

• Turn piles lessfrequently in thecold wintermonths. Turningpiles duringextremely coldweather may resultin a slowerrebound back tocompostingtemperatures or atotal shutdown ofthe wholecompostingprocess.

• If you are notalreadycomposting, winteris not the best timeto begin. Instead,establish yourcomposting systemwhen the weatherwarms up in thespring.

but it also ensures that weed seeds and parasitesin the cooler sections are destroyed by bringingthem into the center to “cook.”

Depending on your composting system and theamount of manure generated, the pile can bemixed and turned by hand with a pitchfork ormechanically with a small front-end loader.

Frequent turning accelerates the compostingprocess; the more it is turned, the faster the pilebreaks down. Turning may be done on a weeklyor monthly basis, or turning may be based onthe measured temperature of the pile. If usingtemperature as a guide, you should turn pileswhen temperatures fall to 43°C or when theyrise above 65°C.

Alternatively, your composting system mightdictate your turning schedule. For example, ifyou have a multiple bin system, turning mightoccur as you shift the heap from one bin to thenext.

Weather conditions might affect your turningschedule. The pile will take longer to reheat inthe winter, so you may not want to turn thecompost as often. Monitoring the temperatureof the pile will be helpful in deciding when toturn the pile during the cold winter months inAlberta.

Monitoring the Temperature of thePileYou should monitor the temperature of the pileweekly to ensure active composting is takingplace. Effective composting temperatures rangefrom 55 to 65°C. The center of a properly madeheap should reach such temperatures within aweek during the summer. In cooler seasons, itmay take up to a month to reach effectivecomposting temperatures.

To destroy parasites and weed seeds,temperatures of 55 to 65°C should bemaintained for at least 21 days. Piles that aretoo cool (below 55°C) break down more slowlyand do not kill parasites or weed seeds. Pilesthat are too hot (above 71°C) kill thecomposting microorganisms and result in anextremely foul-smelling pile.

A temperature probe can be used to eliminatethe guesswork. Long-stemmed compostthermometers are available at most hardwareand garden supply stores (Figure 11).

Turning and Mixing the PileThe most active site of composting takes placein the hotter center of the pile. Therefore, thepile needs to be turned and mixed to expose thematerial from the cooler, outer edges to the hotcenter. Turning not only helps aerate the pile,

22

of bedding used, the weather and if the compostis protected from rainfall. The more dry beddingincluded in the mixture or the warmer and dryerthe weather, the more likely it is that you willhave to add water. Make it a habit to check themoisture content when you turn the pile, orcheck more frequently during hot, windysummer days.

Can the Compost PileCatch Fire?Despite the high temperatures that developin a compost pile, the pile will only ignite ifthe hot zone is next to a dry zone. So, it isimportant to keep the pile mixed and at theproper moisture level (50 per cent).

Adding Extra Nitrogen to the PileThe more bedding you use, the more likely it isthat you will need to add supplemental nitrogen.Bedding contributes primarily carbon to thecompost pile. The use of too much beddingoffsets the ideal C:N ratio and slows thecomposting process.

Because of the high C:N ratio of wood products,supplemental nitrogen may also need to beadded to the pile if you use shavings or sawdustbedding.

Commercial fertilizers, such as urea, ammoniumnitrate or another high-nitrogen fertilizer, canbe added to the pile to provide supplementalnitrogen. Ideally, nitrogen should be sprinkledon each wheelbarrow load of manure dumpedon the pile each day. Alternatively, nitrogen canbe mixed into the pile when it is turned.

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As an alternative to frequent turning, PVCpipes can be inserted into the center of thecompost pile like chimneys. Drilling severalholes (1 cm or ½-inch in diameter) along eachpipe (at approximately 15 cm or 6-inchintervals) will allow air to enter the pilepassively.

Occasional turning of the pile may still beneeded to get manure from the outside into thecenter, so the heat from the composting processcan destroy parasites and weed seeds. It maytake longer to compost a pile aerated by PVCpipes compared to a pile that is actively mixedon a regular basis.

Adding Water to the PileAll materials in the pile must be moist, but notsoaking wet. The moisture level can be gaugedby squeezing a handful of compost. Compostthat contains an adequate amount of moisturewill feel like a freshly wrung out sponge. If waterruns out of the pile or if you can squeeze waterfrom a handful of compost, it is too wet. In thiscase, you will need to add straw, tree leaves,shredded bark or old hay to dry the pile. If thecompost does not feel moist, you need to addwater.

One of the biggest mistakes people make isputting a lot of water on the pile all at once,then ignoring the pile. Adding a little watereach day is much better than letting the pile getdusty and dry, then trying to re-wet it back tothe 50 per cent range. Consider watering yourcompost with a garden hose when you turn thepile. Or, an easy way to add water is just to hosedown the manure in your wheelbarrow beforeyou dump it into the pile.

The actual amount of water needed will varysubstantially depending on the kind and amount

How long willit take tocompost?

Depending on theamount of materialsand how diligent thehorse owner is inturning the compostpile, composting cantake several months.A well-managed pilewill break down thefastest—as quickly as60 days—althoughthe average time is120 days. Piles thatdo not have thecorrect mix or are notmaintained breakdown much moreslowly, taking 6 to 12months or more. Inthe winter, properlymanaged piles mayrequire 4 to 5 monthsto compost.

23

When adding supplemental nitrogen, a goodrule of thumb is 1.5 kg of nitrogen per tonne ofstall waste (3 lbs per ton). A ton of stall waste isequivalent to a pile approximately the size of anaverage washing machine. Table 5 lists severaldifferent sources of supplemental nitrogen andthe amounts to add per tonne (or ton) of stallwaste or the amount per horse per day.

Putting Compost to UseAfter you have successfully produced compost,you need to think about what you will do with it.In many cases, compost is a more attractiveproduct than raw manure, making it easier togive away or sell to others if you cannot use ityourself.

Properly prepared compost has many uses:

• Soil Amendment. Although compost containsnutrients, its greatest benefit is in improvingsoil characteristics. Composted horse manurecan be used to increase the organic mattercontent and the water and nutrient-holdingcapacity of sandy and heavy clay soils.

• Growth Media. Finished compost can be usedby plant nurseries as potting soil and is anexcellent media for the production ofmushrooms and fish worms.

• Mulch. Compost can be a valuable mulchingmaterial for garden and landscape plants. Andif used as mulch, the compost need not becompletely finished.

• Slow-release Fertilizer. When applied tolawns, cropland or pastures, finished compostcan supply a modest amount of nutrients thatwill be released slowly over time. Sincecompost is already broken down, it does notdeplete the soil of nitrogen needed by plantsto grow. Nitrogen depletion can occur whenuncomposted horse waste (or unfinishedcompost) are spread on fields. And becausecomposting kills parasites and weed seeds, therisk of re-infection is reduced. Additionalfertilization may be necessary to obtainacceptable growth yields when compost isapplied as fertilizer.

If applying finished compost to cropland(Figure 15) or pastures, it should be appliedonly at recommended rates and to plants andsoils that can use the nutrients. For moreinformation on testing your soil and compost, aswell as guidelines for spreading compost onpastures and cropland, refer to the chapter“Managing Manure by Spreading on Croplandor Pasture” in this manual.

Figure 15. Harrowing horse manure compostdistributes the nutrients more evenly across thefield.

24

Is it Ready?• Finished Compost

When manure and bedding are completelydegraded, they are termed “finished”compost. Finished compost will not heat upanymore and has an earthy smell and acrumbly soil-like texture. Properly producedcompost will also be less likely to containparasites and weed seeds. Because of thischaracteristic, finished compost can be safelyused in gardens or applied to cropland orpastures.

• Unfinished CompostDecomposition will take place even if acompost pile is ignored after it has been built,but at a slower rate. Decay will be slower,cooler and less effective at killing weed seedsand pathogens. Manure and bedding that arenot allowed to decompose fully are termed“unfinished” compost.

TheBottomLine• Composting provides a

viable option for managinghorse manure.

• Properly prepared compost has many uses asa soil amendment, growing media, mulch orslow-release fertilizer.

• Compost may be a more attractive endproduct, compared to uncomposted stallwaste, making it easier to give away or sell.

• Composting kills intestinal parasite eggs andlarvae and also destroys weed seeds, reducingthe risk of re-infection if compost is spread onpastures.

• On average, a well-managed pile can becomposted in two to three months in thesummer or four to six months in the winter.

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25

Managing Manureby Spreading onCropland or PastureUsing manure as a fertilizer byspreading on cropland or pasture may be oneoption for managing horse manure if you havesufficient land available (see sidebar, “Do YouHave Enough Land?”)

Manure contains nitrogen, phosphorus,potassium, sulfur and various micronutrients,which are all required for proper plant growth(Table 7). Horse manure is also high in organicmatter, which can enhance soil quality byimproving soil structure, increasing water andnutrient-holding capacity and reducingsusceptibility to erosion.

Horse manure is an excellent fertilizer forpastures and field crops when applied in thecorrect amount and at the optimum time(Figure 16). When to apply the manure and howmuch to apply is depends on several factors:

• physical, chemical and biologicalcharacteristics of the soil

• composition of the manure

• the type of crop or pasture where the manurewill be spread

Do you haveenough land?

The amount of landneeded to takeadvantage of thefertilizer value ofmanure depends onthe type of crop orpasture to be grown,targeted yield andsoil analyses . Forexample, the manureproduced by one totwo horses in oneyear would besuitable for meetingthe nitrogenrequirements ofapproximately oneacre of pastureland.Over-application ofmanure will affectplant growth andincrease the risk ofwater contaminationfrom runoff.

The amount of landneeded for manureapplication can becalculated based onthe nutrientcomposition of themanure and thefertilizerrecommendations forthe specific crop. Forcrop-specific fertilizerrecommendations,please refer toAlberta Agriculture’swebsite(www.agric.gov.ab.ca)or the AlbertaAgriculturepublications: AlbertaFertilizer Guide(Agdex 541-1) andCrop Nutrition andFertilizerRequirements(Agdex 540-1).

