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© Netplan - Internet solutions for tourism© Netplan - Internet solutions for tourism

AGRIGENTO CITY

THE

GUIDE


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© Netplan - Internet solutions for tourism

© 2005 Netplan srl.All rights reserved.All material on this document is © Netplan.Photos courtesy of: AAPIT Agrigento and APT Trapani


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THE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE 1


THINGS TO KNOW

3 Getting there4 History and culture

THINGS TO SEE

5 Churches and Museums

7 Valley of the Temples

THINGS TO TRY

9 Eating and Drinking

10 Shopping

11 Hotels and lodgings

THINGS TO EXPERIENCE

12 Events

ITINERARIES

14 Beaches, marinas and nature reserves

15 The Etruscan coast

16 Volterra and Val di Cecina

Summary


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/ THINGS TO KNOW / THINGS TO KNOWTHE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE 3


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THE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE

connections to other destinations in Sicilyare scarce. If you are arriving from Taorminaor Catania, you will have to change trainsonce or twice. For train schedules, consultTrenitalia’s website, or call their toll-freenumber: 89 20 21. The best way to arriveand depart to and from Agrigento is by bus,which leaves from the Piazza Rosselli station(Tourist Information +39.0922.20391).

By plane: Palermo Airport (PMO) offersdirect flights from all major Italian airports,and low-cost connections with Europeancities such as Amsterdam, Barcelona, Köln,London, and others. From the airport, theshuttle train “Trinacria Express” leaves aboutevery half hour from Palermo Central Station,with many trains going to Agrigento (about a2 hour trip). There is also a bus service which

runs from the airport directly to Agrigento,operated by SAL (Phone: +39.0922.401360).An alternative is the International Airport ofCatania (CTA) which offers connections withall the major Italian and European airports,including all the capital cities. SAIS Trasportioperates a bus service running directly fromthe airport to Agrigento (about a 2.5 hourtrip).

Agrigento lies along the south coast of Sicily,connected to the rest of the island by anextensive network of streets and by rail.

By car: from Taormina, take the AutostradaA18 for Catania. Continue on the A19 towardPalermo and take the Caltanissetta exit.Continue on Statale 640 until you reachAgrigento. From Palermo, take Autostrada A19toward Catania, and exit at Villabate. FollowStatale 121 and continue for 118 km untilyou reach Agrigento. From Siracusa, follow

the coastal route on Statale 115 via Noto,Ragusa and Gela until you reach Agrigento.If you are coming from continental Italy,take Autostrada A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria,and exit at Villa San Giovanni, then take theferryboat for Messina. From Messina, take theAutostrada A18 for Catania. Continue on theA19 toward Catania-Palermo and take theCaltanissetta exit. Continue on Statale 640until you reach Agrigento.

By train: Agrigento has a train station, butexcept for Palermo (about 2 hours away),

Getting there

Agrigento: the Temple of the Dioscuri

History and culture

the Arab and Norman occupations. In the 9thcentury, the Arabs built a new city, which stillstands today as both medieval and modernAgrigento. In 1087, they were succeeded bythe Norman occupation. With the constructionof numerous churches, the Normans gave newlife to the Christian arts and culture. Thefortifications they built defended Agrigentofrom the incursions of Saracen pirates.The 18th century marked another cardinalmoment for the history of the city: theflowering of the baroque period in Agrigento,evident today in nearly all the churches in thecity. In the following years, the ci ty sufferedunder the ill-governing of the Bourbons, as didall of Sicily, until 1860, when Sicily officiallylinked itself with the Kingdom of Italy. The20th century marked the advent of chaoticconstruction development in the city, which

has threatened the very integrity of thearcheological zone.

