PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 18/2011

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

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AN ITALIAN IN NYC

EASTER PICS

CHOCOLATEENTREMETSAND GELATO RECIPES

SUGAR, COFFEE AND CUISINE

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT

NEWS

Via Tagliamento, 78 - 30030 Mellaredo di Pianiga (VE) - ItalyTel. +39 041 5190550 Fax +39 041 5190290www.silikomart.com

• Easy to take the product out of the mould• No need for a blowtorch• No need for Clingfilm• Reduction in production time• An insert mould corresponds to each

TOR diameter• Shockproof polycarbonate tray included• Easy to store

It’s time for comfort.

MADE IN ITALY

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REGISTERED DESIGN

PastInternaz_220x320-EN_genn11.indd 1 21/12/10 18.23

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia ChiriottiSENIOR EDITOR

Emilia Coccolo ChiriottiNEWS EDITORS

Cristina QuagliaMilena Novarino Monica Onnis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Chiara CombaTRANSLATIONS

Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR

Monica PagliardiADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Luigi Voglino [email protected] ART DIRECTOR

Studio Grafico ImpaginaPRINTED BY

Tipografia Giuseppini

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Editionis happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2011 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 234 January 2011

ON OUR COVER

Dome of crème brulée with raspberriesBiagio Settepani

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480

[email protected]

In this issue“Live” from New York City

Easter Time

The Accademia and the wedding cake

Emotions and rationality in chocolate

Recipes' windmill

Puffed Popeye

Refreshing sips

The sweet and coldside of the territory

Recipes from the ifse

SUBSCRIBE ON-L INE

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com

NewsThe flexible multifunction Pastry Chef helper

Quality from the root

New Boscolo Etoile Academy in Tuscania

Legion of Honour to Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti

Biasetto in Bruxelles

Exciting notes of colour

From Sicily to Normandy

In the world with Trittico Executive

Intersicop 2011

Reliable machines

Comfit and Comfit Maxi

A new generation of professional moulds

The Power of Knowledge

Exceeding all expectations

Chocogang is coming

Italian delights in London

The pastry world meets in Lyon

THE BRAND NEW WEBSITE

www.piwwe.comrecipes and interviews

subscribe on linebrouse through the mag

receive newsletters stay in touch with the pastry world

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 1822

Happiness is a family and three shops

“LIVE” FROM NEW YORK CITYIt looks like the title of a film, but it is the story of BIAGIO SETTEPANI who, with hiswife Pina and their three children, have made a life for themselves in New York City

To talk about Biagio Settepani and his family is always a plea-sure. And not just because they are close friends, but mainly be-cause it means telling the story of a growing success, a realpassion and a big heart. The story begins in Sicily, specifically inVentimiglia di Palermo, where Biagio set off for the first time toNew York with his twin brother Antonino and his parents. Aboutthis first phase, much useful information can be found in the se-cond edition of "Sweet Sensations of Sicily", edited by Salva-tore Farina, with pictures by Giancarlo Bononi, for Lussografica(For orders, [email protected]).The family is the starting point of this article because Biagio, withprofessionalism and passion (in addition to numerous awards), owesmuch to both his family of origin and to the one he has created withhis wife Pina. Together and literally step by step, they "conquered"their America, today boasting three very well established shops:Bruno Bakery in La Guardia Place (in Manhattan), about 130 m2,of which 100 are dedicated to sales, a laboratory of 120 m2 andanother 90 m2 warehouse with 20 employees; on Staten Island,there is Pasticceria Bruno Bakery & Restaurant in Forest Ave-nue (280 m2 total, of which 170 for a pastry and cuisine laboratory,and 35 employees); and Pasticceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard, withover 600 m2 and 40 employees. It is teamwork all the way: first the

parents and Antonino, then Pina, a woman of great altruism and kin-dness (qualities that are common to her husband), who never hasenough to give. And then there are three children: Salvatore, 25,grew up in his father's laboratory, did an internship with Biasetto inPadua, and now leads the pastry shop on Hylan Blvd; Fina spendsher spare time (she recently graduated in marketing) in the otherlarge shop on Staten Island, because she is very good with custo-mers and with training assistants. And the ‘little one’ (so to speak,given that he is 17 years old) of the family, Joseph, has just left forthe prestigious Culinary Institute of America (a university his brotherstudied at) and is quite happy to lend a hand in the laboratory, de-spite his football prowess.Settepani's pastry making combines Italian tradition with American(and a touch of French), a colourful mix of cultures lived and loved,which lead to an offering of cakes (from tiramisu to the keylime tartwith lime cream and pastry), cookies (from Lenten cookies to "diet"ones with chocolate and cherries), single portions, frozen desserts,muffins, jams, bakery products and savoury pastries. But it is themignons that best express this mix of cultures and techniques thatgo far beyond the Italy-USA tandem: about twenty mignons and fortysingle portions, numbers that make them unique in the area; the fa-vourite is the chocolate mousse.

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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 3

THE “SMALL” OF THE FAMILYSettepani's most recent brainchild, open a year ago, is the Pastic-ceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard of Staten Island, now ably mana-ged by his son Salvatore and by chef and partner Franco Franzese.We had the pleasure to visit and enjoy the rich lunch menu, amonga crowd of customers, mostly women taking their breaks from localoffices and from the nearby hospital.In fact, in all family-run businesses lunches and dinners are an ex-cellent source of income and are appreciated not only for quality butalso for the abundance of food, all with a clear Italian influence ofcourse: fried calamari, mozzarella in carrozza, arancini, carpaccios,polenta, pasta of various sorts, salads, soups, meat and fish dishes,Tuscan piadine, pizzas, barbecue sandwiches, not to mention deli-cious desserts. Customer feedback is tangible and on weekends,especially in stores on Staten Island, there can be one-hour queuesto eat.Even at breakfast, rooms are crowded; there are simple and filledcroissants (almond, chocolate, cinnamon ... and salted), Danish,muffins, croissants with chocolate cream, as well as omelettes andsavory dishes, for the classic English breakfast; Sunday brunch alsoworks well. Eating on-site means customers can get to know thesweet offering, which boosts take-away sales. The offering includesvarious types of bread produced in the laboratory of Forest Avenueand obviously the super popular cupcake (see article in issue 229)made by the Settepanis in extra large formats: the favourite, knownas Red Velvet, sells 150 pieces per week.Services offered include catering (especially for private parties andlarge family dinners) and take away, with popular sauces, especiallythe tomato pesto. Lastly, there are several initiatives for customers,such as courses for pastry and bread making at the shop in HylanBlvd, on Sunday morning for 15 people for $95: chocolates for Va-lentine's Day, Easter specialties, Italian cookies, colourful cupcakes,ice cream, sorbets and granitas; carrot, nut and banana cake, lemonand blueberries; low-sugar treats, jams and jellies.This success is the result of hard work, credibility built over the years,and entrepreneurial flair, not only behind the scenes, but also interms of marketing and image. And should anyone ask how two sto-