Figure 16. Three options to manage the manureon your farm.Courtesy University of Minnesota Extension Service:www.extension.umn.edu

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26

Step 1: Sample Your SoilTo take full advantage of any fertilizer, includingmanure, you should first sample your soil andhave it analyzed. A soil test provides the basisfor deciding the amount of manure required tocorrect any physical, chemical or biologicaldeficiency present in the soil.

Manureanyone?

If you do not havethe land base tomake effective use ofall the manure andstall waste yourhorses produce, aneighbor or localfarmer may beinterested in usingthe manure forfertilizer on theirland. Even thoughyou will not actuallybe spreading themanure, AOPAregulatation appliesto anyone who usesor transfers morethan 300 tonnes ofmanure annually (theamount produced byapproximately 35horses or more). Youshould keep recordsof who removes themanure from yourfarm and how muchmanure they remove.

You can either take the soil samples yourself(see “Soil Sampling Tips”) or hire anagricultural consultant who specializes in soilsampling to collect samples for you (Figure 17).The soil must be sampled correctly to obtainuseful lab results that will lead to appropriatemanure application recommendations.

Soil samples can be tested for the following:

• pH (a measure of soil alkalinity or acidity)

• organic matter

• nitrate-nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,calcium and magnesium

• micronutrients (zinc, copper, iron andmanganese)

• electrical conductivity (a measure of totalsalts)

• texture (per cent sand, silt and clay)

At the very least, routine soil analysis shouldinclude extractable nitrogen, phosphorus andelectrical conductivity. The determination ofelectrical conductivity is particularly importantif the land base has a long history of manureapplication. Additional tests can be performedif soil fertility levels or specific nutrients are aconcern.

Results from a soil test are typically in the formof nitrogen (N), phosphate (as P2O5), potassium(as K2O) and lime (to correct soil acidity) andshould include fertilizer recommendations.

Figure 17. Soil sampling.

27

Soil Sampling Tips1. Know your soils

Soil varies by topography (i.e. slope andaspect), the type of vegetation present, pastland use, and the type and amount of fertilizerapplied in recent years. As a result, thecharacteristics of the soil may vary greatly,even in the same field. To obtain the mostaccurate soil profile, a composite number ofsoil samples should be obtained from eachdistinct soil region within the field.

2. The 20-to-30 RuleYou should obtain 20 to 30 samples from eachdifferent soil type within each field (i.e. collectone batch of soil samples from the hill topsand a separate batch of samples from the baseof the hills. When you are collecting thesamples, be sure you are collecting them fromthe same crop cover (i.e. sample the pasturefield, and separately sample the hay field.)Samples can be collected using a stainlesssteel or plastic soil tube or auger, or a cleangarden spade. Be careful not to use rustytools, because the sample may becomecontaminated with iron.

3. Sample to cultivation depthDifferent nutrients are active within differentlayers of the soil. To obtain a completenutrient profile, you should collect samplesfrom at least three depths: 0 to 6 inches (0 to15 cm); 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) and 12 to24 inches (30 to 60 cm). You may want toconsult with a local soil laboratory or fertilizercompany before sampling.

4. Mix similar samples in a plastic pailSoil samples should be placed in clean plasticpails, according to soil type and sample depth,for mixing. Be sure to mix the soils thoroughly,crushing lumps in the process. Do not usegalvanized steel or brass containers, becausethe sample may become contaminated withiron or zinc, respectively.

5. Package, label and submitPlace approximately one pound (0.5 kg) ofeach composite soil mix in a clean plastic bag,label the bag, complete the appropriatepaperwork and submit the sample to a soiltesting laboratory (see “Finding aLaboratory”). A separate soil sample shouldbe submitted for each soil type and depth.

Step 2: Sample theManureYou also need to sample and analyze themanure you intend to spread on your croplandor pasture. By understanding what nutrients thesoil needs and what nutrients are available inthe manure, you will be better able to accuratelymatch the manure application to the needs ofyour pasture plants or field crop.

You should obtain manure samples as close tothe intended application time as possible. Thecomposition of manure can change with storage,so analysis just before spreading will yield themost accurate composition of the manure to beapplied. Refer to “Manure Sampling Tips” for adetailed outline on how to collect manuresamples properly.

Manure samples should be tested for thefollowing:

• total nitrogen (N)

• total phosphorus (P)

• total potassium (K)

• ammonium-nitrogen (NH4+-N)

• moisture content

Finding alaboratory

Local soil testing andmanure testinglaboratories can befound in the YellowPages of your phonebook under “SoilTesting,” “AnalyticalLaboratories” or“EnvironmentalProducts andServices.”

28

Manure Sampling Tips1. Obtain a representative sample

Collect manure samples from six to eightdifferent locations throughout the manurestack, using a pitchfork or shovel. Manureshould be collected from the center of thestack, as well as near the outside of the pile.If the outer layer of the stack has become dryand hard, remove the crusty surface andsample deeper into the stack.

2. Thoroughly mix the manure samplesOnce all the samples have been collected,place the manure on a clean surface formixing. With a shovel continuously scoop theoutside of the pile to the center of the pile toensure thorough mixing of the samples. Chopthe larger manure particles into smallerpieces with a pitchfork or shovel.

3. Collect a minimum of three sub-samplesTo collect samples for analysis, place a one-gallon resealable freezer bag, turned insideout, over one hand and grab a handful ofmanure. With your free hand, turn thefreezer bag right side out over the sample.Seal the bag and place it in another freezerbag to prevent leaks. Repeat this processtwice more to obtain three representativesub-samples. Properly label each bag andfreeze immediately to minimize odors andprevent nutrient loss.

4. The 24-Hour RuleManure samples should be sent to alaboratory for analysis as quickly as possibleto avoid nutrient loss. Ideally, samples shouldbe analyzed within 24 hours of collection.

Step 3: CalculatingManure ApplicationRatesApplying the correct amount of manure to yourpasture or crop is very important. Over-application of manure can become a pollutionhazard if runoff carries excessive nutrients tosurface water or if the contaminants leach intoground water. On the other hand, applying aninadequate amount of manure could reducecrop yields or pasture productivity.

Appropriate manure application rates arecalculated based on the following:

• nutrients needed by the plant for optimumgrowth

• nutrients already in the soil

• nutrients available in the manure

Unlike with chemical fertilizers, not all thenutrients in manure are available to plantsduring the season it is applied. Rather,approximately half the nutrients in manure areavailable for the first year’s crop; the remainingnutrients become available in successive years asthe organic matter is broken down by micro-organisms in the soil. This “slow release” ofnutrients from the breakdown of manureprovides fertilizer value over a longer time.

Large amounts of straw or wood bedding mayalso affect the nutrients available in manure.Bedding materials undergoing decay have a highdemand for nitrogen and will compete withplants for the available nitrogen in manure. As aresult, plant growth may be depressed unless thecrop or pasture is supplemented with acommercial nitrogen fertilizer. Composting themanure before spreading is one way to improvethe availability of nitrogen to growing crops (seethe chapter “Managing Horse Manure byComposting” in this manual).

Also note that when manure is used to meet thenitrogen requirement of a crop, phosphorus andpotassium will generally be over applied. It isimportant to monitor the soil, through soiltesting, for nutrient build-up. One way to avoidover applying phosphorus and potassium is tomeet the soil requirements for these nutrientswith manure and then top off the nitrogenrequirements with chemical fertilizer.

Specific fertilizer recommendations for cropscommonly grown in Alberta can be found on theAlberta Agriculture website(www.agric.gov.ab.ca) or in the followingAlberta Agriculture publications:

• Alberta Fertilizer Guide (Agdex 541-1)

• Crop Nutrition and Fertilizer Requirements(Agdex 540-1)

Keep records

Keep accurate andup-to-date records ofmanure applicationsfor future crop andpasture planning.Records shouldinclude:

• all soil and manuretest results

• amount of manureapplied and atwhat time of year

• list of crop andpasture speciesgrown in each field

• crop and pastureproduction in eachfield

• amount of manuresold or given awayto others

29

Step 4: ApplyingManure to LandOnce you know the amount of manure to applyto your crop or pasture, you need to decide onthe time and method of application.

Manure should not be spread on frozen orsnow-covered ground. Because the nutrients inmanure cannot be incorporated into frozen soil,there is the potential for water contaminationby way of surface runoff during snowmelt. Up toone-third of fall and winter-applied nitrogenmay be lost due to denitrification, volatilization,leaching and surface runoff during the springthaw (Figure 18).

If spreading manure on pasture, apply duringthe growing season (May to September) whengrasses are actively growing. Keep in mind thatspreading fresh, uncomposted manure onpastures may carry the risk of re-infesting yourhorse with intestinal parasites (see “Pasture: tospread or not to spread”).

Avoid spreading manure over the same areayear after year without soil sampling. Overapplication of manure may adversely affectforage and crop yield, and an accumulation ofexcess nutrients is a potential water pollutionhazard.

Manure is typically spread using a manurespreader (Figure 19). The alternative is quitelabor intensive depending on how much manureneeds to be spread. Spreading can be done bycarrying the manure out to the field withwheelbarrow or truck and then dumping it.Regardless of how the manure is spread, it isimportant to harrow or cultivate soon after themanure is applied, to break up the clumps andspread the manure uniformly across the field.

If spreading manure on cropland, apply andincorporate the manure into the soil just beforeseeding. Some crops, such as alfalfa, maybenefit from additional applications of manurethroughout the growing season.

To avoid contaminating the water supply,manure should be spread at least 100 feet (30meters) from any surface water or well.

If you do not have the land base that can benefitfrom the fertilizer value of manure, makearrangements for your manure to be used offyour property. Additional chapters in thismanual will provide you with alternatives formanaging your manure if spreading is not anoption.

