COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALIwww.versantesud.it www.versantesud.it

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Jack

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Isatis Cuvier

Cuisinière Apremont

Salamandre Rocher Canon

Rocher d’Avon Gorges du Houx Rocher Cassepot

Rocher du Calvaire Rocher de Bouligny

Rocher Saint GermainRocher des Demoiselles

Mont Ussy – Roche Hercule

ISBN 978-88-87890-65-5 E 30,00

If you don’t already know Fontaineb-leau and you are about to discover this magic place, from the very first pages of this guide you will under-stand why its sandstone boulders are the most famous in the world of climb-ing. However if you already know the woods this guide will give you, thanks to the explanations, drawings and photos, a clear and effective means to choose your next objectives at a glance. Each problem is described emphasising the line rather than the grade because climbing is above all the intimate relationship between the climber and the rock.

Jacky Godoffe is a fifty year old with five kids but who climbs at least four times a week. He has been a fanatical climber for more than thirty years, especially on the boulders of Fontainebleau, where he was the first to free 8a and 8b problems. Untiring route setter for international com-petitions, and manager of the French bouldering team, he writes for French climbing magazines and has written three guidebooks. In his remaining free time he plays the piano and the guitar.

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Jacky Godoffe

NoteClimbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk.All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situa-tion or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

First edition: 2010

ISBN: 978-88-87890-65-5

Copyright © 2008 VERSANTE SUD Milano via Longhi, 10, tel. 027490163www.versantesud.it

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers.

Cover Michael Wilhelm (N. Altmaier www.NicolasAltmaier.de)

Text Jacky Godoffe (bleauabloc@versantesud.it)

English translation Melanie Roberts

Maps Chiara Benedetto

Editing Chiara Benedetto

Symbols Chiara Benedetto

Printed by Monotipia Cremonese snc (CR)

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Jacky Godoffe

Bouldering in Fontainebleau

FONT À BLOC

4

INDEX and MAP

Introduction 6Technical introduction 8Legend 12

1 - ROCHER DU CALVAIRE 14

2 - MONT USSY – ROCHE HERCULE 18

3 - ROCHER CASSEPOT 26

4 - ROCHER SAINT GERMAIN 32

5 - ROCHER CANON 44

CUVIER 586 - BAS CUVIER 627 - CUVIER BIVOUAC 888 - CUVIER REMPART 949 - CUVIER MERVEILLE 11410 - CUVIER RECONNAISSANCE 11811 - CUVIER MARE À PIAT 128

APREMONT 13212 - APREMONT GORGES OUEST 13613 - APREMONT GORGES CENTRE 14614 - APREMONT GORGES EST 15615 - APREMONT ENVERS 15616 - VALLON DE LA SOLITUDE 17017 - APREMONT SULLY 17618 - APREMONT BIZONS 182

FRANCHARD ISATIS 19219 - ISATIS CENTRE 19620 - HAUTES PLAINES 21821 - SABLONS 22422 - VOLTANE CARRIERS 228

FRANCHARD CUISINIÈRE 23223 - CUISINIÈRE CENTRE 23624 - CUISINIÈRE SUD 25625 - CUISINIÈRE ERMITAGE RAYMOND 272

GORGES DU HOUX 28026 - GORGES DU HOUX 28427 - PETIT PARADIS 294

28 - SALAMANDRE 298 29 - ROCHER DES DEMOISELLES 304

30 - ROCHER DE BOULIGNY 318

31 - ROCHER D’AVON 326

Summary table 334

N

12

12-18

31

3

23-25

4

56-11

26-27

28

19-22

2930

Pierre-Arnaud Chouvy, ANGLE BEN’S, 7a (P.-A. Chouvy - www.bleau-a-bloc.com) 5

FONTAINEBLEAU

rond point de l’Obélisque

MELUNMELUNPARIS-A6

PARIS-A6

AVON

BARBIZON

MACHERIN

MILLY

D607

D607

NEMOURS-A6URY

D58

D142

D606

D606

D301

D409

D152

8

INTRODUCTION

Total happiness!