res can co-exist so close together, Biagio specifies: "Some dine atHylan Blvd and then eat dessert at Forest Ave!".www.pasticceriabruno.com

A united family, three successful pastry shops, and industryesteem: how do you feel when you look back and take stockof the long road covered?

Above, the family group. From left: Joseph, Pina, Biagio, Fina and Salvatore.

On the left, the pastry shop in Forest Avenue; Hylan Boulevard to the right, working with Franco and Salvatore are 40 employees, spread over two shifts, from7 to 15.30 and from 15.30 to 22. Breakfasts, lunches and dinners are a great revenue for all the Settepani shops. At Hyland Blvd on Valentine's Day, forexample, there is an average of three rounds of sessions for the romantic dinner.


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When I think of this long journey, the strongest emotion is to seemy children involved in our business, happy to continue what Pinaand I have built.What does it mean to be an ambassador of Italian dessert inthe States, and to be an honorary member of AMPI?A lot, because it allows me to stay connected to my roots and tokeep up with the times and trends, building useful connections evenwith the best professionals in Italy and worldwide.To what extent do the Americans understand Italian tradition?I think there is great confusion when speaking of our Italian tradi-tions in the States: a large percentage of Italian pastry making hasnot kept up with the developments of the last 15 years. This meansItalian desserts are still considered to be tiramisu, cannoli, the cas-sata and panna cotta, all of which is in some way influenced byAmerican style.Let's talk about gelato: how do you make Americans under-stand the difference between ice cream and gelato? It is not easy to educate the customer with regards gelato, simply be-cause ice cream is all they know. I believe in tastings and custom les-sons, while trusting the work that Italian companies have been doingin these parts (Elenka, Fabbri 1905, Mec3, Pernigotti, PreGel ...).But it will still take some years before we see the results.What are the most popular flavours? The classics, from vanilla to chocolate, including hazelnut andstrawberry.And are granitas appreciated?Yes, especially lemon and coffee.

What advice would you give to a fellow who wants to drivesales at a time as difficult as this?I think the best advice is always not to choose short-cuts in order togive the customer the best quality at the most appropriate price.These are times when you have to keep the cost of ingredients undercontrol, carefully looking for the best deals, and minimizing waste.How has the clientele changed in New York in the last 10years?The general public has greater awareness regarding food, throughtravel, television, internet ... But it is also more health- and weight-conscious, and so spends and consumes less.The crisis can also be felt in your area. What are you doing toface it?Whenever you face any kind of crisis we must find ways to cut costsand reduce waste. We have also reduced the work week for emplo-yees to six days instead of seven, allowing us to contain wages.What is the ingredient that you love to work, and what inno-vative technology satisfies you the most?The ingredient is chocolate, while the equipment that I appreciatemost is the blast chiller, which allows us every day to speed up pro-duction without affecting quality.What will be the future of the industry, in your opinion?The format will change: family-run pastry shops will disappear anda wave of more modern stores is coming, with an offering thatgoes beyond confectionery, including sandwiches, salads, soupsand pizzas.

Livia Chiriotti

Doughflour g 1000

sugar g 100oil g 200

eggs g 200yeast g 80

Ricotta creamricotta g 1125sugar g 340

candied lemon g 100vanilla to taste

cinnamon oil to tastechocolate chips to taste

Cartocci


FABBRI


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cream g 725concentrated orange g 105

orange zest g 25vanilla bean no. 1

sugar g 140egg yolks g 215

gelatin sheets g 15water g 45

Cook at 83°C the cream with the orange concentrate, zest, sugar andvanilla with egg yolks; add the gelatin and put into moulds.

Orange scent Pistachio dacquoise

pistachio flour g 200almond flour g 100

icing sugar g 120flour g 48

sugar g 200egg whites g 360lemon zest no. 2

crushed pistachio kernels g 60toasted pistachios g 70

Beat the egg whites with sugar, add flour, powdered sugar and crushedpistachios. Slowly stir into the meringue, then arrange the toasted pi-stachios. Bake for 7 minutes at 165 °C.

Orange Chocolate Mousse35% mg cream g 250

orange puree g 250orange concentrate g 35

egg yolks g 250trimolina g 170

sugar g 10565% chocolate g 625

cream g 1220Heat cream, trimolina, puree and orange concentrate, the second creamand sugar. Pour the hot liquid over the yolks. Cook until the mixture be-comes thick, then stir in the chocolate pieces and mix well; allow to coolbefore adding the cream.

Vanilla and orange cremoso

Blood orange coulisblood orange puree g 240orange concentrate g 45

sugar g 45gelatin sheets g 8

water g 32Heat the puree with the concentrate and sugar, add the soaked gelatineleaves, then place in a mould.

Pistachio Macaroonalmond flour g 125

sugar x 6 g 225 egg whites g 100

sugar g 30powdered egg whites g 5

green and yellow colouring to tasteBeat the egg whites with sugar and egg white powder, sift togethersugar, powdered sugar and almond flour, place into the meringue. Workwell and shape the macaroons on Silpat. Bake at 160 °C for 10 minutes.

Orange caramel glazewater g 450sugar g 900

glucose g 900condensed milk g 600

cold water g 200gelatin powder g 40

orange colouring a. r.Heat water, sugar and glucose at about 105°C, deglaze with the con-densed milk, add gelatin and colouring.