Figure 18. Denitrification and volatilization are chemical reactions that convert inorganic nitrogenions (NO3

- and NH4+, respectively) to nitrogen gases, which are lost to the atmosphere.

Courtesy University of Minnesota Extension Service: www.extension.umn.edu

30

Spreading CompostCompost is essentially manure that has beenactively managed to enhance the breakdownprocess. Because composted manure hasundergone decomposition, nutrient levels incompost are somewhat different than in rawmanure (Table 8).

While compost can provide some fertilizervalue, it is best used as a soil amendment toimprove the texture of the soil and the soil’snutrient level and water-holding capacity.

Spreading compost on cropland or pastures hasseveral benefits over spreading manure:

• Compost does not clump like raw manure, soit spreads more uniformly.

• Compost contains less moisture than rawmanure, resulting in a lighter load to haul andspread, making compost more affordable tospread over large areas.

• Proper composting destroys weed seeds andkills parasite eggs and larvae present in rawmanure, thereby reducing the risk of re-infection.

• Compost carries less risk of depleting the soil,crops at all growth stages and pasture plantsof nitrogen because the organic material inthe manure has already been degraded morecompletely.

Pasture: To Spread orNot to Spread?Even with a diligent deworming program,manure and stall waste can contain intestinalparasites, eggs and larvae that can live for years.Therefore, spreading raw manure and stallwaste directly on a pasture carries the risk ofspreading parasites.

Because composting kills parasite eggs andlarvae, properly composting the manure beforespreading can reduce the potential for re-contamination. For more information oncomposting, see the chapter “Managing HorseManure by Composting” in this manual.

Alternatively, harrowing the manure in apasture to break up manure clumps may allowthe heat of the sun to penetrate the manure andkill the larvae. However, harrowing is lesseffective at destroying the parasite cycle.Harrowing should be done only during hot, dryweather and, ideally, horses should be removedfrom the pasture for two to four weeks afterharrowing. Most importantly, if you spread freshmanure on your pastures, have your veterinarianperform routine fecal egg counts as part of yourintestinal parasite control program.

TheAgricultureOperationPractices Act

As of January 1,2002, amendments tothe AgriculturalOperation PracticesAct (AOPA) broughtmajor changes tolivestockmanagement in theprovince. AOPA isAlberta’s legislationgoverning new andexpanding confinedfeeding operations(CFO’s) and isadministered andenforced by theNatural ResourcesConservation Board(NRCB). AOPA alsopresentsmanagementstandards for manurestorage and handling,nutrient managementand record keeping.

Figure 19. A custom spreader being used to spread large amounts of manure.

31

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Compost should be spread on pastures duringthe growing season (May to September) orincorporated into cropland before seeding.

Ideally, you should sample your compost andsend it to a laboratory for analysis to gain abetter understanding of how much compost toapply. Obtaining a representative sample ofcompost is similar to collecting a sample ofmanure for analysis (see “Manure SamplingTips”).

Manure and compost carry the risk of pollutingwater sources when runoff carries awaynutrients and organic matter. Similar to manurehandling methods, compost should not bespread on frozen ground or snow. In addition,compost should not be spread within 100 feet(30 meters) of surface water.

TheBottomLine• Horse manure can be a

valuable fertilizer ifapplied at the proper time

in the proper amounts.

• Start by sampling your soil and manure todetermine what nutrients your soil lacks andwhat level of manure to apply.

• To avoid contaminating the water supply, donot spread manure within 30 meters(100 feet) of surface water, and do not spreadmanure on frozen or snow-covered ground.

• If applying to cropland, spread andincorporate manure into the soil just beforeseeding.

• If applying to pasture, spread and harrowmanure only during the growing season(May to September), when the grasses can usethe nutrients.

• Spreading uncomposted manure on pasturecarries the risk of contaminating your pastureswith weed seeds and exposing your horse tolarger intestinal parasite loads.

32

33

Marketing ManureConsider these factors when marketing manureto gardeners and nurseries:

• Composted versus raw manureMost gardeners tend to prefer compostedmanure, because it contains little or no weeds.

• Product packagingYou may choose to package the product andsell it locally, or a less labor-intensive optionis to have potential buyers shovel their owncompost. If you choose the former, be sure tocheck with local garden centers to find out theprice of packaged compost.

For some operations, more manure isproduced annually than can be used. If you donot have the land base to maximize the benefitsof the manure and stall waste your horsesproduce, make arrangements for the manure tobe used off your property. Depending on theamount of manure produced, a number ofoptions are available for alternative manuredisposal.

Home Gardeners orNurseriesHorse manure is a valuable fertilizer product forgardeners. Rose gardeners are particularly fondof the nutrient composition in horse manure.Marketing to rose gardeners and other backyardgarden enthusiasts is a viable option for mosthorse owners.

34

Mushroom FarmsMushroom farms are another viable marketingoption; however, these operations require largequantities and a dependable supply. If you areinterested in this option, but do not have alarge, dependable supply, consider formingagreements with neighbors to store their straw-bedded horse manure for a one-stop pick-up bythe mushroom farm. This approach has thepotential to be a workable and profitablecommunity solution. It is important to note thatmushroom growers are also quite particularabout the quality of the product; they wantmanure mixed with straw bedding only and withno horsehair or garbage.

Commercial UsersProfessional landscapers, organic farmers andland reclamation companies are also viablemarketing options. In fact, many cattle feedlotshave formed agreements with these types ofcompanies to remove their composted manure.You may choose to enter into one of theseagreements on your own or sell the manure to afeedlot that already has a contract. If youchoose the former, remember that the compostis sold by the ton, and the company isresponsible for loading and removing thecompost.

Keep Accurate RecordsRegardless of where the manure is marketed, itis important to keep accurate records. Forinstance, record the name and address of theperson or company the manure is sold to, thedate on which the manure was sold and thevolume of manure sold. It is also important toknow where the manure is going and what it isbeing used for.

TheBottomLine• Manure is a marketable

product.

• Keep accurate and up-to-date records of yoursales.

Donationswelcome

If the idea ofmarketing yourmanure is a dauntingone, relax, many cropfarmers or homegarden enthusiastswould be happy totake the manure pile.Having someoneremove and disposeof the excess manurecan be well worththe donation.

Thinking ofburning?

Burning manure isnot an appropriatemanagement practicefor the followingreasons:

• potential firehazard

• valuable nutrientsare lost

• smoke productionresults inunnecessary airpollution

35

Better Managementof Your Horse’sPasture

situated near one another and near urban areas,maintaining good neighbour relations becomescritical. Suitable management of your pasturesis a way to improve the appearance andproductivity of your land and to preventneighbour complaints.

Successful pasture management is notcomplicated, but it means horse owners mustbecome much more aware of the quality andcondition of their pastures. This chapterdescribes how to improve existing pastures andsuggests strategies for getting the most potentialout of pastures for your horses.

What’s Growing in YourPasture?Effective pasture management requires anunderstanding of the forage species that shouldgrow in your horse’s pasture. Furthermore,gaining an appreciation of how pasture plantsgrow and develop, and how grazing andrepeated trampling by hooves may affect thepasture, will help you make sound managementdecisions.

A well maintained pasture can providefresh air and exercise for your horse, and it canalso supply a significant part of the horse’snutritional needs. If managed properly, even asmall pasture can greatly decrease feeding costs,stable cleaning and other management chores,and it can greatly increase the horse’s enjoymentof life.

All too often, horse pastures suffer fromneglect. Pastures commonly house more horsesthan they can support, resulting in bare groundand weed infestations. Not only do these abusedpastures fail to provide nutritious forage foryour horse, the bare spots can be churned todust and mud that present health risks such asrespiratory disease, sand colic and thrush.

Mismanaged pastures also contribute greatly todegradation of the environment through erosionand water pollution from contaminated runoff.And, at the very least, overused pastures presentan eyesore to your neighbors.

Environmental land management can bechallenging when a number of horses areconcentrated on a small parcel of land, such ason acreages. Where several acreages are

Grazingalfalfa

Horses can be grazedon alfalfa pasture.Alfalfa is a legumeand is higher inprotein and slightlyhigher in energy thangrass. In the spring,all grasses andlegumes are lush andless mature. The lessmature the stand, thehigher in energy andprotein. Introduceyour horses to alfalfapasture gradually,just as you wouldintroduce them to afresh, spring grasspasture.

36

Best time to graze

High

Quality Yield

High

Low

Avoid grazing untilplants have begun torestore sugarreserves.

Pasture growth -

Yield and Quality

Stage of growth

Stored sugarsin roots andstem bases

Vegetative ReproductiveElongation

Growing up TallLike horses, plants go through several growthstages. Being able to recognize these differentstages of plant growth is essential for makingdecisions on when and how long your horses caneffectively graze the pasture.

Pasture plants have three distinct growth stages(Figure 20):

1) vegetative

2) elongation

3) reproductive

The “vegetative growth period” is thedevelopment of the leaves. This is a vulnerablestage for the forages and occurs in the spring aswell as during the regrowth from grazing ormowing. Pasture plants use their leaves togather solar energy from the sun, which they useto manufacture food, grow and reproduce.Avoid grazing during this vulnerable stage, sothe plants have a “head start” for a longer andhealthy growing season.

Once the plant develops enough leaves andstores enough energy, it enters the secondgrowth stage, elongation. Elongation is the stagewhen the stem grows taller, but the number ofleaves remains relatively the same.

Pasture plants are best grazed when they enterthe elongation phase. The elongation phaseboth optimizes the nutritional quality of thepasture plant and ensures the plants will survivethe grazing by your horse.

The final, reproductive stage is the period whenthe seedhead or flower develops, andpollination occurs. Once the seedhead or flowerdevelops, all new growth ceases. Horses preferto bypass grasses that are this mature and searchfor grasses in the two earlier phases.

The nutritional quality of pasture forage alsovaries depending on the plant’s stage of growth.As a plant matures from the vegetative toreproductive stage, the fibre content increasesand the nutritional value for horses decreases.