The history of Agrigento begins in 581b.C., when it was founded under the nameof Akragas by a group of Greek colonists.The city reached the height of its splendorin the 5th century B.C. under the tyrantTenore, who extended his dominion out to thenorthern coasts of Sicily. During this period,art and culture were intensely pursued in thecity. It was in this period that the temple ofOlympian Zeus was constructed, as well mostof the other temples, rendering Agrigento,according to the Greek poet Pindaro, “The

most beautiful among the dwellings ofmortals.” The year 406 was a tragic one in thehistory of Agrigento: the city was defeatedby Hannibal and the Carthaginians, whocompleted destroyed the city. Agrigento wasrefounded in the 4th century by the statesmanand general Timoleon. During this period,the new Hellenic quarter was constructed,signaling the grand rebirth of Hellenistic artand culture in Agrigento, until 210 B.C., whenthe city came under Roman rule.After the fall of Imperial Rome, the city didnot return to its former splendor until after

Mazara del Vallo: Regional Archeological Museum


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/ THINGS TO SEE / THINGS TO SEETHE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE 5


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unfinished bell tower, which is embellishedby a richly decorated balcony. The inside,divided in three naves, is a triumph of baroquedecoration. But perhaps most impressive isthe wood ceiling, richly adorned so that itappears to be a hanging garden. Make sure tovisit the chapel of San Gerlando, in the righttransept.

The Church of Santo Spiritois a Cistercian convent, constructed in 1260,its beautiful gothic portal surmounted by arose window. The inside is a single nave withenclosed sculptures in stucco. Make sure tovisit the adjoining convent, with its beautifulcloister, where you can purchase local sweetsof almonds and pistachios, made by the nunswho live here.

Regional Archaeological MuseumHours: Open every day from 9:00 a.m. to12:30 p.m.Located between the modern city andthe Valley of the Temples, in the centerof the Hellenistic-Roman quarter. The 18-room museum holds numerous interestingfindings from Agrigento and the surroundingregion, arranged by expository theme. Themuseum contains an outstanding collectionof Attic vases, including the famous Craterof Dionysus, as well as the marble statue ofEphebus of Agrigento, a young athlete wholived in the 5th century B.C.

Church of San NicolaNext to the Archeological Museum stands theChurch of San Nicola.This church, constructed in the 13th century,is made of volcanic rock taken from ruins ofthe Temple of Zeus.Entering through the beautiful Romanesqueportal, you will come upon the unique nave.The second chapel to the left contains theRoman sarcophagus of Hippolitus and Phaedra,much loved by Goethe during his stay inAgrigento. The sarcophagus is decorated withbas-reliefs telling the tragic story of Phaedra

Agrigento, medieval and modern, rises fromthe tops of the hills that dominate the Valleyof the Temples. The nucleus of the city is alabyrinth of alleyways and courtyards with aclassically Arab flavor. Entering this labyrinth,one discovers a treasure trove of churchesand buildings.

The entry into the medieval city is Aldo Morosquare. From here begins the 18th centuryVia Atenea, flanked by old buildings, shopsand pleasant cafés. Along Via Atenea lies the

baroque church of San Lorenzo; to the leftof the church is the open entrance to theancient hypogeum, a web of subterraneanaqueducts built in the 5th century B.C.

The Cathedralcan be reached by going up the alleys fromPiazza Pirandello. The building is precededby a spectacular grand staircase. Itsconstruction dates from the 11th century, butit has undergone many alterations throughthe centuries, giving it a completely uniqueappearance. The façade is flanked by an

Churches and Museums

Agrigento: the Cathedral

and her stepson Hippolitus, who was exiled orkilled by order of Phaedra because he did notreturn her love.

Pirandello’s HouseSouth of Agrigento and the Valley of theTemples, lies the birthplace of the playwrightPirandello. The house has been convertedinto a museum, preserving both written andgraphic materials: family photos, portraits ofthe writer, theatrical images, manuscripts,and editions of theatrical works and novels.Make sure to follow the short path throughthe pines, where Pirandello loved to sitand contemplate. This is where the authorwanted to be buried. A simple stone marker,retouched by the sculptor Mazzacurati, guardsthe urn containing the ashes of the Master.


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THE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE/ THINGS TO SEE / THINGS TO SEE

The Temple of Giunoneat the far end of the hill of temples, is identicalin dimension to the Temple of Concordia. Theview from the Valley of the Temples is simplystriking. The edifice holds 40 columns, 16 withcapitals. To the east lie the sacrificial altars,which according to Greek religious practiceswere located outside of the temple.