Note cremoso stands for creamy or cremeux.

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CassataSponge

flour g 1000eggs g 1200

egg yolks g 200melted butter g 100

sugar g 700honey g 100

Ricotta creamsee Cartocci on page 4

Rum syrupwater g 1000sugar g 1150

glucose g 150rum g 300

Line a mould with pistachio marzipan, and distribute a thin layer of vanillasponge on the bottom soaked with rum syrup. Fill with ricotta cream,place another layer of sponge to close. Turn over, put a weight on top andfreeze. When ready to display, apply a thin layer of fondant and decoratewith fruit, as usual.

Biagio Settepani

www.pasticceriabruno.com

Photos Giancarlo Bononi


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Irinox presents the first upgrade of Multifresh®, the exclusive blast chilling andshock freezing system, which combines multiple functions in the one toll. It notonly cools and freezes, but manages leavening and thawing. The dynamic modesetting, which provides special product-specific cycles (a pastry setting forcroissants, doughs, mousses, creams... and settings for gelato and semi-freddo), now has new cycles for chocolate and pralines. Meanwhile leaveningcycles have been further enhanced to meet everyday pastry-making needs. Foreach food type a detailed study has been made of temperature, air speed, venti-lation, moisture and time requirements to achieve the best possible chilling and

freezing outcomes. Multifresh® is the idealeveryday helper for the professional, simplyand quickly providing solutions to the routineintermediate food processing stages. Theaim is to maintain original food freshnessand this is the reason why the air distributionsystem has been completely overhauled andadjusted, so that food is handled gently andnever damaged.Irinox has always supported and promotedfood events in Italy and around the world. AtSigep (pavillion B1 stand 160) it is also theevent sponsor of the Junior Pastry WorldCup and the main sponsor of the ItalianChocolate Championship, choosing Italy'srepresentatives for the World Chocolate Ma-sters. During the Sirha, Irinox supports theItalian team in the 11th Coupe du Monde dela Pâtisserie. www.irinox.com

THE FLEXIBLE MULTIFUNCTIONPASTRY CHEF HELPER

Icam places prime im-portance on raw ma-terials and on thegenuine nature ofcocoa. The Italiancompany is present inthe areas wherecocoa beans havebeen grown for centu-ries, working hand inhand with local far-mers. This road to ex-cellence sets out fromthe origins and endswith a selection ofextra-dark gourmetchocolates, such as Grand cru, cru and single-origin. Eventhe tiniest difference in the geographical location of the plan-tations, the climate, the morphological characteristics of thesoil, exposure to sunlight and the genetics of the plantationshave a significant impact on the character of cocoa seedsand thus of the chocolate that is made from the beans. This strong link is espe-cially evident in the two Grand cru varieties, Los Vasquez and Los Palmaritos.Made using the Hispaniola cocoa, which comes from individual plantations inthe Dominican Republic, they have distinctive aromas, despite how close to oneanother the plantations are. Los Palmaritos has a powerful, intense aroma,while Los Vasquez is fruitier and pleasantly acidic. Also for the cru and single-origin chocolates, Icam has selected the finest lo-cally-grown beans, identifying exclusive plantations and making the very best oftheir first-class genetic heritage. The result is a range of superior-quality choco-lates: Pachiza (from Peru), a cru with a full, rounded flavour, pleasantly acidic;Dominicana (from the Dominican Republic), a sweetish, melt-in-the-mouth sin-gle-origin; Madagascar, a single-origin with a balance between acidic and bit-ter, with a full, rounded cocoa aroma, and Ecuador, a single-origin with apersistent floral bouquet. Grand cru, cru and single-origin comes in practical“buttons”, available in 1 or 4 kg bags, and can be used for the making of cho-colates and gourmet chocolate bars, mousses, sauces, creams and gelato.www.icamcioccolato.it

The Institute of Culinary Arts summons sought after profes-sionals at home and abroad to act as teachers, maintainingas a guideline the excellence of raw materials, and thelaunch of global food trends, the focus being on the student.Growth over the years has seen the president Rossano Bo-scolo and his aides expand in various fields until becomingthe Boscolo Etoile Academy. A major change took place withthe move of the Boscolo Etoile Academy to Tuscania, in theprovince of Viterbo. Here Boscolo aims to consolidate hisposition through a project dedicated not just to professio-nals, but also to amateurs. The City of Tuscania and the Lazio Region have embracedthe project by investing resources and placing the premisesin a complex of great historic appeal, the former Church andConvent of San Francesco, dating from the thirteenth cen-tury, and now suitable as a student campus. The property,which will go to host the courses, offering catering andevents is surrounded by the typical landscape of central Italy,where traditional materials are combined with contemporaryart techniques. The rooms are open to the public every day:the church provides the link between the Academy and thecity and contains the culinary museum, a multimedia librarywith 200 antique volumes in digital format, shops and localproducts, books and hardware.In the former medieval convent six high-tech laboratorieshave been placed: a professional kitchen, two for pastryand bread making, a kitchen with individual workstations foramateurs, a bakery-pizzeria with wood oven, an 48-seaterauditorium, plus 2 additional teaching rooms. The partnercompanies have contributed to the outfitting by providingtheir machines.Outside there will be in spring a 17,000 m2 vegetable gardenfor cultivating raw materials, and an open-air amphitheatrefor shows and events. Rumour has it there will be about1,200 professional students per year, and about one thou-sand amateurs, with 55,000 visitors to the Internet portal lastyear, and 740,000 web pages viewed. www.istitutoetoile.it

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New Boscolo Etoile Academyin Tuscania

QUALITY FROM THE ROOT

INNOVATION INcHOcOLATE

Associate

member of

newChocolate rose

Introducing the new

chef’s collectionFor more information visit:

www.dobla.com

AdvPastic_Intern_v2_sept.indd 1 21-12-10 17:55


Antonio Le Rose, Genova

Stefano Laghi, Faenza

GrazianoGiovanniniMontecatini Terme

Luc Eyriey, France

Gino Fabbri, Bologna

Pasticceria Pallotti, Bologna

EASTER TIME

Inside the real shell you can taste gianduja chocolate in white and orange versions.