Although vegetative plants are the mostnutritious, they are also the most fragile andsusceptible to damage by grazing or trampling.Plants require some leaf area to support theirown growth. Without these leaves, they have torely on the limited energy stores in their rootsfor survival. Allowing your horse to graze off toomuch of the leaf area (termed “overgrazing”)will slow the regrowth of the plant and possiblydamage the root system. The plant couldeventually die if overgrazing continues.

Advantages ofgrass–legumepasture mixes

Figure 20. Grazing should take place when pasture plants are in the elongation stage of growth, beforelegumes flower and grasses produce seedheads. Grazing during the elongation stage optimizes thenutritional quality of the forage and the total pasture yield, while leaving enough food stores in the rootsfor pasture plants to regrow.

• Mixing of grassand legumespecies provides abetter level ofnutrition forgrazing horsesbecause legumesprovide moreprotein, energy(calories), calciumand vitamins thando grasses.

• The ability oflegumes to “fix”nitrogen in the soilmay reduce theamount ofnitrogen fertilizerneeded in thepasture. Iflegumes make up40 per cent of thepasture, nitrogenfertilizer is notusually needed.

• Grasses andlegumes havediffering levels ofproductionthroughout thegrowing season,providing asteadierproduction offorage over theentire grazingseason than anall-grass pasture.

• A balance of 40-60per cent grassesand 40-60 per centlegumes is idealfor horse pastures.

37

Selecting Plant Species for HorsePastures in AlbertaDifferent pasture forages exhibit differentgrowth characteristics, which you can takeadvantage of when designing a new pasture orimproving an existing pasture. Ideally, youshould select from forage species that possessthe following characteristics:

• adapted to your local climate and soil

• adapted to the style of grazing managementyou will use

• provides a uniform amount of foragethroughout the grazing season

There are two main types of forages: grasses andlegumes. The primary difference between thetwo forages is that legumes have a mutuallyadvantageous relationship with soil bacteria thatenables them to utilize nitrogen from the air tomake plant protein. Grasses do not have thisability and can only obtain nitrogen from thesoil. As a result, legumes, particularly theirleaves, are much higher in protein than grasses.

Common cool-season grasses inAlberta include meadow and smoothbrome grasses, timothy, orchardgrass,creeping red fescue, and intermediateand crested wheatgrasses. Somegrasses are bunch grasses, growingfrom a crown or above ground stem.Others are sod-forming grasses thatspread by horizontal undergroundstems (rhizomes). Popular legumesinclude alfalfa, white clover, redclover and bird’s-foot trefoil.

Grasses and legumes arecomplementary. Cool-season grasseshave the greatest growth in the earlyspring and again in late summer orearly fall, whereas legumes remainproductive during the hotter summermonths. The varying growth patternsof grasses and legumes provide moreuniform grazing throughout thegrowing season. For example, whenbrome grass goes dormant under thestress of the hot, dry summer, alfalfawill produce good grazing; then, theroles reverse in the fall.

a higher risk of damage due to disease ordrought and are less flexible in season-longgrazing management systems. There is littleadvantage to including more than three or fourgrasses and legumes in the mixture. Plants arecompetitive creatures, and the most aggressivespecies in the mix may eventually crowd out theothers.

Alberta has a wide range of climates and soiltypes. As a result, forage species selected for apasture in one area of the province may differfrom species adapted for another location. Evenon the same property, different species mayneed to be chosen for each pasture, dependingon the drainage, soil type and grazing pressureeach area will receive.

Figure 21 shows a map of Alberta withrecommended species mixtures for horsepastures in each region. For more informationon specific forage species, refer to AlbertaAgriculture’s Alberta Forage Manual(Agdex 120/20-4).

Suitableforagespecies foreach area

Area 1 – Brownsoil zoneLegumes:• AlfalfaGrasses:• Russian wild rye• Crested

wheatgrass

Area 2 – DarkBrown soil zone

Legumes:• AlfalfaGrasses:• Meadow brome

grass• Smooth brome

grass• Intermediate

wheatgrass

Area 3 – Blacksoil zoneLegumes:• AlfalfaGrasses:• Meadow brome

grass• Smooth brome

grass• Timothy• Creeping red

fescue

Area 4 – Grayluvisol soil zone

Legumes:• Alfalfa• Red cloverGrasses:• Meadow brome

grass• Smooth brome

grass• Timothy• Creeping red

fescueFigure 21. Grass and legume forage species suitable forhorse pastures in different regions of Alberta. Ideally, horsepastures should contain at least one legume species and oneor two grass species.

Ideally, a pasture should contain atleast one species of grass and onelegume. Single species pastures carry

••

Ft. Vermilion

Peace RiverFairview

Falher

Lac La Biche

Bonnyville

VegrevilleVermilion

Edmonton

Lacombe

StettlerProvost

Hanna Oyen

Brooks

Bow Island

Medicine Hat

Standard

Calgary

Olds

Lethbridge

Westlock

Edson

FortKent

DraytonValley

RedDeer

PincherCreek

Ft. McMurray

Beaverlodge

High Prairie

4

3

21

Coutts

Major SoilClimatic Areas

1.

2.

3.

4.

Brown

Dark Brown

Black

Gray Luvisol

Areas at present considered

as non-agricultural

38

Forage Species to AvoidAlthough most forages can be grazed by horses,a couple of species may be harmful and shouldbe avoided in a pasture mix for horses.

Alsike clover (Trifolium hybridum)Alsike clover has been associated with theoccurrence of photo-sensitization (over-sensitiveto sunlight) and/or liver damage in horses.Unfortunately, the amount of alsike cloverneeded to cause harm is unknown, and somehorses are thought to be more sensitive thanothers.

Affected horses may or may not show signs ofphoto-sensitization (sun-burned appearance oflight-skinned areas, usually on the face, muzzleand legs). Similarly, blood tests may or may notshow disruption of normal liver function.

See “Which Clover is it?” for help ondistinguishing Alsike clover from red and whiteclovers.

Endophyte-infected Tall Fescue (Festucaarundinacea)Older varieties of tall fescue may be infestedwith an endophyte (a fungus that lives inside theplant) that can be harmful to pregnant mares.The endophyte produces mycotoxins that causeprolonged gestation, stillborn foals, retainedplacenta, reduced or absent milk production anddifficulty rebreeding. The endophyte does notappear to have adverse effects on non-pregnantmares, geldings, stallions or growing horses.

Tall fescue may be found in pastures insoutheast Alberta as well as in the Peace Riverarea. The endophyte can also be present in tallfescue hay.

Pregnant mares grazing endophyte-infected tallfescue should be removed from the pasture 30to 60 days before foaling and/or treated with thedrug Domperidone to counteract the effects ofthe mycotoxins. You can dilute endophyte-infected hay by feeding other forages along withthe infected tall fescue. Newer, endophyte-freevarieties of tall fescue are available and shouldbe used if you want tall fescue in your pasturemix. Other varieties of fescue, includingcreeping red fescue, do not contain the harmfulendophyte.

Figure 22. Red clover.• Pink to purple flowers• Hairy leaves and stems• Upright growth habitat• Leaves have a watermark (a white “V” on the leaf)

Figure 23. White clover.• White to pink flowers• Leaves and stems are not hairy• Growth of stems is along the ground• Leaves have a watermark

Figure 24. Alsike clover.• White to pink flowers• Leaves and stems are not hairy• Upright growth habitat• Leaves usually have NO watermarkDrawings courtesy of the United States Department ofAgriculture, Natural Resource Conservation Service.

Which Clover Is it?

Withstandinghigh traffic

The areas aroundgates, water troughs,feed bunks and alongthe fence lines ofadjoining pasturestend to get a lot ofhoof traffic.Maintaining grasscover in these areascan be challenging.Start by selectingspecies that are moretolerant of repeatedtread by hooves.Sod-forming grassessuch as Kentuckyblue grass, creepingred fescue andsmooth brome areexamples of grassesthat would bothprovide ground coverand minimize soildisturbance.

39

Pasture Can Be a RichSource of NutrientsQuality forage, whether it is hay or pasture,should be the foundation of your horse’s feedingprogram. Good quality pasture can providemuch of the nutrition a horse needs. Pasturealso provides an economical forage. The cost ofpasture as a feed is estimated to be nearly one-tenth the cost of hay.

Meeting Your Horse’s NutritionalNeedsThe ability of pasture to supply the feedrequirements of your horse will depend onseveral factors:

1) Species growing in the pastureLegumes are higher in protein and digestibleenergy (calories) and lower in fibre thangrasses. Therefore, a pasture with a higherproportion of legumes, such as alfalfa orclover, will possess a higher nutritional valuecompared to an all-grass pasture.

2) Plant’s stage of maturityPasture forages are high in nutritional valuewhen actively growing and become lower innutritional value with maturity. The moreimmature the plant, the more nutritious andpalatable; however, the smaller the plant, theless feed it provides.

3) SeasonSpring grass contains the highest levels ofprotein and lowest levels of fibre of any grassof the year. As the grazing season progressesinto summer and fall, a reduction in growthand an increase in maturity of the forageleads to a lower nutritional value.

4) Horse’s physiological stateIn many cases, good quality pasture can meetthe nutritional needs of most adult pleasurehorses, along with water, salt and tracemineral supplementation. Even growing two-year-olds can get all they need from good

quality pasture. Weanlings, yearlings, pregnantand lactating mares and horses in hard work,however, may be left short by an all-pasture diet.These groups of horses have higher nutritionalrequirements and would likely require grainfeeding (0.5 to 1.0 per cent of body weight) aswell as grazing.

Taking representative samples of the forage growingin your pasture at different times of the year andsending them to a laboratory for chemical analysesis the most accurate way to help you determine theoverall feeding value of your pasture.

How Much Pasture is Your HorseEating?Pasture intake will vary depending on the season,species and quality of pasture grazed, length ofgrazing time and grazing management.