The temple of Herculesis the most ancient of the Agrigento’stemples. It was built in peripteral hexastyle(an architectural style using a single row ofcolumns on all sides, and 6 frontal columnsin the portico) but on the long sides it had 15columns instead of the usual 14. There are 8of this type of temple standing on the southside. The ruins clearly show that the templewas destroyed by an earthquake. To the

south of the Temple of Hercules stands theTemple of Terone, a truly imposing sepulchralmonument, made up of two superimposedsections: a nearly cubical podium and a kindof small Doric temple with false doors andangular Ionic columns.

The Temple of Olympian Zeusof which remains only massive ruins, was oneof the largest buildings of Greek architecture,measuring 112.60 by 56.30 meters. It was builtin 480 b.C. in honor of Zeus, after the greatvictory brought against the Carthaginians.The shape of this temple was absolutelyunique due to its feature of having a wall

surrounding the temple with half-columnsemerging up from it. Between them stoodimpressive statues of giants, the telamones,which functioned as load-bearing supports forthe structure. A copy of one of these giantsremains among the ruins, while the originalsare on display at the Archeological Museum.

In the area of the Valley of the Temples alsolie the less preserved of the other sacredbuildings, like the Temple of Asclepion, theTemple of Castor and Pollux and the Templeof Ephestus.

Valley of the Temples is the most renownedattraction in Agrigento, a large archeologicalsite containing the remains of various Dorictemples dating from the 5th century B.C.Hours are from 9:00 a.m. to sunset. A fee isrequired to enter.

The Temple of Concordiaerected around 430 B.C., is the best-preserved among the Doric temples of theGreek world, and one of the most beautiful inproportion and harmony of form. It is a four-

sided structure measuring 20 by 42 meters.The elegant and airy colonnade, following theclassic model, has 6 by 13 columns, each of aheight of 6.75 meters. The temple underwentmajor transformation and adaptations afterthe 6th century A.D., when Bishop Gregorytransferred the seat of the cathedral toAgrigento. Because of this, the temple wassaved from the destruction wrought uponthe other temples at the hands of Christianfanaticism. North of the temple extends thePaleochristian Byzantine Necropolis, a vastcomplex of open-air tombs.

Agrigento: the Temple of Concordia

Valley of the Temples

Hellenistic-Roman QuarterLeaving the Hill of Temples and coming towardthe city, we come upon the excavations of theHellenistic-Roman quarter, a zone comprisedof 4 parallel centers, from which emergeddwellings and shops dating from betweenthe 3rd century B.C. and 4th century A.D.Many dwellings are decorated with mosaics ofvarious kinds and constructions. Note also thepresence of wells, cisterns and sewer systemswith which the city was equipped.


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THE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE/ THINGS TO TRY / THINGS TO TRY

Via Atenea is the main commercial street inAgrigento and the “living room” of the city.The street is extensive, winding betweenancient buildings and churches of varyingstyles. Do as the Agrigenti do, and take thetraditional “passeggiata” (walk) to do someshopping.

The artisans of Agrigento sell their originalcreations, such as their ancient tradition ofobjects and sculptures made out of cork, orterracotta, carpets, wrought iron, wicker

and traditional musical instruments. Realconnoisseurs can observe the constructionof the ciaramedde, unique Sicilian bagpipesrequiring a complex manufacturing process,which is remembered and practiced by only afew remaining artisans in the area.In Casteltermini, a city north of Agrigento,saddles and accessories for horseback ridingare produced.

Shopping

Trapani: traditional coral traditions

By virtue of its location on a hillside, yetonly 4 kilometers from the sea, the cuisine ofAgrigento encompasses both the traditions ofthe sea and those purely from the countryside,and as in the rest of Sicily, it is rich in theinfluences of other cultures, especially Arab.

The restaurants of Agrigento offer fantasticantipasti, typically Mediterranean, and madewith simple and flavorful ingredients: saltedanchovies, olives, vegetables preserved inoil, sundried tomatoes or the traditional

dish called “pitaggio”, made of fresh favabeans, peas, and artichokes. Sicily also offersdelicious variations on pizza: layers of puffpastry stuffed with various ingredients; atleast try one of the “sfincioni”, the “miscati”the “mignolate” or the “cuddruni”.

First-course dishes are a triumph of pasta.Among the most popular recipes is “cavatelli”(a kind of pasta) with tomatoes and eggplant,or with fava beans and ricotta. Often you findpasta prepared with fish, as in the famous“pasta con le sarde” (pasta with sardines),

Eating and Drinking

Agrigento: cous-cous and fish

often embellished with exotic touches likefennel and pistachios.