What a feeling if you don’t already know Fontaineb-leau and are about to discover this magic place. From the very first pages of this guide you will un-derstand why its sandstone boulders are the most famous in the world of climbing. However if you already know the woods this guide will give you, thanks to the explanations, drawings and photos, a clear and effective means to choose a problem.Given that every climber has a preferred style I’ve made sure that the descriptions mean that you can find the boulder that is exactly the right fit for you.

It is with great pleasure that I give you the chance to choose your next objectives at a glance, sharing with you this wood that I have always considered a fantastic garden.

This first volume presents the sectors close to the city of Fontainebleau. A second guide will cover the sectors around Milly la forêt while the third and last volume will be dedicated to the peripheral sec-tors (around Nemours and the Ferté Alais), to se-cret areas and traverses.

Given the huge expanse of the wood it is impos-sible to cover everything so it was necessary to make some choices. I therefore propose a se-lection of boulders in the middle to high grades, around the 7th grade, though I would like to stress that the line is more important than the number… the other criterion on which the choice is based is the variety of sectors. Apart from the well known and over crowded sectors I will take you on a “walk” in the heart of the woods, far from the park-ing areas, so you can feel the magic of this place.

A quick note on the boulders situated in the more peaceful areas. As they are climbed much less of-ten it could be useful, if not necessary, to bring a brush with you: sometimes the beauty of the line makes the effort of brushing worthwhile.Make sure not to use metal brushes that ruin the rock but something softer.

Before the arrival of climbers it was hikers who walked and explored every corner of this magnifi-

cent wood. There are many walks marked in blue, and today the markings from A to Z are also used to find the boulders. Even with directions and the guidebook in your pocket it is not always easy to find the boulders and this search, taking a longer or shorter time, is itself part of the enjoyment of climbing in these surroundings! It is not an indoor wall but a natural playground that you let yourself (re)discover. Leave yourself to be transported by the fascination of the wood.

Don’t forget that climbers’ are not the only visitors to the wood, nature has to be shared and everyone has to make an effort even if only by not leaving any trace of your passage (cigarette butts, paper, chalk….). Talking of respect for the area small gestures should be enough to preserve the rock and allow climbing to remain enjoyable for future visitors. There is no need to say that holds should absolutely not be chipped and it is warmly recom-mended to clean your shoes before climbing so as not to alter the legendary friction of the rock of Fontainebleau.

9Martin Mayer, Bas Cuvier (N. Altmaier www.NicolasAltmaier.de) 9

10

TECHNICAL INTRODUCTION

Some practical information before starting

PERIODS AND SEASONS RECOMMENDED FOR CLIMBING IN FONTAINEBLEAU

The temperature is rarely very cold; the main prob-lem is the level of humidity that is often very high whatever the time of year. After rain it is advisable to search out the sectors that are more exposed to the sun and to the wind, unfortunately these are relatively rare close to Fontainebleau (chiefly Apre-mont and Cuvier Rempart).Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climb-ing in Fontainebleau due to the colours of the woods and the pleasant temperatures, ideal also for family outings.The best friction conditions are found in winter due to the cold, but the air is often humid so you need to be extremely motivated to climb, above all in January and February. In the summer it is practi-cally impossible to climb due to the heat.

USEFUL LINKS

AreaAs a supplement to information on climbing in Fon-tainebleau the site http://bleau.info/ is still a refer-ence point: it describes many problems, updates the number of repeats and offers photos and vid-eos. The Dutchmen who created it have also pub-lished a guidebook 7+8, a must!

WeatherAs regards the weather the following link gives reli-able forecasts for a three-day period for the city of Fontainebleau, it is not very reliable after 72 hours.h t t p : / / f r a n c e . m e t e o f r a n c e . c o m / f r a n c e /m e t e o ? P R E V I S I O N S _ P O R T L E T .path=previsionsville/771860

SleepingAround Melun, the biggest city of the Seine and Marne, it is relatively easy to find hotels. In the city there is also a campsite.Regarding farm holidays, Bed & breakfasts and campsites the towns around the woods offer nu-merous possibilities.