In addition to what your horse consumes, you mustalso account for how much forage your horsedamages through trampling. One rule of thumb isthat a horse will eat, trample or damage 1 pound offorage per pound of body weight per month (or 1 kgforage per 1 kg body weight). Therefore, to sustainan average 1,100 lb (500 kg) horse, a pasture mustbe capable of producing at least 1,100 lbs (500 kg)of forage each month. With proper grazingmanagement, the amount of forage needed perhorse can be reduced by 10 to 20 per cent.

The amount of forage a pasture produces varies bythe type of forage growing and the season. Grassand grass-legume pastures produce more forageover the grazing season than pastures consisting ofnative rangeland species. Growth is most abundantin the spring and early summer, while growth slowsin the summer and fall.

In Alberta, approximately 60 per cent of the forageon pastures will be produced by early July. Table 9shows the average forage production that can beexpected with proper management of differenttypes of pasture.

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40

Preventing Laminitis andColicHorses that are allowed to over-eat lush pasturemay be at risk for colic or laminitis. Fat horsesand ponies are particularly at risk of laminitis,colic and other problems of over-indulgence.But all horses may be at risk if they are notproperly adapted to grazing lush pasture. Tipsfor preventing laminitis and colic on lushpasture:

• Gradually adjust time on pasture.

Start with two hours of grazing and graduallybuild up to full-time turnout over a period oftwo or more weeks. Keep in mind, your horsemay only need to be on pasture five to sixhours per day to meet its nutritional needs onlush, spring pasture.

• Make sure your horse is well fed beforeplacing it on pasture.

Turning a hungry horse out to pasture is justasking for disaster. Instead, feed your horsehay before turning out to graze. It is best tofeed in a stall or corral away from the pasture,because giving a choice between lush grass orhay while on pasture is like asking a child tochoose vegetables over candy.

• Observe horses daily when first turned out onpasture.

Check for lameness or heat in the hooves,indicative of laminitis, and watch for signs ofabdominal discomfort (rolling, kicking orbiting flank), which are signs of colic. Callyour veterinarian immediately if anythingseems amiss.

• Adjust feed to need.

Pasture-related colic and laminitis can largelybe avoided by providing only the amount offeed your horse needs. In some cases, you mayhave to totally eliminate grazing from yourhorse’s feeding program to better controltheir daily feed intake.

If you have any questions about turning yourhorse out onto spring grass, consult yourveterinarian for a recommendation.

Nitrate Toxicity and HorsesPlants naturally take up nitrogen from the soilin the form of nitrate, which they use to makeplant protein. Any time the plant is stressed,such as during a drought or after a frost, plantgrowth slows. If the plant is not growing, thenitrate is not being turned into protein and isaccumulating within the plant tissues instead.

Cows and other ruminants are most sensitive tonitrates. Nitrate levels above 0.5 to 1 per cent inthe total diet dry matter are known to causetoxicity in cattle and sheep. Horses digestnitrates somewhat differently than cattle and aretherefore thought to be more tolerant ofnitrates in their feed. There are reports ofgrowing horses and pregnant and lactatingmares receiving 1.8 to 2 per cent nitrate in theirhay without any adverse effects. It isrecommended that nitrate concentrationsshould not exceed 1 per cent of the horse’s totaldiet, just to be safe.

Nitrate accumulation is most common in fast-growing annual crops, such as oats and barley.However, nitrates can also accumulate in haycrops and pastures if they were fertilized justbefore being stressed by drought or frost.Pastures with elevated nitrate levels can safelybe used by gradually adapting the animals topasture and by supplementing grazing with hay.

Equine GrazingBehaviourHorses are instinctively selective grazers, basingtheir choice of pasture plants on what tastesgood (palatability) as well as availability. Horsesprefer to eat young, immature plants and willgraze some areas of a pasture down to the bareground. In other parts of the pasture, plants areavoided and allowed to grow to maturity, whichlessens palatability and nutrient availability. Inaddition, horses will not graze in areas wherethey defecate, so pasture plants around manurepiles are also mature and less palatable. Thisgrazing pattern is often called “spot” grazing.

Horses can also graze much closer to the groundthan cows can because horses have upper andlower incisors. However, clipping off the plantstoo close to the ground can cause problems forplant regrowth.

Grazing withotherlivestock

Grazing cattle orsheep with horsescan keep pasturesgrazed moreuniformly and canhelp maintain thepasture’s forage inthe high qualitygrowth stage. Cattleand horses select thesame forage species,but horses tend tograze particular areasin the pasture whilecattle and sheepgraze more atrandom. Cattle willalso graze the moremature forage left byhorses, and sheepwill utilize more ofthe forbs and shrubs.

Furthermore,livestock avoidgrazing near theirown manure, but arewilling to graze nearpiles left by otherspecies. Cattle, sheepand horses do notshare the sameintestinal parasites,so there is no risk ofbecoming infectedwhen grazing aroundeach other’sdroppings. Cattle,sheep and horsesmay all graze thepasture at the sametime, or one groupmay precede theother.

41

Close cropping of pasture plants, trampling andselective grazing can seriously affect theproductivity of a pasture (Figure 25). Selectivegrazing of areas with short, new growth over andover again, without giving the plants a reprieve,causes the plants to decline in vigor orpersistence. As the desirable species of forageare grazed out or trampled, weeds tend toinvade the pasture. Thus, horses can quicklyturn a pasture into a weed patch or dry lot.

Although horses are selective in their grazinghabits, they can be “persuaded,” with properpasture and grazing management, to eat pasturethat they might otherwise choose to avoid. Thisapproach is not being unkind to your horses, it issimply managing their grazing to give them asmuch pasture as you can for as long as possible.

How Many Horses WillMy Pasture Support?The most common question asked by horseowners is, “How many horses can I keep on myproperty?” Unfortunately, the answer to thisquestion is not always straightforward, and thereis considerable variability. Several factors willdetermine the number of horses your pasture(s)will support:

Acreage available for grazingLand available for grazing is what is left overafter you exclude areas used for buildings,stables, trees, house, driveways, sloughs, riversand creeks.

Species of forage growing in the pasture(s)Horses kept on unimproved, “native” rangelandpastures often require more land to sustain eachhorse. Improved, “tame” grass and grass-legumepastures will produce more forage than nativerangeland, allowing more horses to besupported by a smaller area.

Figure 25. Spot grazing = portions of pasture being overgrazed and other portions ofthe same pasture being undergrazed. Spot grazing results in the appearance of “lawns”(closely cropped areas) and “roughs” (tall, over-mature plants and manure piles).

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Quality of the pasture forage availableThe more desirable the forage species growingin your pasture and the more forage availablefor grazing, the higher the pasture quality. Ifyour pasture is overgrazed, full of weeds andbare spots, you have a poor quality pasture.

Soil and climate characteristics unique toyour area of AlbertaGrey wooded soil supports more horses than thebrown soil regions. With good rainfall orirrigation, less acreage may be required. Duringtimes of drought, the number of horses perpasture should be reduced.

Grazing management employedHow you manage your pastures can be thebiggest factor that determines the number ofhorses your land can support. Propermanagement will increase the productivity andlong-term survival of your pasture. The less landyou have, or the more horses you pasture peracre, the more intensive management you willneed to provide to maintain your pastures inhealthy, useful condition.

Physiological state and size of horses grazingthe pastureLactating mares with foals require almost twiceas much feed as an idle mature gelding.Similarly, bigger horses graze more grass.Therefore, the number of horses your pasturewill support should be adjusted based on thesize and physiological state of the horses.

Municipal restrictionsCheck with your local municipality to see ifthere are any regulations concerninghorsekeeping. Areas may have regulationsregarding number of horses allowed, odour,flies, disposal of manure and drainage ontoneighboring properties.

Keep in mind, there are limits to a particularproperty’s ability to support animals. Sadly, youmay have to face the fact that you just cannothouse the number of horses you would like atyour current location without causingdetrimental effects to the environment.

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Calculating Stocking RatesWhen determining the number of horses your pasture can support or the amount of land needed to supportthe grazing of your horses, you are calculating the “stocking rate.”

The following equation can be used as a guideline for determining the number of pasture acres required forgrazing:

Pasture acres required = (# horses) X (average body weight in pounds) X (0.035) X (# grazing days) Average forage production, in pounds per acre

For example, say you have two, 1,100-lb horses and you want to graze them for 3 months. You estimate yourpasture will produce an average of 2,000-lbs of forage per acre in that 3-month period (refer to Table 9 foraverage pasture forage production or well managed pastures).

Pasture acres required = (2) X (1,100 lbs) X (0.035) X (120 days) 2,000 lbs per acre

= 4.6 acres would be needed for 120 days of grazing these 2 horses

Table 10 shows some reasonable estimates for the number of acres needed to support an average 1,100-lbhorse for one month of grazing, based on the annual precipitation and the quality of the pasture.

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44

Grazing ManagementManaging the grazing of your horses will have agreater effect on the productivity of yourpasture than almost any other factor, includingthe species of forage growing there.

Two important practices that need to beimplemented into your grazing managementplan are proper timing of grazing and a rest-rotation schedule.

Time to EatA simple way to determine if your pasture isready to graze is to measure the height of theforage (Figure 26). Using a ruler, record theheight of the vegetation as it stands naturally(do not stretch or extend leaves) at severallocations within the pasture and average theheights. Each 2.5 cm (1 in.) you measure isequivalent to approximately 100 to 250 kg(200 to 500 lbs) of forage.

A pasture should contain at least 15 to 20 cm(6 to 8 in.) of growth before horses are allowedto graze. This rule for grazing height holds truewhether you are just turning your horses out inthe spring, or you are returning them to a fieldthat was allowed to regrow after a period of rest.

Grasses and legumes need time for sufficientgrowth before grazing is allowed. If grazed tooearly, plants may die and be replaced byundesirable plants species and weeds.

A Little R’n RKnowing when to stop grazing is just as criticalto maintaining a productive pasture as decidingwhen to begin grazing. Pastures must have aperiodic rest from grazing, so they canrecuperate.