Among the meats, the cuisine of Agrigentofeatures roasted goat and barbequed lamb.In the winter, you can enjoy pork, sweet andsour duck, or barbequed sausage flavoredwith fennel and peppers. Meats are alwaysaccompanied by flavorful seasonal vegetabledishes, prepared in various styles. Not to bemissed is “caponata”, a dish of fried mixedvegetables, served cold.

Fish has an important place on the tablesof Agrigento, given its vicinity to the sea.All types of fish are used in the most variedrecipes. The most common dish, however, issole, stuffed sardines with nutmeg, and theexquisite dentex in meat broth.

Finally, dessert: it would take too much spaceto enumerate here the specialties of Sicilianpastry. They are among the most original andrenowned in all of Italy. Be sure to make yourway into a pastry shop, and let your curiositybe your guide. Buon appetito!


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Sciacca. From his wagon comes the traditionaldistribution of candies, wine, and sausageto the crowd, prepared in the back end ofthe wagon. The evening of Fat Tuesday, theend of the event, the pyre of Peppe Nappais started: everyone gathers around the King,throwing thousands of carnival hammers onthe flaming puppet.

The Festival of San Calogero, in JulySan Calogero, the “Black Saint”, is certainlythe most loved by the Agrigenti. The festivitieslast for 8 days, from the first to the secondSunday in July.It is difficult to describe this festival in theusual terms it unites mysticism, ancienttraditions and profound Christian faith,radiating an energy that is difficult todescribe. The festival culminates with the

procession of sacred figures of the Saint,accompanied by the sounds of the tambourine,recalling the ancient Arab presence on theisland. One characteristic of the festival isthe preparation of typical bread loafs, withsesame seeds and fennel, which are thrownbefore the saint’s cart in the procession, asdictated by tradition.

Blues & Wine Soul Festival, in JulyThe Blues & Wine Soul Festival is a big wineand music event, three phenomenal daysdedicated to the biggest stars from abroad,in the heart of the Valley of the Templesarcheological park.

The event joins together the best blues, soul,and gospel with the tasting of Sicilian wines.While the Hammonds and guitars of some ofthe biggest international blues & soul artistsvibrate onstage, the best vintners of Sicilyand of Italy present their own products, andprofessional sommeliers guide the public inwine tastings.By day, educational visits are organizedin the wineries, as well as conferenceson safeguarding the environment andviticulture.

The Almond Blossom Festival, in FebruaryThis event takes place during the first half ofFebruary, in the breathtaking Valley of theTemples in Agrigento. The celebrations includecostumed parades, shows, and concerts.For many years, The Almond Festival hasbeen supported by the International FolkloreFestival (or Ethnic Almond Festival), acompetition between folklore groups dividedinto three categories: dance, traditionalcostumes, and music. Through the years, thefestival has attained international renown,bringing together folklore groups from aroundthe world who come to Agrigento to promoteand preserve their own popular traditions.

The Carnival of Sciacca, in FebruaryThe Carnival of Sciacca is one of the mostfamous in Sicily and Italy for the sumptuousnessof its allegorical wagons.The main event of the Carnival is the paradeof allegorical wagons, which takes placeevery day from Saturday to Tuesday. The mostunique part of the Carnival is the wagon of“Peppe Nappa”, the King of the Carnival of

Events

Agrigento: Almond Blossom Festival

/ THINGS TO TRY / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE

Agrigento has a good selection of lodgings,particularly 3 and 4 star hotels. According toyour needs and your budget, you can chooseyour lodging from amongst any number ofhotels, agritourist lodgings, or bed-and-breakfasts.If you prefer a full service hotel, whether afew steps from the Valley of the Temples oron the beach of San Leone, Travelplan canhelp you find a hotel in Agrigento. If you needa more economical solution, but still desireall the urban comforts, why not opt for a

bed-and-breakfast in Agrigento? If you’remore interested in contact with nature,try the many different farmhouse lodgings,or agriturismi, available in Agrigento,immersed in the rough and wild beauty of theMediterranean countryside.