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color EX

plus EX

injection

comfit maxi

Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - www.selmi-group.it - [email protected]

Futura r200

selmi_wwe.indd 1 23/12/10 09.38


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Last November thesecond pastry shopby Biasetto wasopened in Bruxel-les, following LeNouvel EspaceGourmand, whichwas inauguratedthree years ago.Luigi, his brotherAlessandro e theirpartners have takenover the famousPâtisserie Mahieuof place Dumon,which was foundedin 1978. 75% ofthe production soldin Bruxelles is madein Italy, at the Bia-setto’s Atelier inPadua, where 32

people are employed and working, as Luigi himself explains, “as ina hospital, with barrack-like rules and chemist-like accuracy!”. www.pasticceriabiasetto.it

BIASETTO IN BRUXELLES

Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti – founder and editor in chief of "Pasticceria Internazionale" and wife ofthe founder of Chiriotti Editori, Giovanni Chiriotti – has been awarded the prestigious accoladeof Knight of the Legion of Honour, an award announced in an official letter from the Presidentof the French Republic, Nicolas Sarkozy.In the letter the President's motives are clear: "the quality of services to France and the atta-chment shown". Going further into detail, there are obvious references to the work in the sectorof technical publishing: for having given value to confectionary the world over, especially theFrench school, and for having contributed to the development and qualitative improvement of pa-stry making, giving it international exposure.In addition to the long-time friends and collaborators, those present for this important recognitionincluded many pastry chefs, representing associations from all over Italy and France, GabrielPaillasson guest of honour, Officier de la Legion d'Honneur, President of the Confédération Na-tionale du Dessert et des Douceurs and the Confédération des Glaciers de France, foundingpresident of the World Pastry Cup in Lyons and patron of this knighthood.

Visit www.pasticceriainternazionale.it to read the moving speech by Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti and to see the full photo report.

LEGION OF HONOUR TO EMILIA COCCOLO CHIRIOTTI

Above, the moment of giving the prestigious award by the Consul General of France in Turin and Genoa, Véronique Vouland-Aneini. Here, groupphoto with pastry chefs. On the right, Emilia and MOF Gabriel Paillasson.

A brilliant touch of color on confectio-nery products and a perfect cut at tem-peratures above and below freezing:Nappages by Fabbri 1905 are ingre-dients for cakes and semifreddos, i.e. superior-quality transparenticings with a delicate flavour suitable for any kind of dessert.Nappages are available in different flavours, starting with Amarena, thetop-of-range that brings Fabbri's emblematic shiny red fruit to profes-sional cake-making; Apricot, with its delicious fruity aroma conjuring upimages of summer; the tropical Passion fruit, with its typical tart taste;the Neutral version, giving a shine to cakes without altering their deli-cate flavour; Chocolate Icing, an explosion of flavour enhancing thegourmand side of any recipe; the classic Strawberry, the scrumptiousCaramel with its luscious character, and the ever-popular Pistachio.This year a brand-new flavour enriches the Nappages range: Lemon, anew taste with a delectably tangy hint. www.fabbri1905.com

EXCITING NOTES OF COLOUR

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The 17th public meeting of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, the professional association gathering some well known Italian pastry chefs,was held in Brescia in November and was centred on the wedding cake theme, showing a colourful display of ceremony desserts. In this occa-sion, the Trofeo Pavoni – Pasticciere dell’Anno 2010 (the Italian pastry chef of the year) was given to Salvatore De Riso from Minori, near Salerno(www.deriso.it). The next public meeting will take place from 6 to 9 November 2011, probably in Parma, while the technical symposium will beheld in Brescia from 13 to 16 March. www.ampiweb.it

THE ACCADEMIA and the wedding cake

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In issue 16 (download it from www.piwwe.com) we presentedGianluca Fusto, one of the most outstanding Italian pastrychefs, who travels in the world in order to learn, share his know-

ledge and teach. His creative mathematics, which brings to-gether emotions and rationality allows him to be in continuousevolution, as demonstrated by these recipes.

ARAGUANI AND LIQUORICE1 recipe = g 1824

UHT cream 35% fat g 680Araguani 72% chocolate g 810

invert sugar g 125butter 82% fat g 180

liquorice powder g 29Boil the cream and invert sugar. Pour it slowly over the chocolate meltedat over 45°C and add the liquorice powder. Mix from the centre to createa shiny elastic knot. This structure must be maintained until the end. Whenthe mixture is around 40°-45°C, add the diced cold butter from the fridge.Double chablon with tempered chocolate.First chablon with the help of a pipe directly on paper and then put in theganache frame. Second chablon directly on crystallized ganache with thehelp of a spatula or pipe.

PouringPouring between 38° and 45°C depending on the amount of pro-duct to spread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure sothe ganaches do not have a uniform thickness.CuttingGuitar 3 cm by 1 cm.CrystallizationFor 24 hours at 14°-18°C and a humidity of 60%. Then cut themand crystallize for 12 hours.DecorPlace a silver decalcomania on the surface.

EMOTIONS and rationality in chocolate


1 recipe = 3200 g

Barolo Chinato gelNappage Absolu Cristal g 1270

Barolo Chinato g 677Bourbon vanilla powder g 11

alcohol Buon Gusto g 42Mix all ingredients together in a graduated jug or cutter. Pay attentionto air bubbles. Dress in boule creuse lait (shells). Close the follo-wing day.

NotesNappage Absolu Cristal is a nappage by Valrhona with a neutraltaste and colour, that can be used hot or cold.Alcohol Buon Gusto is a food-grade alcohol.

Grué sugar for coatingicing sugar g 545cocoa grué g 606

cocoa powder g 48Place all ingredients in the mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

AssemblyBarolo Chinato Gel g 2000

grué sugar for coating g 1200Valrhona boule creuse lait (shells)Fill shells with milk chocolate. Once crystallized, place them in a bowland cover them with milk chocolate slightly lightened with cocoa but-ter. Allow them to crystallize and remove the excess with the help ofa sieve.