Once horses have grazed the majority of thegrass in a pasture down to 8 to 10 cm(3 to 4 in.), remove the horses from the pasture.Never allow grass to be grazed shorter than 8cm (3 in.). This practice ensures that the grasswill have enough food reserves to permit rapidregrowth. You can put horses back on pasturewhen the grass has regrown to about 15 to 20 cm(6 to 8 in.).

Regrowth of pasture plants usually takes two tosix weeks, depending on the time of year. In thespring, forages grow twice as fast as they doduring the summer, so pasture rest periods maybe shorter in the spring and longer in thesummer and fall.

Rotating horses through a series of pastures(termed “rotational grazing”) or removinghorses from pastures for part of the day (knownas “limited grazing”) are practices that willprovide rest periods.

The key to maintaining a productivepasture is to manage your horses sothat grazing removes only a certainamount of the plant and leaf area,leaving enough behind for the plant torecover and begin regrowing again.

Figure 26. A pasture should contain at least15-20 cm (6-8 in.) of growth before grazing isallowed. Horses should be removed from a pasturewhen plants are grazed down to 8-10 cm (3-4 in.).

12

Inches

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Grazing SystemsSeveral grazing schemes can be used to controlyour horse’s grazing and, at the same time, topromote healthy pastures. Keep in mind that noone grazing scheme is best for all situations, anda combination of techniques may work best foryou.

Rotational GrazingThe concept behind rotational grazing is tobreak up larger pastures into smaller sections,so you can control your horse’s grazing in asmaller area. This practice encourages thehorses to be less selective and to graze theavailable forage more evenly. Once one sectionis grazed down, the animals are moved to a newsection while the grazed section is allowed torest and recover from grazing and hoof damage.

As a first step towards a rotational grazingsystem, you may want to first try dividing anexisting large pasture in half and then alternategrazing. Then, try further subdividing thepasture after you gain some experience(Figure 27).

Ideally, you want at least four smaller pasturesthat provide enough grazing for seven to tendays.This grazing duration gives each pasture arest of three to five weeks. As the grass maturesand growth slows during the summer, you willlikely have to decrease grazing time andincrease resting time.

The movement of horses should be based on thegrowth rate of the pasture and the specificheight of the forage, not on the calendar. Begingrazing when the forage is 15 to 20 cm(6 to 8 in.) tall. Once horses have grazed apasture down to 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.) rotatethem onto the next pasture.

In spring and early summer, when growth is fast,you may find that your horses cannot keep pacewith the rapidly growing grass in your pastures.While you could wait for your horses to grazeone pasture down to 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.), theforage in your other pastures would mature andquickly become less palatable. Instead ofwaiting, you might choose to move your horsesto other sections sooner, so they have a chanceto graze the tops of all pastures. Alternatively,you might be able to harvest hay from one ormore pastures that cannot be effectively grazedin the spring and early summer.

If the size of your available acreage is small, youmay find that your first pasture has not yetrecovered to grazing height by the time youhave rotated through all the other pastures. Toavoid overgrazing, supplemental feeding and/orreduced or restricted grazing time may have tobe used to give each pasture adequate rest.

There may be several options for dividing yourpasture into smaller plots for rotational grazing.Remember that all sections must allow access towater. Also, try to divide pastures in such a waythat horses can have access to shade or shelter,especially if they will be confined to these areasfor more than a few hours (Figure 27).

Grazingpressurevalve

If pasture forage is inshort supply, eitherbecause of limitedacreage, seasonalslumps in pasturegrowth or too manyhorses, you candecrease thepressure on yourpastures by:

• Decreasing thestocking rate byremoving some orall of the horsesfrom the pasture

• Leaving the horseson pasture for onlya few hours daily,rather than all day

• Feeding hay for atleast four hoursbefore turninghorses out onpasture

Figure 27. Options for dividing your pasture to facilitate rotational grazing.

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Advantages ofRotational Grazing• Increases the amount and quality of

forage obtained by grazing

• More animals can be supported on thesame acreage of pasture

• Reduces or eliminates selective or spotgrazing

• Allows for more complete utilization ofpasture forage

• Minimizes “rejection areas” where horseswill not graze

• Promotes the growth of desired speciesand reduces the number of undesirablespecies and weeds.

• Can help control parasites and discouragesome animal diseases

• May permit harvesting of excess forage inspring and stockpiling forage for the fall

• Provides better manure distribution andnutrient recycling

• Allows for frequent horse-human contact

Practice Limit GrazingThe more horses you have on your property, andthe less land you have, the more challenging itcan be to manage your pastures. You can stillpreserve your pastures and keep them healthyby limiting the amount of time your horsesgraze. Although more hand-feeding will berequired, pasture turnout can still contribute toyour horse’s health.

There are many ways to modify a limitedgrazing routine to fit your horses, farm andschedule. You might choose to turn your horsesout once or twice a day, before or after work, fora few hours each time. Night turnout isappealing to some owners because the absenceof the sun prevents bleaching of the haircoat.There are also fewer bugs at night. If you haveseveral horses, you could turn one group out atnight and a separate group out during the day,so the ground suffers less abuse at one time.

Always remember to monitor the height of thegrass. As the vegetation is grazed down to 8 to10 cm (3 to 4 in.), remove your horses and placethem into a corral or dry lot area (see theinformation on “Sacrifice areas” below). Wait

until the forage has regrown to a height of 15 to20 cm (6 – 8 in.) before allowing your horsesaccess to pasture again.

Continuous GrazingMany horse owners allow their horse access to apasture continuously. The horse usually remainson the same piece of land over the wholegrazing season. This type of grazing system iscalled “continuous grazing.”

Although continuous grazing requires the leastamount of capital investment and management,this type of system can be very unhealthy for theland. Unrestricted access allows horses to behighly selective during much of the grazingseason, creating both overgrazed forage andareas of under-used and wasted forage. A loss ofdesirable forage species, invasion of weeds,erosion and the nonuniform distribution ofhorse manure are other problems commonlyassociated with continuously grazed pastures.

To maintain a healthy plant stand withcontinuous grazing, you will need a sufficientlylarge land area and you need to maintain a lowstocking rate.

A Small SacrificeYou can greatly improve the health andproductivity of your pastures by creating andusing a “sacrifice area.” A sacrifice area is asmall enclosure such as a paddock, corral orpen, or turnout area. The concept is that aselected area is sacrificed from the grazingsystem and is used to confine the horses toprotect pastures from over-use at critical times.

Sacrifice areas give flexibility to themanagement of your horse property. Horses canbe confined to the sacrifice area when:

• pastures need a rest from grazing

• you want to control the amount of grass yourhorse consumes on a daily basis

• you want to prevent over-consumption of lushpasture in the spring and early summer

• you need to care for sick or injured animals

Sacrifice areas also have other benefits. Theycan serve as a central watering location forrotational grazing systems, and they provide alocation for supplemental feeding. Sacrificeareas are also ideal for helping to juggle theturnout of compatible groups of horses whenpasture area is limited. In addition, manure

Fence me in

Portable electricfencing or tape is asimple andinexpensive way tocreate temporarypaddocks in a largepasture to facilitaterotational grazing.And when it is timeto rotate the horsesinto a new area, theelectric barriers areeasy to move. If youuse only one tape orstrand, then string itat a height ofapproximately 84 cm(33 in.); hang doublestrands at 50 and 90cm (20 and 36 in.);space triple strandsat 40, 70 and 100 cm(16, 28 and 40 in.).Easy-to-installelectric fencingsystems can bepurchased from mostfarm supply stores.

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deposits are confined to a smaller area, whichcan be cleaned and the manure removed morefrequently.

When choosing a location for a sacrifice area,select a site on higher, drier ground, away fromwetlands, streams or ditches. Surround the areawith at least 8 to 15 m (25 to 50 ft.) of lawn,pasture, trees or bushes. This vegetative bufferwill act as a natural filter for contaminatedwater running off the area.

For chore efficiency, you may want to keep thearea close to the barn. You may have severalturnout paddocks that you rotate stalled horsesthrough during the day. Alternatively, you couldset up a sacrifice area for each horse as a run offof each stall.

The amount of land you have available and thenumber of horses and their temperaments willall affect the size of the sacrifice areas you need.Approximately 100 square meters (1,000 ft2) willbe needed for each horse. The shape of asacrifice area can be square or it can be a long,narrow enclosure that allows horses to run andplay. Approximately 6 to 9 m (20 to 30 ft.) wideby 30 m (100 ft.) in length will allow a horse totrot; 60 m (200 ft.) in length will allow a horse tocanter.

Footing for the horses is an importantconsideration for sacrifice areas. The objectiveis to have a hard-wearing, steady surface that isable to cope with plentiful hoof traffic withoutdegenerating into dust and mud. Hogfuel orwoodchips may help eliminate the urine smelloften present in outdoor confinement areas.Crushed rock (no larger than 5/8 in.) or sandwill also work well in some situations.

The area should slope 2 to 4 per cent to avoidponding of water and to reduce erosion. Roofrunoff from barns and other structures shouldbe drained away from the sacrifice area.

Home on the RangeMany horses in Alberta may be grazingrangeland rather than cultivated pastures. Thenative vegetation in a rangeland ecosystem mayinvolve hundreds of species that have evolvedand adapted to the local soil and climateconditions over thousands of years.

Growth of native rangeland species typicallyfollows rainfall. Because of this characteristic,most of the rangeland growth occurs in earlysummer, with very little occurring thereafterunless it rains (see Table 11).

Because the majority of growth occurs at onetime, maintaining horses on native rangelandcan be quite a challenge. Rangeland can easilybe overgrazed unless forage production ismatched with grazing pressure.

Tips for managing the grazing of horses onnative rangeland:

1) Practice rotational grazingConcentrate your horses’ grazing in a smallerarea when growth is abundant in the springand early summer, and allow other areas toremain unused. In essence, you arestockpiling or saving the forage. When thehorses have grazed the first area down, rotatethem into a new area where the forage hasbeen stockpiled.