Hotels and lodgings

Selinunte: archeological park Temple E


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THE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE/ THINGS TO EXPERIENCE / THINGS TO EXPERIENCE

Pirandello Week, in DecemberInternational convention of Pirandello studies.An event articulated by themes ranging fromliterature to cinema to theatre, and with aunique structure employing schools from 30provinces.Students assemble in Agrigento for theconference, with time to make visits to theplaces Pirandello lived, worked, and visited.This event is organized by the National Centerfor the Study of Pirandello.The Center was founded in 1967 with theaim of promoting international encountersbetween critics and students, and thecollection of all testimonials to the work ofLuigi Pirandello.

beach lie the ruins of the Greek-Roman cityof Eraclea.

SciaccaThis Agrigentan town is famous for its carnival,its hot spring and its baroque and medievalarchitectural beauty, but it preserves a little-known jewel: the Arab quarter.

Sciacca has very ancient origins, even theGreeks exploited the therapeutic propertiesof its natural “ovens”. Greeks, Romans,Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards left a pieceof their culture that we still find today inthe artistic heritage of the city and in itspopular traditions. In 1831, Sciacca was theprotagonist in an extraordinary geologicalevent: a volcanic island emerged from thesea in front of the city, and it sunk after only

six months: the Ferdinandea Island.

The city is an intricate labryinth of alleyways,into which open up piazzas that hold beautifulchurches and buildings. Sights you shouldsee:

The Cathedral (Duomo), of Norman origins(1108), was expanded in 1656 on the plansof Michele Blasco. The incomplete baroquefaçade is missing one of two belltowers; onthe sides there are statues of Antonio andGian Domenico Gagini from the 16th century.On the inside are three naves, holding manyworks of art, among which are various

sculptures dated from the 16th century.The Church of Collegio, which is rich insidewith paintings, among those the Adoration ofthe Magi by Giovanni Portalone, and a SaintJohn the Baptist attributed to Domenichino.The Church of Santa Margherita, renovated inthe 1500’s, is interesting for its RenaissanceGothic portal and, inside, the stuccopolychromes and frescoes.The Steripinto is a singular building from the1500s, in the Sicilian-Catalonian style. thefacade is notable for its tiny conches pointedwith diamonds and battlements with a mask

This itinerary carries you to the discovery ofthe coast between Agrigento and Selinunte,touching the historical city of Sciacca to arriveat the final destination: the archeologicalmarvels of Selinunte.

The coast between Agrigento and Sciaccais dotted with gorgeous, yet still-unknownbeaches: long, white, sandy beaches encircledby sand dunes and white cliffs. Coming fromAgrigento, there are three beaches you shouldvisit:

The Turkish Stairs near Realmente, a whitecliff that the wind has shaped like anenormous staircase plunging into the sea.Torre Salsa: between Siculiana Marina andEraclea Minoa extends the World WildlifeFederation reserve of Torre Salsa, where chalkcliffs alternate with long, golden beaches.Beach access points are varied and can befound in Montallegro.Eracelea Minoa: a white, sandy shore of 5km, circled by a dune and protected by acompact forest. In the coastal waters of the

To Sciacca and Selinunte

Eraclea Minoa Coast


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still continue; the many findings discovered atSelinunte are preserved in the ArcheologicalMuseum of Palermo and the Civic Museumof Castelvetrano. Archeological ParkInformation: Telephone: +39 0924 46251

in the center, a Renaissance portal, andelegant double lancet window.The arts and crafts of Sciacca express thebest of majolica, traditional Sicilian paintedearthenware. The ceramics here follow anancient tradition dating from medieval times.The glasswork of Sciacca adorns almost all thenoble buildings of Agrigento from the 14th tothe 18th century.

SelinunteIn the center of the biggest archeological parkin the Mediterranean, Selinute greets visitorswith its ruins of colossal Greek temples. Itwas founded in 650 B.C. or in 627 B.C., ona sea promontory between two rivers, whoseestuary was then navigable. Selinunte wasa thriving and prosperous city, but in 409B.C. was conquered and destroyed by the

Carthaginians. Those same Carthaginiansdestroyed it later on during the first Punicwar, to prevent it from falling into the handsof the Romans.