BAROLO CHINATO


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A NEW GENERATION OF DRAGÉTHE “DUSTY” APPEARANCE OF THE SURFACE HIDES A PASTE WHICH CARRIES UNEXPECTED FLAVOURS TO THE PALATE. WE ARE TALKING OF

DRAGÉ CREATED BY THE GIANLUCA FUSTO AND ANDREA BESUSCHIO DUET. THE TWO PASTRY CHEFS HAVE COME UP WITH FOUR VARIANTS

WITH EVOCATIVE NAMES: MANDY (WITH ALMONDS FROM NOTO), COFFY (PURE BRAZIL ARABICA COFFEE), NOTTY (WITH IGP PIEDMONT HA-ZELNUTS) AND SALTY (WITH SALTED PEANUTS). THE COMMON DENOMINATOR OF THE WHOLE LINE IS CHOCOLATE – WHITE, DARK OR MILK, DEPENDING ON THE VERSION – AND ITS IRREGU-LAR SHAPE REMINISCENT OF PEBBLES COLLECTED ON THE SEASHORE. THERE ARE DIFFERENT COLOURS (THE GREEN OF MANDY IS STRIKING)AND TASTES, GIVEN BY REFINED INGREDIENTS SUCH AS PIRAN SALT AND WASABI, SPICES LIKE CINNAMON, AND NERVINE BEVERAGES SUCH AS

COFFEE AND GREEN TEA.

1 recipe = 1850 g

almonds and hazelnut praliné 66% g 1300

cocoa butter g 210hazelnut paste g 260

Pariani hazelnut oil* g 55clarified liquid butter 1 g 25

Melt the cocoa butter at 40°-45°C, add the hazelnut oil and cocoa butter,heat to 45°-50°C. Mix the praline and start the crystallization at 24°-25°C.Pour into a frame of 34x34 cm, 12 mm high, pasted on a sheet of speci-fic paper previously chablon stenciled with dark chocolate. Allow to cry-stallize from 24 to 36 hours at 17°C and 60% humidity.Double chablon with tempered chocolate.First chablon with the help of a pipe directly on paper and then put in theganache frame. Second chablon directly on crystallized ganache with thehelp of a spatula or pipe.PouringPouring between 24° and 25°C depending on the amount of product tospread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure so the ganachesdo not have a uniform thickness.CuttingGuitar 2 cm by 2 cm.Crystallization For 24 hours at 14°-18°C and a humidity of 60%.Then cut them and crystallize for 12 hours.Decor Place decalcomanias on the surface.

*Hazelnut oil was traditionally produced in Piedmont, in the Langhe (thehilly area in the province of Cuneo), and it was used instead of olive oil,which was too much expensive for peasant families. Nowdays this ancienttradition revives thanks to the producer Mattia Pariani, from Cortemilia,who extracts oil from the local renowned hazelnut variety, i.e. NocciolaTonda Gentile delle Langhe-Piemonte IGP. http://pariani.blogspot.com

Gianluca Fustowww.gianlucafusto.com

THE PARIANINO

www.icamprofessionale.it

Italian down to the last drop.

I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R A T I O N , O U R P A S S I O N .

Every last drop of Icam chocolate

contains something truly inimitable

and unique: a passion for taste and

creativity that’s Italian through and

through. Sixty years of experience

in the world of chocolate, carefully

selected raw materials, full control

throughout the farming and

production chain and the use of the

most advanced technology currently

available: this is what makes Icam the

last word in quality Italian chocolate.

Icam Linea Professionale is here to

help you turn this quality chocolate into

exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian

right down to the last drop.


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Attention to the environment and food security have allowed the Sicilian pastry chef Santi Palazzolo from Cinisi, near Palermo, to open two storesat Palermo airport and even one in Rouen, the capital of Normandy (France), within walking distance from the famous cathedral. The restaurant iscalled Tavola Calda Bistro by Palazzolo. It all started when Emmanuel Gillot and Linda Figlioli, owners of Comunico Plus, fell in love with Santi'sspecialties. Today production takes place in Cinisi's laboratories and is then sent on a monthly basis directly to a deposit in Rouen. Currently onsite there is a small workshop where the various products are finished: decorations, brief bakings, and fillings; the possibility of increasing storagespace is currently under consideration.“As for future projects - Santi Palazzolo says - we are working on improving the format used in France and a project is underway for the new ope-ning, always with the same company, of a store in Paris."

FROM SICILY TO NORMANDY

The outside of the store in Rouen.Palazzolo's family and staff.

Bravo can boast over 40 years of experience in the productionof machines for the daily work of gelato makers and confectio-ners, and the company has grown thanks to business develop-ment that expanded from Italy to all over the world. After the consolidation of the European markets through theopening of Bravo France in Paris in 1991, Bravo turned toSouth America and Australia, where many Italians settled du-ring the last 50 years, and to the Asian markets, offering greatopportunities in the fields of gelato production and elaborate

confectionery. The success of the multifunctional Trittico® Executive abroad is due to its va-rious programs, enabling to produce gelato, semifreddos, pastry for catering, custards,mousses, sauces, coulis, ganaches, tempered chocolate, etc. It is Bravo’s leading product inKorea and Japan and this expansion enabled to open Bravo Asia in 2008: it was a very impor-tant step to consolidate the company’s presence in these markets and to quickly providethem an efficient system of technical assistance, customer service, business and consultancysupport through Bravo Trittico Club seminars. After the boom of hotel industry in the MiddleEast countries, Trittico was well welcomed also there, thanks to its multifunctional programsfor gelato production, confectionery and catering. A recent development has been the ope-ning of an office in California in order to enter the North-American market.