All you caneat?

A horse turned out topasture full time willgenerally graze 14 to16 hours during each24-hour period. If thepasture is of goodquality, maturehorses may becomeoverweight with thismuch grazing time.Particularly in thespring, this techniquewould be likeallowing your horseto munch on oats allday long.

If your pasturecontains adequatequantities of goodquality pastureforage, your horsemay be able toconsume a sufficientquantity to meettheir nutritionalneeds in five to sixhours daily. Ofcourse, if yourpasture is overgrazedwith sparse forage,you will have toincrease the amountof time your horse isallowed to grazeaccordingly.

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2) Confine horses to a sacrifice area duringcritical timesRegrowth of grazed rangeland may be slowerthan in cultivated pastures. As a result, theremay not be sufficient regrowth in previouslygrazed pastures for you to be able to safelyturn your horses back out without hurting thenative grasses. Confining your horses to acorral or dry-lot (sacrifice area) will requireyou to hand-feed, but it will spare yourrangeland pastures from damage that couldbe irreversible.

3) Inter-seed rangeland with higher producinggrasses and legumesThe overall production of forage can beimproved on native rangeland by introducinga compatible grass or legume.

Extending the GrazingSeasonThe grazing season in Alberta typically begins inmid to late May and carries into mid to lateSeptember. However, there are a few things thatcan be done to encourage plant growth earlierin the season or to extend grazing into the latefall.

• Proper fertilization in the spring may allowgrazing to begin one or two weeks earlier inthe season.

• Practice rotational grazing to keep forage inthe vegetative growth stage.

• Stockpile forages to use in October andNovember by allowing a pasture to growungrazed starting in July (creeping red fescueis especially good for stockpiling).

• Seed a legume to provide forage during thehotter summer months when grasses godormant.

• Plant specialty or annual crops, such as oatsor fall rye, that will provide grazing in Julyand August.

Routine PastureManagementDesign and LayoutA good pasture contains a clean, reliable watersource, mineral salt blocks and shelter from thesun and inclement weather. Carefularrangement of fences to provide for easy accessto water, mineral, salt and shelter should be partof all pasture programs.

If you own portable fencing, water troughs andfeed bunks, your pasture layout can be changedto better serve your needs throughout the year.You can design your pastures to manage forhigh rainfall years or drought. You can alsomove your fencing to change your horses use oftheir pasture, which will protect moresusceptible areas from regular hoof traffic.

Soil Testing and FertilizingThe quantity and quality of the forage producedby your pastures can usually be greatly increasedby proper fertilization. In addition, applicationof the correct amount of fertilizer can decreaseweed problems by making your grass plants sovigorous that weeds cannot get established.

To determine the amount of fertilizer yourpastures need, you must first have your soilstested. Soil testing reveals the existing nutrientlevels in the soil, as well as the nature andcondition of the soil, all of which can becorrected to improve pasture production. Formore information on soil testing, refer to “Step1: Sample Your Soil” in the chapter “ManagingManure by Spreading on Cropland andPasture.”

Once you have found out from your soil testwhat nutrients your pastures need, apply onlythose nutrients in the amounts recommended.Over-fertilizing is not only costly, but may alsocontribute to surface water pollution.

Commercial fertilizer mixtures typically supplycombinations of nutrients in variousproportions, the most common ones beingnitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Thesemixtures should only be used if ALL thenutrients they contain are lacking in the pasture.A better alternative would be to have a customfertilizer mix created for your pastures based onthe recommendations made in your soil analysis.

Be aware that the type of plant species growingin your pasture may affect which nutrients areneeded for better production. Grasses benefitfrom nitrogen fertilization, whereas legumesrespond better to phosphorus, potash and lime.A pasture containing a mix of grasses andlegumes may not need nitrogen fertilization ifthe pasture contains at least 40 per centlegumes. In fact, untimely or excessive nitrogenfertilization of a grass-legume pasture may bedetrimental because grasses might crowd outthe legumes.

Exercisepaddocks

If your acreage is toosmall to support themenu of your horses,you can still developa grassy exercisepaddock where yourhorses can havesome free time.

• Plant sod-forminggrasses that aremore resistant toclose grazing andtrampling (creepingred fescue andsmooth bromegrass)

• Limit turnout timeto help preservegood ground cover

• Remove manure ordrag the paddockregularly

• Mow undergrazedforage

• If the paddockappears overused,give it some well-needed rest

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The timing of fertilizer application is just asimportant as the type and amount applied.Applying fertilizer several times throughout thegrazing season is more beneficial than a singleannual application. For example, a portion ofthe yearly nitrogen application can be applied inthe spring to encourage initial spring growth,and another application can occur in the latesummer to extend the grazing season andstrengthen roots for winter.

Additional applications of nitrogen can be madethroughout the growing season. If you practicerotational grazing, a good time to apply nitrogenis just after you rotate your horses off thepasture. Most importantly, fertilizers should beapplied only during the growing season whenplants can utilize the nutrients.

Horses should be taken off the field whenfertilizer is applied. Read the fertilizer productlabel to determine when it is safe to returnhorses to the pasture. If you have questions orconcerns, consult with your veterinarian.

To monitor the effectiveness of your fertilizerprogram, you should perform new soil tests onyour pastures every two to three years.

Information on the fertilizer requirements ofdifferent crops can be found on AlbertaAgriculture’s website (www.agric.gov.ab.ca) orin the Alberta Agriculture publications AlbertaFertilizer Guide (Agdex FS541-1) and CropNutrition and Fertilizer Requirements(Agdex FS 540-1). For information on usingmanure as a fertilizer for your pastures, see thechapter “Managing Manure by Spreading onCropland and Pastures.”

Weed Prevention and ControlWeeds are undesirable plants that have eitherlimited or no grazing value. Common weedssuch as Canada thistle are invasive and reducepasture production.

Weeds thrive in overgrazed and abusedpastures, competing with desirable plants forsunlight, moisture and nutrients, and oftenwinning. Weeds severely reduce the feed valueof your pasture, and at their worst, some weedsare even harmful to your horses (see the section“Hazardous Materials”).

The techniques for getting rid of existing weedsin your pasture include removal by hand,mowing and herbicide application. Weedremoval should be done before perennial weedsbud and before annual weeds seed.

If you choose to apply herbicides, make sure theproduct you are using is effective for the specificweed you are trying to control and that youapply it at the correct time or stage of growth.Only spray areas with weeds and be aware ofwind drift.

Horses should be removed from herbicide-treated pastures. Not only may the chemicals beharmful to horses, some herbicides makepoisonous plants more attractive or palatable.The length of time horses will have to be heldoff pasture depends on the product used. Alwaysread and follow all instructions and precautionson the product label.

Herbicide application may correct your currentweed problem. However, if you do not changeyour management style to prevent weeds frombecoming established, they will come back.Weeds often get started in handling areas, fencelines, watering sites or winter feeding areas.Monitoring these sites on a regular basis is thebest method for early detection of weedproblems.

Tips for WeedPrevention:• Promote healthy growth of desirable

pasture plants with a proper fertilizationprogram

• Do not overgraze your pastures

• Buy certified weed-seed-free hay

• Mow pastures regularly before weeds goto seed or before they shade outdeveloping grasses

• Early identification of undesirable weedsand poisonous plants

For more information on weed identificationand eradication, see the Alberta Agriculturepublications, Weeds of the Prairies (Agdex 640-4)and Crop Protection (Agdex 606-1). For moreinformation on poisonous plants, refer toPoisonous Plants on Rangeland and Pasture(Agdex 130/666-1).

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Hazardous MaterialBecause horses are very selective grazers,they are extremely good at avoidingpoisonous plants — as long as they have achoice. When pastures are overgrazed andhorses are hungry or bored, they are morelikely to try a plant that could be harmful.Some of the poisonous plants found inAlberta are listed below. If you identify apotentially harmful species of plant in yourpasture, it should be removed. Contact yourveterinarian if you suspect poisoning.

Potential Poisonous PlantsArrowgrass (Triglochin maritima)

Chokecherry (Pruunus spp.)

Death camas (Zgadenus spp.)

Dogbane (Agocynum spp.)

Early yellow locoweed (Ocytropis macounii)

Horsetails or scouring rush (Equisetum spp.)

Lady’s-thumb (Polygonum spp.)

Low Larkspur (Delphinium bicolor)

Tall Larkspur (Delphinium glaucum)

Lupines (Lupinus spp.)

Milk-vetch (Astragalus spp.)

Monkshood (Aconitum spp.)

Mustards (Brassica spp.)

Saskatoon berry (Amelanchier alnifolia)

Showy milkweed (Asclepias spp.)

Western water hemlock (Cicuta douglasii)

MowingHorses are selective grazers, eating some plantsclose to the ground and leaving othersuntouched. Plants also grow rapidly aroundmanure piles, as a result of the added fertility ofthe manure and because horses avoid grazingnear these spots, so you will want to mow.

Mowing can increase the quantity and quality ofgrazing. Mowing your pastures cuts all theplants to the same height, stimulating moreuniform regrowth and preventing grass plantsfrom getting too tall and tough to be appetizingto horses. Cutting down weeds before they havea chance to go to seed is also a very importantweed management technique.

Set your mower deck to a height of 10 to 15 cm(4 to 6 in.). Ideally, pastures should be clippedbefore grass seed heads emerge (“heading”) toencourage plants to produce leafy, higherquality vegetation. If you use rotational grazing,clip your pastures immediately after you removeyour horses from the grazed area.

HarrowingPastures will also benefit from harrowing themanure. Dragging the pasture spreads manureevenly over the grazing area, thereby recyclingthe nutrients back into the soil more effectively.