The archeological area opens with theeastern hills, where the remains of threelarge Doric temples lie: Temple G, dedicatedto Zeus, today is completely in ruins. It wasone of the largest temples in antiquity: itmeasured 113 by 54 meters, with columnsstanding 16 meters high. Temple F, dedicatedto Athena, is the smallest of the temples.Dating from the end of the 6th century B.C.,today it is completely destroyed. Temple

E, dedicated to Hera, is the most striking,thanks to the reconstruction undertakenby archeologists in the 1950s. Beyond theeastern hill extends the area of the Acropolis,on which was discovered the remains of 5Doric temples. Around the Acropolis werediscovered fortifications made of squaredblocks (from the 5th and 6th centuries). Tothe north and to the west of the Acropolis lietwo great necropolises, still in excavation,containing dozens of excavated tombs ofvolcanic rock and sarcophagi of terracotta.The excavations of the archeological area

/ ITINERARIES / ITINERARIES

it Mars-el-Allah (port of God). The Normansconquered Marsala in 1072, erecting a castleand constructing churches and convents.The name of the city is connected to thefamous wine that has been produced here sincethe end of the 8th century. An enterprisingEnglishman, John Woodhouse, establishedthe first wine factory that produced marsala,which went on to have such a large part in theeconomic fortunes of the city.

The Cathedral (Duomo), constructed bythe Normans and largely remodeled in thesucceeding centuries. The building facedominates the piazza in Doric style, with18th century elements like the portal and thedisplays on the windows.Behind the Duomo, don’t miss the TapestryMuseum, with 8 beautiful Flemish tapestries

from the 16th century, representing scenesfrom the war of Tito against the Judeans.

On the seafront lies the RegionalArchaeological Museum, where visitors canadmire Punic findings from the Isle of Moziaand from the necropolises of Lilibeo. In onelarge room the remains of a Punic nave arepreserved, a unique example of this type ofnave which was discovered in the Stagnonelagoon.Continuing along the seafront, down to theeasternmost point of the city, we come uponan archeological park containing remainsof a Roman city from the 3rd or 4th century

B.C.: remains of dwellings, a bathhouse andsome lovely polychromatic mosaics.

Another important attraction of Marsalaare the historical Florio wine cellars, twocenturies old (Lungomare Florio, 1 Marsala+39 0923 781111), where you can observe theproduction processes of this lovely aromaticwine.

The saltworksThe coast from Marsala to Trapani ischaracterized by one of the landscapes

This itinerary carries you along the ancientSalt Route, next to the extreme west cornerof Sicily, where a fine historical heritage andabsolutely unique natural features await thetourist. Come with us to discover why...

Lodging: According to your needs and yourbudget, you can choose your lodgings fromamong any number of options, includinghotels of every kind, or comfortable bed-and-breakfasts at Trapani, Erice, or Marsala. Ifyou’re looking for a unique experience, optfor one of the many agritourism lodgings,or charming and hospitable residence hotelsin a real “baglio”, or ancient Sicilian farm,immersed in the country or looking out overthe sea.

MarsalaMarsala is a gorgeous city of art, rich in Punic,Roman, Norman, Arab, and Spanish heritage.It was founded by the Carthaginians at thebeginning of the 4th century B.C. under thename of Lilibeo, but during medieval times,it was conquered by the Arabs, who called

The Salt Route: Trapani, Ericeand Marsala

Trapani: panorama with Egadi Islands


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of mixed marble and, in the main altar, abas-relief by Marabiti, representing MariaImmacolata.The Cathedral, constructed in the 17thcentury, guards within it some funerarymonuments and a crucifix, which someattribute to Anthony Van Dyck.

In the ancient Jewish quarter, along ViaGiudecca, it is worth the trouble to stopin front of the Giudecca Palazzo, from the16th century, constructed in the Spanishplateresque style.

The Sanctuary of Annunziata is an originalchurch from the 15th century, with rosewindow and portal from the 1400s, thebelltower from 1650. Inside it containsbeautiful chapels, rich in masterpieces. The

most celebrated and lovely chapel is theChapel of the Madonna. On the main altarthere is a statue of the Virgin: the Madonna ofTrapani, by Nino Pisano, extremely veneratedby the Trapanese. It is a true and inimitablemasterpiece of sculpture.