This expansion has always been supported by Bravo’spresence at international expos, from the Sirha in Lyon(where Bravo is partner of the Coupe du Monde de laPâtisserie), to the Sigep in Rimini (sponsorship of theGelato World Cup and of the Juniores Pastry WorldCup), from FHA in Singapore (sponsorship of the AsiaPastry Cup) to Intergelat in Alicante. This year Bravo istaking part in the most important events in the East(Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo, Sidney), in Dubai and inChicago. Morevorer, Bravo has formed partnershipswith many culinary institutes, from the French PastrySchool of Chicago to the At-Sunrice The Academy ofGlobal Chefs in Singapore. It was also thanks to thecompany’s presence in France and its demanding cu-stomers, that Bravo succeeded in giving definition, pre-cision and reliability to Trittico over the years. “Weforecast therefore an excellent 2011 – they say – inwhich we will try to keep the important shares of marketwe conquered in the last years, and to implement themthanks to all those customers trying our every day thegreat advantages given by a combined multifunctionalmachine”. www.bravo.it - www.tritticoclub.com

IN THE WORLD WITH TRITTICO EXECUTIVE

The international bakery, pa-stry and related industriesshow, Intersicop 2011,which is due to stage its 9thedition between 24th and

28th March 2011, at Feria de Madrid,continues to reflect its strong commit-ment to industry. By October 170companies had already confirmedtheir direct participation at the fair or-ganised by IFEMA, which will occupya net exhibition area of 10,000 m2.The fair continues to rally the supportof the leading trade sector associa-tions and companies, and the organi-sing committee, which includesrepresentatives of the main businessassociations for industry in Spain, hashad a new chairman, namely LorenzoAlonso, who is also the president ofthe Spanish Confederation of BakeryOrganisations, CEOPAN. The strong level of foreign participa-tion confirms the growing internationaldimension of the event, based on theattendance of companies from Portu-gal, France, Germany, Italy and theNetherlands. This aspect of Intersicophelps to consolidate its status as theleading showcase for the Spanish ba-kery and pastry industry and one ofthe leading events of this kind in Eu-rope. The fair will present the latestdevelopments and new features, aswell as offering participants an oppor-tunity to exchange experiences.www.intersicop-madrid.ifema.es

INTERSICOP 2011

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RECIPES' WINDMILL

Almond and citrus fruit recomposed biscuitbrown sugar g 200

flour g 200 butter g 200

raw almond flour g 200 orange zest g 1 lemon zest g 1

Mix all ingredients and let rest overnight in refrigerator. The next day,grate the mixture and bake at 160°C for 20 minutes.When the biscuit is cold, add a small amount of hot molten white cho-colate (as much as you need to bind the mixture), compact it in a squaresteel mold, 1 cm in height, and cool in a blast chiller.

Namelaka cream with lime and white chocolatewhole milk g 250

grated lime peel g 10 glucose g 12 gelatin g 10

white chocolate g 370 cream g 500

Soak 5 lime rinds in cold cream and put to one side. Boil the milk, glu-cose and the rest of lime rinds. Infuse for a few minutes. Filter. Add therehydrated gelatin and pour slowly over the melted chocolate, so as to

obtain an elastic and shiny texture. Add to this preparation the cold creamand lime peel. Mix for a few minutes. Pour into square thermoformedthousand-bubble molds and cool.

Namelaka is the Japanese name for creamy.

Strawberry and raspberry stewstrawberry puree g 300 raspberry puree g 200

lemon juice a.r.sugar g 200 pectin g 6

Heat the puree of strawberries and raspberries, mix the sugar and pec-tin and add to the puree. Cook until thick, then add the lemon juice.

AssemblyRemove the frozen namelaka cream from the mold and steam with thewhite chablonne mass. Place the cream on a crispy base of recomposedbiscuit, pour in irregular fashion the strawberry and raspberry sauce andgarnish with red fruit.

Emmanuele ForconeVasto, Chieti

Pasticceria Pannamore

BEYOND TIME


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Soft base %almond powder g 150 17.65

fine caster sugar g 90 14.2moscovado sugar g 30 3.53

eggs g 220 25.88fresh egg whites g 50 5.88fine caster sugar g 30 14.2

fresh bananas average ripeness g 280 32.94

grated nutmeg to taste total weight of kg 0.85 100

Stir in the cutter with fine blade the eggs, sugar, and ground almonds andgrate a little nutmeg to add flavour to the mixture. Separately, beat the eggwhites and sugar to a meringue. When the mixture is blended, empty itinto a bowl and mix the egg whites gently using a soft spatula. Empty themixture over a non-stick pad inside the baking tin, sprinkle the surface withbananas cut into small regular pieces, and sprinkle the surface with icingsugar before baking. Static oven preheated to 185°C for 18 minutes.

Chocolate-orange cream %cream 35% fat g 390 34.45

Sicilian oranges (juice) g 120 10.60Tarocco orange no. 1 22,08white chocolate g 365 32.24

gelatin 150 Bloom g 7 0.62total weight of 1.130 kg 100

Grate the Tarocco orange into the orange juice, cover with plastic wrapand leave to infuse overnight in the refrigerator. Pour the white chocolatecut into pieces in a steel pan and bake at 120°C for 30 minutes, stirringevery 10 minutes to caramelize it evenly. Hydrate the gelatin in cold water,

AÇAIwarm the juice at 75°C and filter the grated rind; add the dissolved gela-tin and, little by little, the white chocolate caramel. Separately, whip thecream; when the chocolate-orange reaches 40°C, gently mix the creamwith a spatula.

Milk mousse %fresh whole milk g 500 22.05

cream 35% fat g 50 2.20 gelatin 150 Bloom g 10 0.44

milk chocolate 40% g 700 30.86cocoa butter g 8 0.35

whipped cream 35% fat g 1000 44.09 total weight of 2.27 kg 100

Hydrate the gelatin, boil the milk with 50 g of cream, pour the warm mix-ture over the melted chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin and emulsifywith the help of an immersion blender. At 35°C add the whipped creamand mix gently.

Açai gelé %açai juice g 250 94.70

gelatin 200 Bloom g 4 1.52invert sugar g 10 3.79

total weight of 0.26 kg 100Heat the juice to 50°C with sugar, and add the hydrated gelatin. Açai isan exotic fruit from Brazil.

Caramel icing %fine caster sugar g 250 27.75fresh whole milk g 50 5.55

glucose g 210 23.31


gelatin 200 Bloom g 15 1.66vanilla berry n. 1 0.11

cream 35% fat g 300 33.30 milk chocolate 40% g 75 8.32

total weight of 0.9 kg 100Heat the glucose, add the sugar and caramelize to a nice brown colour.Separately, boil the cream and milk, reduce the sugar stirring with a spoonand add the pulp of vanilla. Hydrate the gelatin with water, stir the liquidmixture with the hot chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin warm, cover withplastic wrap and let stand overnight in refrigerator. Icing temperature 34°C.