Addresses and web sites to consult

www.gites-seine-et-marne.com www.gites-de-france-essonne.comwww.resa77.fr

Hostels (booking compulsory):

Base Régionale de Plein Air et de Loisirs de BOIS-le-ROIUCPA Rue de Tournezy77 590 BOIS-le-ROI tel. 01 64 84 33 00 or Sylvie JEANMICHEL : 01 64 81 33 16Web : http://boisleroi.ucpa.com EMail : boisleroi.cial@ucpa.asso.fr

Base Régionale de Plein Air et de Loisirs de BUTHIERS 73, rue des roches77 760 BUTHIERSTel. 01 64 24 12 87 Web : www.base-de-buthiers.com Email : bpa-buthiers@wanadoo.fr

Le ROCHETON Centre International UCJG / YMCA77 000 LA ROCHETTETel. 01 64 37 29 37web : www.rocheton.asso.fr

LE BOIS du LYS Centre International de séjour380 chemin du clocher77 190 DAMMARIE-lès-LYSTel. 01 64 37 15 27 Web : www.boisdulys.comEmail: hebergement@boisdulys.com

Camping outThe National Parks Service has allocated two ar-eas where it is possible to camp for free near the Maisons forestières of Bois-le-Roi and Bourron-Marlotte.

FoodThere are no problems for eating and the city of Fontainebleau is full of life in the evening.

11

SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION

LogisticsA car is indispensable in order to go climbing in the woods of Fontainebleau. Even if there are trains that arrive in the city, the distances to most of the sectors are too far to reach on foot.

The circuitsThe first circuits were put up in the ‘40s when climbers trained at Fontainebleau to prepare them-selves for alpine climbs. The linking of these cir-cuits meant that you could reproduce conditions similar to an alpine route.The more recent circuits were put up in the ‘70s, when climbers started to seek out exploits on boulder problems and single moves. It is from that point on that the level of climbing evolved consid-erably.Today the circuits that are frequently climbed are regularly maintained so climbers can still put them-selves to the test on the concatenation of these famous routes.

The rock The sandstone of Fontainebleau is relatively “soft” with holds that are often compared to bars of soap: never very violent or sharp for the fingers. The only defect of the rock is that it dries very slowly and is more fragile after rain. Often, after heavy thunder-storms, you have to wait at least two days before being able to climb and longer on the north facing boulders.

Style of climbingGenerally there are few very overhanging boul-ders; most of the boulders are vertical or slightly overhanging slabs, a characteristic that makes the climbing very technical: physical strength is not sufficient while mastery of friction is necessary.N.B. to show consideration do not use metal brushes that can ruin the rock, we also recom-mend using a mat to clean from your climbing shoes the grains of sand that ruin the grain of the rock and make it slippery.

The hardest boulders in Fontainebleau

8cKHEOPS Cuvier Rempart sector, first ascent from sit start realised by Antoine Vandeputte (8b if start standing)LE DERNIER FLÉAU Cuvier Rempart sector, freed by Sébastien Frigault

8b+LA FORCE DU DESTIN Franchard Cuisinière Er-mitage sector, freed by Kevin LopataGECKO Rocher de Bouligny sector, freed with sit start by Olivier Lebreton (8b standing start)DUNE Rocher de la Salamandre sector, climbed with sit start by Sébastien Frigault

8bLA PIERRE PHILOSOPHALE Apremont Envers sector, freed by Fred NicoleL’APPAREMMENT Apremont Envers sector, sit start freed by Olivier LebretonL’INSOUTENABLE LÉGÈRETÉ DE L’ÊTRE Fran-chard Isatis sector, first ascent Sébastien FrigaultL’INSOUTENABLE LÉGÈRETÉ DE L’AUTRE Franchard Isatis sector, first ascent Sébastien FrigaultSIDEWAYS DAZE Cuvier Rempart sector, freed by Dave Graham

BibliographyEscalade à Fontainebleau les plus beaux sites et blocsJo Montchaussé, Françoise Montchaussé and Jacky Godoffe Editions Arthaud