The former convent of the Annunciationhosts the Pepoli National Museum which,for the richness and variety of its collections,is considered one of the most importantmuseums in Sicily, and worth a visit just forits striking ambiance. The first floor hosts thepicture gallery, which collects many preciouspaintings, including a Pietà masterpiece by

Roberto Oderisio from 1380. Don’t miss theartistic creations in coral (necklaces, sacredfurnishings and nativity figurines), which bearwitness to the artistic quality achieved by theartisans of Trapani.

The procession of the Mysteries: ofexceptional power is the procession of theSaint Friday, when the Mysteries, ancientwooden statues that represent scenes from thePassion of Christ, are carried on the shouldersin an imposing procession that covers, for24 consecutive hours, the streets of the

most peculiar to Sicily: the saltworks. Largemirrors of saltwater form an irregular andmulticolored chessboard, where for centuriesthe precious substance has been produced. Insome areas you can see a windmill, which atone time served to pump water and grind thesalt.Among the most beautiful of these are theSaltworks of Trapani and Paceco, which areprotected by the World Wildlife Federationfor their role as home to around 170 differentbird species, including flamingos, storks,cranes, and herons.

The saltworks visitor center can be foundat Nubia, just below Trapani on the coastalroad SP 21. In a 300-year old salt house, theMuseum of Salt was instituted, illustratingthe phases of salt production and some of

the equipment utilized for its extractionand collection. By night, nature offers mostbeautiful sunsets in Sicily, with colors thatshift from red to orange to pink, encirclingthe ancient mills and the silhouettes of theEgadi Islands.

TrapaniTrapani, of winding design and baroquearchitecture in bright stone, extends outinto the sea in its characteristic shape of ascythe, with the majestic Tower of Lignyrising from its extreme point. Under Arabdominion, Trapani was a flowering center for

the production of salt, tuna, and coral. In the16th century, Trapanese coral artisans madethe city famous throughout the Old World.A gorgeous collection of works in coral ispreserved in the Pepoli Museum.

Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street ofthe old city, is flanked by baroque churchesand buildings:The Jesuit Church of Collegio, from the 17thcentury, has a wonderful baroque facade ofgreat relief moldings. Inside there are threenaves, with some notable 18th-century altars

Every summer Erice hosts the famous Weekof Medieval and Renaissance Music, whichattracts internationally famous artists and agreat many fans.

historical center, while from the balconies,onlookers throw down flower petals.

EriceIt is the best-known city of this edge ofSicily, and with good reason. Located in apanoramic position 750 feet above sea level,Erice preserves whole all the fascinationof an ancient medieval village, with littlepiazzas, winding streets, gorgeous floweringcourtyards and more than 60 small churches.The view from here can span over all ofeastern Sicily, over Trapani, Marsala, and theEgadi Islands.

Erice was founded in the 7th century b.C.by the Elymians, who erected the templededicated to the worship of their fertilitygoddess. Afterward, the Greek worshipped

Aphrodite and Roman Venus. On the ruins ofthe Temple stands today the Castle of Venus,from the Norman times.

The historical center is surrounded byCyclopian walls of Punic origin (6th centuryb.C.). The Normans opened up three ports(Trapani, Carmine, and Spada).Entering through the port of Trapani, onecomes upon the Duomo (cathedral), erectedin the 14th century in Gothic style. Theisolated belltower served also as a lookouttower for defense of the city.The inside was rebuilt in the 19th century inNeogothic style.

Southeast of the inhabited areas, above anelusive rock from where the Temple of Venusarises, the Normans erected the grandioseCastle of Venus, an impregnable fortress indefense of the city, sometime between the12th and 14th centuries. Some towers andwalls still remain from this castle. To theleft of the Norman castle rises the Castle ofBalio (the governor), constructed by CountPepoli in the 1800’s and the medieval Normantowers, restored by the Count during thesame period.

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THE AGRIGENTO CITY GUIDE/ ITINERARIES / ITINERARIES

themselves to the enchantment of the islandfor a longer period, we advise you to renta vacation house or apartment, ideal fora relaxing family vacation. With a smallerbudget, one can opt for an bed-and-breakfast,or a guesthouse in the Egadis, while camperswill find some quality campgrounds atFavignana.