Sablé %moscovado sugar g 35 10.67fine caster sugar g 45 13.72

soft butter g 70 21.34W150-160 00 flour g 60 18.29

potato starch g 20 6.10Maldon salt g 2 0.61 cocoa gruè g 10 3.05

24% cocoa powder g 8 2.44 cinnamon g 1 0.30

vanilla powder g 2 0.61dark chocolate 70% g 60 18.29

cocoa butter g 15 4.57 total weight of 0.33 kg 100

Mix starting with half the softened butter and flour, add the remainingflour and knead the minimum necessary to avoid heating the pastry.

Spread the dough to 4 mm and bake at 160°C for 15 minutes, openvalve. Cool the pastry, chop coarsely, sieve to remove dust and freezethe pieces obtained, spray using a gun the chocolate mixture onto smallpieces of cold sablé.

AssemblyCut out two disks of soft base, diameter 14 cm, height 0.7 cm. Place ina ring of 2 cm in height and 14 diameter. Pour the chocolate-orangecream weighing out 100 g, and sprinkle with a few pieces of sablé. Blastchill to -20°C. Take the ring and place over the chocolate-orange cream50 g of açai gelé. Place in the blast chiller. Place a sheet of acetate on aflat baking sheet; arrange a circle of 4.5 cm in height and 16 cm in dia-meter, pour in 1 cm of milk mousse and cool. When it begins to congeal,insert the disk of chocolate-açai cream, cover with more mousse andcover with a second disc of soft base 14 cm in diameter. Smooth theedges with the mousse. Blast chill. Remove from mould and glaze withicing at 34°C. Garnish with orange grué and crystalline sugar. Servingtemperature 6°C.

Nutritional values for 100 genergy (kJ) 430.08energy (kcal) 102.72carbohydrates (g) 8.32fat (g) 6.13protein (g) 1.47

Alessandro Dalmassowww. pasticceriadalmasso.com

Avigliana, TorinoPhoto Remo Caffaro

SPHERE LIMITED EDITION, IS THE DESSERT OF THE FUTURE BY ROBERTO RINALDINI OF RIMINI, A SMALL BUBBLE BLOWN BY HAND, A MICRO DESSERT OF JUST ONE BITE,

MADE IN 50 EXCLUSIVE PAIRS. "IN THE PRESENTATION AND TASTE,” HE EXPLAINS “I WANTED TO CREATE AN EXPLOSIVE EFFECT IN THE MOUTH THANKS TO THE THIN CRUST OF

SUGAR, WHICH WHEN IT BREAKS DELIVERS TO THE PALATE CREAM WITH AN INTRIGUING STRUCTURE, BETWEEN LIQUID AND CREAMY, WITH HINTS OF CITRUS AND RED FRUITS, THEIR

ACIDITY MAKING THE DESSERT FRESH. THE INGREDIENTS USED ARE SUGAR CANE, STRAWBERRY-SCENTED ESSENTIAL OIL, AND NATURAL RED FOOD COLOURING. SPHERE HAS THE

ADVANTAGE OF BEING CREATED BY HAND, USING LITTLE EQUIPMENT, AND SO CALLING IT A 'SWEET' IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. WWW.RINALDINIPASTRY.COM


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The new RTL range (Labotronic and Pastomaster) by Carpigiani includes efficient and ver-satile machines equipped with the Teorema Ready system, i.e. remote technical diagnosisand intervention via web. The Labotronic RTL range offers 4 freezing programs (Excellent,Speed, Hard and Simply), a greater freezing customization and a wider differentiation inproduction. The Defrost feature automatically runs in case of an accidental stoppage du-ring the freezing process, always providing the extraction of frozen gelato and a rapid pro-duction restart. It is available in four different models (1030, 1545, 2060 and 30100). Alsothe Pastomaster range has been updated as RTL: Pastomaster 60 has 5 speed mixing, 7gelato mix, 4 sauce, 5 speciality and 5 free programs. The special exchange pump, whichis located at the bottom of the tank, guarantees a low homogenization (to have finer andcreamier gelato), a dry bain-marie system (to avoid burning and thus resulting in constantefficiency) and a low energy consumption, in proportion with the amount of mix to produce.The versatile Maestro allows to mix, cook, cool and temper with 14 programs for the ma-king of gelato, cremolata, sauces and toppings, and 18 pastry and chocolate making pro-grams. The machine has evolved to the HCD version and besides the intelligent anddynamic handling of the production cycle, the Hot-Cold-Dynamic® system modulates thehot or cold gas depending on the quality and quantity of product; it maintains gelato at theright consistency and avoids burning and incrusting. Both the hot and cold are producedby the refrigeration circuit compressor, with four fully integrated circuits managed the byHCD system itself. Maestro HCD is Teorema Ready and thus designed for remote technical dia-gnosis and interventions via web.Carpigiani has applied rounded corners to its laboratory equipment, including the new XPLrange (3 batch freezers, 3 pasteurizers and 2 ageing tanks). The Labo XPL batch freezers havethree variable freezing programs, suitable for gelato, sorbets and cremolata. They are equippedwith the exclusive Hard-O-Time system to keep the production phases under control andachieve the ideal consistency. The beater’s blade is in POM (polyoxymethylene, an engineeringthermoplastic) and has self-adjusting scrapers and no central shaft for the total expulsion of ge-lato. All models are equipped with the post-refrigeration system that allows to re-activate coldduring the extraction phase, to maintain the consistency of gelato. The Pasto XP pasteurizers aremix producers with three levels of pasteurization: 65°C (for milk-cream mixes), 85°C (for milk-egg mixes) and 90°C (for cocoa-milk mixes). The tap for extracting the desired quantity of mixhas a piston that, after every extraction, sends all the mix back into the hopper, thus eliminatingany residues along the pipe. The quality of pasteurization is guaranteed by the Black Out fun-ction, which is activated after a sudden loss of electricity or water; the machine calculates thetemperature of the mix to resume the operation in progress or to repeat the pasteurization cycle. RTL, XPL and Master HCD control panels have the same symbols and large touch pads withLCD displays and scroll-down menus. Carpigiani has chosen to standardize all control panels,thus enhancing overall functionality. www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com