Escalade “hors pistes” à Fontainebleau 6 et + Jo Montchaussé, Françoise Montchaussé and Jacky Godoffe Editions Arthaud

Bleau de grès six Dominique & Jean-Jacques Naëls

Essential Fontainebleau Stone Country

Fontainebleau MagiqueJingo Wobbly Publishing

7 + 8: 1789 straight ups in FontainebleauBart Van Raaj

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LEGEND

ALTITUDE BEST PERIOD BEAUTY PARKINGDRYING

DAYSTOTAL NUMBER OF PROBLEMS

FOR FAMILIES

NOT EXCITING DIFFICULT FOR BABIES

NICE SUFFICIENT NOT FOR BABIES

VERY NICE GOOD

SPLENDID VERY GOOD

SHORT BLOCKS MEDIUM BLOCKS HIGH BLOCKS OTHER INFOS GPS COORDINATES

TICKDANGEROUS

BOULDERBEAUTY OF PROBLEM

MARKEDCIRCUITS

ELIMINATINGLINE

ELIMINATINGHOLD

2 m

13Javi Pec, DIVINE DÉCADENCE, 7b+ (A. González) 13

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Nicola Anzoni, CORTOMALTESE, 6c+ (M. Caminati)

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Tanja Wilz, LA NESCAFE, 6a (N. Altmaier www.NicolasAltmaier.de)

The Cuvier sector has always been thought of as a “laboratory of movement” since the first steps of climbers at the beginning of the last century.The closeness of the road, the quantity of prob-lems and the quality of the sandstone still make it the most popular area of the woods.

There are often a huge number of climbers be-cause the mythical boulders that have made Fontainebleau famous have almost all been opened here.

Here as in no other area you will find a friendly at-mosphere and you can exchange beta with local climbers. Some have climbed only in this sector for more than thirty years. Don’t be surprised to meet some “grandpa” topping out on a boulder that you find difficult even to start.

Apart from the problems proposed you can put yourselves to the test on the circuits, there are five marked at Bas Cuvier amongst the most well known and the most challenging to link up.

Some numbers for the Guinness book of records: the 42 problems on the red circuit for example, have been linked up in less than 20 minutes: incredible but true!the white circuit has been done in climbing boots and with a rucksack full of stones (of course there were no problems above grade 7 at that time but try to imagine climbing only one problem that way).

Moving away from Bas Cuvier along the “Route Mory”, or following the Dennecourt path marked in blue, you get to the sector called Cuvier Rem-part where the grades are higher. A smaller number of problems than at Bas Cuvier but all characterised by exceptional lines. Be careful to follow the signed footpaths as it is easy to get lost in this vast area. Between Bas Cuvier and Cuvier Rempart some scattered boulders in the Cuvier Bivouac sector deserve a visit; the pa-tience used in searching out the boulder will be more than repaid by the quality of the problems.A bit farther on along the Route Mory is the sec-tor of the Merveille: as the name implies a real natural marvel.A few hundred metres behind the Merveille, the sector Reconnaissance offers great tranquillity with boulders in the middle grades and slightly lower than average height.Going still farther along the Route Mory you come across the Mare à Piat sector that brings a sense of adventure to the kingdom of boulders.

In short the CUVIER sector hides some climb-ing treasures and remains today as yesterday the Mecca of bouldering at Fontainebleau.A temple to be respected where there remain projects to be opened by future generations

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Jose Carlos GM, LA CLE, 6c+ (J. Pec - www.javipec.blogspot.com)

FONTAINEBLEAU

rond point de l’Obelisque

MELUNMELUNPARIS-A6

PARIS-A6

AVON

BARBIZON

MACHERIN

MILLY

D607

D607

NEMOURS-A6URY

D58

D142

D606

D606

D409

D152

Paris-A6

ParkingN 48° 26.7600’E 2° 38.2458’

APPROACHOn the Route N7 between Barbizon and Fontainebleau at the « l’épine » crossroad. There are two parking areas on the side of the road, one in the direction of Paris the other in the direction of Fontainebleau. The first boulders of Bas Cuvier are already visible from the parking area.