Harrowing can be done when it is hot or cold,but it should be performed in dry weather.Harrowing at this time breaks up the manureclumps, so they can dry out and kill intestinalparasite eggs and larvae. In contrast, spreading

Droughtmanagementtips:

• Reduce thestocking rate ofyour pastures

• Give pastureslonger rest periods

• Confine horses offof pasture

• Control weeds

• Be aware ofpoisonousplants—lack ofavailable foragemay cause yourhorse to eat them

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manure in warm, moist weather encouragesparasite eggs to hatch and thrive, increasing therisk of reinfecting your horse. After scatteringthe manure piles, do not let the horses graze thearea for three to four weeks.

Harrowing can easily be incorporated into apasture rest-rotation schedule. Immediatelyafter an area has been grazed and the horseshave been removed, mow the area and harrowwhile the grass is short and the manure is stillfresh.

Equipment ChecklistThe equipment you use to keep your pastureshealthy does not have to be complex orexpensive—it all depends on the size of yourplace and your needs.

• Lawnmower—riding lawnmowers (16 to 18horsepower) are effective for small farms andcan be used to pull harrows and manurespreaders; a tractor and rotary mower may benecessary for larger pastures.

• Harrow—harrows are used for spreading outmanure piles in pastures and can also be usedto smooth arena surfaces. You can buy aharrow or make one with a piece of chain-linkfencing, an old metal bedspring or gate.

• Manure spreaders—a manure spreader canmake the job of spreading your manure orcompost throughout your pastures a loteasier. Choose a manure spreader that yourriding lawnmower or truck can handle andthat it is not too big to maneuver around yourpastures. Make sure the spreader is adaptedto horse manure. Cow manure is softer andbreaks apart more easily, which makes adifference in how the tines in the spreader arestructured.

• Electric or portable fence—use fencing todivide your pastures into smaller areas forrotation.

Breaking the WormCycleAll horses carry some level of intestinalparasite burden. Considering that 99 percent of a given worm population exists onpastures, it is not hard to see why properpasture management is important.

Here are some tips for reducing the risk ofreinfecting your horses on pasture:

• Have your veterinarian perform regularfecal egg counts on your pastures

• Establish and maintain a routinedeworming program

• Remove horses from pastures afterharrowing until manure is dried andpartially decayed (approximately three tofour weeks in the summer)

• Practice rotational grazing, giving pasturetime to rest and manure time to breakdown

• Remove manure from pastures

• Graze cattle or sheep after horses to breakthe horse worm cycle (these livestock caningest horse worm larvae without harm)

Rejuvenating PoorQuality PasturesMany people have existing pastures that are inneed of some help. A loss of desired pasturespecies, an invasion of weeds or bare spotsindicate your pasture is hurting. Plowing up apasture and replanting can be very expensiveand time consuming. Fortunately, large gains inproduction can be made in a poor qualitypasture by applying the same management toolsyou would use on a healthy pasture.

Pastures can often be rejuvenated simply byapplying the appropriate fertilizer. In additionto stimulating the growth of existing plants,fertilizer will stimulate dormant seed that isalready in the ground. Have your soil tested todetermine the proper fertilizer treatment.

A sound grazing system will also promote ahealthy pasture by preventing overgrazing.Pasture grasses and legumes need time to restand recuperate after they are grazed, so theycan build up their own reserves. Monitor grass

Pasturemakeovertips:

• Start anappropriatefertilizationprogram

• Manage thegrazing of yourhorses to avoidovergrazing

• Mow mature,undergrazedforage

• Control weedsbefore they get tobe a problem

• Interseed with alegume

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height and remove your horses when the grass isgrazed down to 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.). Mow theuneven growth, harrow the manure and let thepasture rest until it has grown back up to 15 to20 cm (6 to 8 in.) before allowing your horsesback out to graze.

Weeds are the biggest culprits in decreasingpasture quality. They steal nutrients fromdesirable pasture species, and some are harmfulto your horses. Weeds should be removed, eitherphysically or chemically. Proper fertilization,grazing management, mowing and earlyidentification will help you combat future weedproblems.

Introducing a legume is also a good techniquefor reviving a horse pasture. Legumes, such asalfalfa, reduce the need for nitrogenfertilization, improve horse performance andprovide better seasonal distribution of forage inmid-summer. Legumes can also be added toyour existing pasture with plowing it up byinterseeding.

There are two methods for seeding legumes intograss sod: frost seeding and no-till drill. Frostseeding is best performed in the early spring.Legume seed is broadcast on the soil andallowed to roll into tiny cracks formed by thenatural freeze-and-thaw cycle of this season.No-till drill is performed in the late summer/early fall. Using this method, a tractor-pulledseeder is used to cut slits in the soil, depositseed and then roll the slits closed in oneoperation with minimal disturbance to existingvegetation.

The drawback to any type of seeding is thatgrazing cannot occur until new plants areestablished, which can take up to six months.With frost seeding in the spring, that meanshorses cannot be turned out on the pasture untillate summer. With no-till drill in the fall, horsesshould be able to begin grazing by spring.Where this practice is often not available,horses may be allowed to graze lightly when thenew grass is 15 to 20 cm (6-8 in.) in height, butthe effectiveness of the interseeding may belessened.

Because interseeding might put your pasture outof commission for part or all of the normalgrazing season, you may want to subdivide yourpasture into at least two parts and improve itsection by section. This approach keeps someturnout available and distributes expense overtime. If only a small area of the pasture will beinterseeded, you may be able to fence off therenewed areas and continue to use theremainder of the field.

Using the interseeding option to renovate yourpastures is very costly and not always successful.If you decide to attempt interseeding you mightwant to select a small area as a test site. Thatway, you will be able to see how successful thetechnique is on your pasture with little loss ofland, time and money.

Remember that once your pasture has beenimproved, you must continue to actively manageit, so it will remain a good pasture.

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A Complete PastureOverhaulYou may be in a situation where your currentpasture is so far gone that you need to startover. Alternatively, you might have just movedto a new property and want to establish newpastures for your horses. It may also benecessary to seed a new pasture if you areconverting a row crop field to pasture or wherepasture sod does not exist for some reason.

A complete overhaul of an existing pastureshould be a last resort. Pasture renovation canbe very expensive, and the pasture may be offlimits for a year or more while the new growthbecomes established. If you have an existingpasture, consider all your pasture improvementalternatives to revive and support the vegetationalready growing before settling on a costlyseeding effort (refer to the section“Rejuvenating Poor Quality Pastures”). If lessthan 25 per cent of your pasture growth isdesirable plants, opting for complete renovationmakes sense.

Several factors are of vital importance inestablishing a good horse pasture:

• Preparation of an adequate seedbed

• Matching plant species to your soil andclimate

• Selection of high quality seed of an adequatevariety

• Using proven seeding methods

• Supplying proper fertility

• Control of pests and weeds

• Keeping horses off the pasture until forageplants are well-established (one to threeyears)

Unless you have some crop growing experience,you are wise to involve some knowledgeableadvisors and/or custom planters in a majorpasture renovation or establishment process.

Information on forage species selection, seedingrates and seedbed preparation can be found inthe Alberta Agriculture publication AlbertaForage Manual (Agdex 120/20-4).

TheBottomLine• A productive pasture will

decrease your feed costs,enhance your horse’s

health and attitude, and improve theaesthetics of your property.

• Do not begin grazing until pasture vegetationaverages 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 in.) in height.

• Avoid overgrazing by removing horses whenvegetation averages 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in.).

• Manage grazing more effectively byincorporating a rotational grazing system orlimited grazing plan.

• Mow, harrow and fertilize when appropriateto keep your pasture productive.

• Give pastures adequate rest from grazing.

• Create a sacrifice area to conveniently keephorses off pastures when necessary.

• Keep a realistic stocking rate for yourproperty.

• Take good care of your pasture, and it willtake good care of your horse.

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References and Further ReadingAlberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development Publications:

Publication: Agdex #Alberta Forage Manual (1992) 120/20-4

Establishing Hay and Pasture Crops (1994) 120/22-2

Varieties of Perennial Hay and Pasture Crops for Alberta (produced annually) 120/32Range and Pasture Management When Dealing with Drought (1989) 130/14-1

Grazing Tame Pastures Effectively (1998) 130/53-1

Native Range Fertilizer Guide (2000) 130/541

Poisonous Plants on Range and Pasture (1991) 130/666-1

Winter Cereals for Pasture (1993) 133/20-1

Alberta Range Plants and Their Classification (2000) 134/06Cattle Wintering Sites: Managing for Good Stewardship (2001) 420/580-2

Horse Handling Facilities (1997) 460/722-1

Crop Nutrition and Fertilizer Requirements (1998) 540-1

Alberta Fertilizer Guide (1995) 541-1

Tips and References for Owners of Small Farms and Acreages (1998) 570-8

Manure Management to Protect Water Quality (2000) 576-6Getting to Know Your Local Watershed (2002) 576-8

Crop Protection (the “Blue Book” – produced annually) 606-1

Weeds of the Prairies (2000) 640-4

To order both free and priced Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development publications,call the toll-free line at 1-800-292-5697.

Other Resources• Environmental Guidelines For Horse Owners In British Columbia. 1995. British Columbia

Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food.

• Pasture Management Guide For Livestock Producers. 1998. Iowa State University CooperativeExtension.

• Manure and Pasture Management for Recreational Horse Owners. 2000. University of MinnesotaExtension Service.

• Advanced Forage Management. 1999. Pacific Field Corn Association, Agassiz, BC.

• Pasture for Horses. 1997. University of Wisconsin Cooperative Extension.

• Horses: Manure Management. 1994. Clemson University Cooperative Extension.

• Horse Manure: A Renewable Resource. 1996. Colorado State University Cooperative Extension.

• Caring For the Green Zone, Riparian Areas and Grazing Management. 2nd Edition. 1998. AlbertaCows and Fish Program.

• Healthy Horses, Clean Water: A Guide to Environmentally Friendly Horsekeeping. 2001. Horsesfor Clean Water, Maple Valley, WA.