Favignanawith its typical butterfly shape, is the biggestisland of the Egadis. Arriving by boat, one isimmediately greeted with the elegance of thePalazzo Florio. The Florio was constructed in1874 when the old tonnare (the extensivebuildings used for tuna working) wereacquired, and which still today dominatethe port of Favignana. Until the 1800’s, thetuna industry of Favigana was created around

Palazzo Florio, one of the biggest industrialfood complexes in the world, at the vanguardof conservation activity and packing of tuna.Today the tonnare are in disuse, but theywill soon be converted into a museum andcultural center.The historical center gravitates around thePiazza Madrice, which contains a baroquechurch, shops, bars, and gelato shops. It isalways crowded, especially in the summer. Itis possible to lose one’s self in the streets ofthe 17th century center, among the simplehouses, which hide gardens that diffuse thescents of flowers and aromatic herbs into theair.

Leaving the town, there appears an island inall its rough beauty. The Mediterranean brushcovers vast expanses: thistles, prickly pearsand agave make this landscape extraordinarilyfascinating.The coast is scattered with cliffs andcoves: Cala Rossa is really the best-known:viewing it from above its fortresses gives anindescribable feeling. Abandoning one’s selfto the care of the sun and the sea, and to thebeautiful Cala Azzurra, Cala Stornello, andCala Rotonda surely will one’s expectationswill not go unfulfilled. A boat trip allows you

The Egadi are three distant islands, a fewthousand meters from the coast of Trapani.You can arrive there in a few minutes thanksto the many connections from the port ofTrapani, yet just visiting the Egadi, one feelsfar away from everything, immersed in apristine environment of rare beauty. Theseislands are a little outside of time, where thetourist can abandon themselves happily to therhythm of life so different from their own.

How to get there: transportation fromTrapani to the Egadi Islands is by boat,hydrofoil, and ferry, operated by Tirrenia(CallCenter 892 123 from cell phones, or fromabroad +39.081.8449297) and Ustica Lines(information and reservations at 0923873813).

Where to stay: The Egadi islands offerdifferent arrangements depending on yourneeds and your budget. There is a moderatechoice of hotels and tourist villages, withvarious degrees of comfort, services andprices. For those who want to abandon

The Egadi islands

Egadi Islands: Favignana, traditional tuna fishing

If you’re looking for urban comforts andnightlife, this is not the place: there areonly a few such facilities on the island.Marettimo is instead ideal for lovers of

trekking and swimming. The rich depths arejustly protected in the Egadi Marine NatureReserve.

An island boat trip (ask the local fishermen)is intensely exciting. The eastern coast offersmore complex scenery: very high fortressesrising up from the turquoise sea, wheremarine grottos open up to create fantasticplays of light. Some are so vast that theyallow access to two or three boats at a time.

History has also left its traces on Marettimo:a mule track that rises from the port city tothe rest of the Roman houses, while on the

point of Troia, inaccessible as an eagle’s nest,overhangs a castle to the left, which wasmade into a prison by the Bourbons.

to discover the grottoes that open up to thesea and the less-accessible solitary beaches.

The old tuff stone quarries

concentrated in the northeast of Favignana,are another attraction not to be missed.In ancient times this volcanic rock was theprincipal resource for the inhabitants of theisland: the blocks of tuff, extracted usinglong hand saws, were taken across the sea onboard sailing ships for export to all of Sicilyand North Africa. Today these quarries, whichmake this landscape unique, are becominglarge vegetable gardens and undergroundflower gardens, where capers and otheraromatic Mediterranean plants grow.

LevanzoTo the north of Favignana emerges the island

of Levanzo, the smallest of the Egadi islands.The island has high and steep coasts whichare intact and beautiful, a truly pristineparadise for those who love a more quietkind of tourism. Life goes at a slow pace,completely removed from the world of home.Levanzo is an island to explore by foot, alongthe paths that rise toward the mountain andalong the coasts.

There is a unique little town on the island,overlooking it like a terrace over the littleport, where islanders and tourists live elbowto elbow.

A boat ride will allow you to discover thenorth coast, rising straight from the ocean,and to explore coves accessible only bysea. Those who love history cannot miss theGrotto of the Genovese: it is a large cavernwith prehistoric paintings and graffiti inside,with scenes of hunting and fishing from morethan 10 million years ago.

Marettimois the furthest away and the most wild ofthe three Egadis, an island that is extremelydominated by the bulk of Monte Falcone.


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