N

61Michele Caminati, KHEOPS, 8b (M. Caminati) 61

aire de stationnement du Carrefour de l’Epine

route nationale 7D607

route du Luxembourg

route Mory

sentier bleu n°5

BASCUVIER

CUVIERBIVOUAC

CUVIERREMPART

MERVEILLE

RECONNAISSANCE

MARE À PIAT

tunnel

Fontainebleau

Paris-A6

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100 3 118

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BAS CUVIER has always been a forge of move-ment since the origins of bouldering at the begin-ning of the 20th century.Here the best climbers of every era have imag-ined and climbed ever more difficult problems helped by the large number of boulders avail-able, the proximity of the parking area and above all the characteristics of the rock: many slopers, slightly overhanging and a kind of climbing which requires a solid technical background.You will note many chipped holds, a practice that lasted only a few years between 1950 and 1960 due to the large number of climbers in that era and their common aim to progress. Today we know that improving the holds is not part of the game: a fundamental rule of bouldering.For each era there are boulders that we can cite as reference points and that have become the symbol of a style and class of climber: all prob-lems which even today should definitely be tried.In the ’50s MARIE ROSE was without doubt the 6a with most attempts at Fontainebleau; in the ’70s the first 7a: L’ABATTOIR, that is still today a serious challenge; in the ’80s the strength re-quired to do ABBÉ RÉSINA represented a turning point, a real watershed with respect to boulders freed before that point.In the wake of this more “athletic” tendency the must of the ’90s became LA BALANCE.From then on almost all problems have been freed, but that which is most striking is the in-crease in the number of climbers and hence the methods used for climbing: a diversification that on one side has eliminated the morphological dif-ferences between climbers and on the other side has brought two very different types of climbing:

compression on slopers and crimping on “finger nail” micro holds. Leaving room for everyone to take their preferred style to the limit. One of the emblematic examples of this evolution from the start of the new millennium is the new IMOTHEP that combines compression moves with an out of the ordinary level of exposure (the boulder is about 5 metres high), and RAIDEUR DIGESTE: slab on microscopic holds very rarely repeated because of the strength and technique required.There are very few lines still to be exploited, all characterised by the need for both a lot of strength and technical ability.

APPROACHOn the Route N7 between Barbizon and Fon-tainebleau at the « l’épine » crossroad. There are two parking areas on the side of the road, one in the direction of Paris the other in the direction of Fontainebleau.The first boulders of BAS CUVIER are already visible from the parking area.

Height of boulders: from 3 to 5 metres

Type of Climbing: slopersLength of approach: none

Parking N 48° 26.7600’, E 2° 38.2458’IMOTHEPN 48° 26.9112’, E 2° 38.3428’

5 MARKED CIRCUITS

Orange

Blue

Red

Black

White

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16

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17

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3738

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63

PARIS

FONTAINEBLEAU

versRempart

route de la solitude

300 m.

route du Sanglier

D60

7

sentier bleu n° 3

64

BA

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BOULDER 1

A - LA LILI 6c ** A superb and technical pillar in spite of a limitation: the holds on the left are out of bounds

B - LA POGNE 6a * A bit painful for the left hand

BOULDER 1

C - LA CROIX DE FER 7b * Often covered with moss as rarely repeated

BOULDER 2

A - COUP DE BAMBOU 6c * Sit start, a not very high boulder

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22

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4

BOULDER 3

A - 6b * A dyno move on a great vertical face

BOULDER 4

A - AERODYNAMITE 7c **** A reference point for dyno starts, easier for taller people

B - AERODYNAMITE ASSIS 7c+ ** Sit start, ball on the right out of bounds and combination of un-intuitive moves to avoid the dyno start

C - LE TROU DU SIMON 6a *** Superb mantle

D - L’EMPORTE PIECE 6a * Interesting and original crack problem where you need to avoid remaining inside the crack

BOULDER 5

A - LA POIGNE 6c * Technical slab principally because not much for feet

B - PLATINIUM 7a * Very demand-ing for the feet