RELIABLE MACHINES

Silikomart launches the Tortaflex mould linefor cakes, desserts, parfaits... in order to sim-plify the work of chefs and confectioners. Thenew 100% food liquid silicone mould has theadvantages of silicone – flexibility; versatility ofuse in blast chillers, traditional or microwaveovens; easy product storage and handiness inmould release – and offers itself as an alterna-tive to the metal ring traditionally used by con-fectioners. Tortaflex cuts down on preparationtime because it doesn’t need any film; moreo-ver, it doesn’t require a gas blowtorch to de-tach the product from the mould when stillfrozen, keeping its shape unchanged. Anotherdistinctive features is the presence of markson the sides of the mould, showing the level ateach cm, to simplify work. Finally, thanks to thevariety of shapes produced by Silikomart, it ispossible to match many other moulds, multi-form or sixty-by-forty (for instance in the shapeof classical discs or half-spheres) to createspecial inserts, thus offering a wider variety oftastes and creative solutions. Tortaflex mouldsare in white silicone and sold with a highly re-sistant plexiglas 60x40 cm baking-tin/tray.www.silikomart.com

A new generation of professional moulds

Established in 1965 by Re-nato Selmi, Selmi started itsactivity as a hazelnut pasteprocessing company andonly afterwards focused onchocolate processing, thusbecoming a specialist in thisfield; in 1987 Paolo Selmi joi-ned his father in the manu-facturing of tempering andcovering machines. The com-pany focuses now on thecontinuous improvement ofmachines and their efficiency,guaranteeing fewer mainte-nance sessions and service, which includes the machines te-sting at the customer’s plant. Conceiving and design,

manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and assistance for customersare therefore essential steps of the company’s production procedure.Comfit coating pan is made of AISI 304 steel and is equipped with anelectronic speed control to optimise the coating of different types and

sizes of products. The introduction of air into the rotating tank cavity is controlled by a coo-ling system capable of speedily enlarging the size of products via the introduction of choco-late. During the following phase a resistance is used to smoothen and polish the surface ofproducts and clean the machine. There is a thermoregulator on the control panel which ena-bles the adjustment of temperature to suit the required processing.

The technical data of Comfit are: tank capacity 15 kg,hourly production approx. 15 kg/h, power consumption 1.8kW single phase 220 volt, cooling system 1100 frigories/h.The dimensions are w. 720 mm, d. 770 mm, h. 1420 mm.The technical features of Comfit Maxi are: tank capacity 50-60 kg, hourly production 50-60 kg/h, power consumption220 V. single phase. 2.5 kW, cooling system 1900 frigo-ries/h. The dimensions are w. 1065 mm, d. 1445 mm, h.1600 mm. Both machines are equipped with interchangea-ble air filters. www.selmi-group.it

COMFIT AND COMFIT MAXI

24

ITALPROGET. Technologies, projecTs, furnishings and designs for bars, confecTioners’ shops and ice-cream shops

Magic.enchanting Vision.

Via Ponte di Ferro 85 | Bettona (Pg) Italy | T. +39.075.9869071 | www.italproget.com Style, quality and technology

design and technology for a display cabinet able to guarantee total and ideal

visibility from all viewpoints. straight and forceful lines and maximum impact

frontpiece glass panels: a magic solution to give greater appeal and make ice-

cream, confectionery products and hot and cold gastronomy the protagonists.

Thanks to its flexibility, to the possibility of modular units, magic succeeds

in adapting itself to the design of any environment and any dimension.

Discover Magic: Forceful, fascinating and flexible. Allow yourself to be bewitched by the magic of ItalProget.

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PUFFED POPEYE

Stéphane Klein'sfun sugar workpiece

Blown sugarbaking at 168°-170°C

sugar g 1000water g 500

glucose 38DE g 350drops of tartaric acid no. 5-6

(after cooking)

Big Fish

Stéphane Klein is an expert in sugar work and the owner of a school in Belfort, France, where he teaches the most advanced techniques. http://atelierdusucre.free.fr

1 For the trousers, use sky bluesugar. Blow a cone, then markthe hollow of the knee with aknife. For the second leg, repeatthe same procedure by foldingthe knee a bit more. Glue thelegs, forming the back of thecharacter.

27

4 For the head use flesh pink sugar and begin by blowing a ball. Form a promi-nent chin and attach it to the ball. Add the mouth in moulded sugar, then theeyeballs; paste eyes, eyelids and ears. Add the eyebrows and a tuft of blacksugar. Then glue the head to the torso.

5 For each arm, blow a flesh pink cone. With aknife, score the fold of the forearm. Form a

plump hand and affix the arm. Attach both armson the character and finish by adding a little

scarf and a cap.

Stéphane Klein

PAVONI

2 For the shoes, use light brownsugar. Start by blowing a ball and

stretch it into a teardrop shape. Then,hot, finish blowing it on the opening

end of the trousers, so that it fits well.

3 For the torso, use navy blue sugar.Blow a stretched pear shape, then cutthe end with a hot knife. Remove it fromthe tube and glue it to the trousers.

Pavoni piwwe_Layout 1 21/12/10 14.16 Pagina 1


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"Knowledge gives the skilled pro awarenessabout his work, resulting in well-deservedsatisfaction from a revived expertise", statesthe doyen of Italian confectionary, FulvioScolari, in his introduction to the Dictio-nary of Artisan Confectionary, a new pu-

THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGEDictionary of Confectionary

blication edited by Bibliotheca Culinariaand Chiriotti Editori.Scolari adds: "Knowledge has no borders; itallows those who broadly speaking love todiscover their trade – from whatever sur-rounds them in the workshop, to modern te-chnology, sales, and new trends – to feelricher inside, more motivated and capable ofacting as the bearers of a great culture.”Hence the slogan used to promote the dic-tionary, the power of knowledge, becauseknowledge, understood as being withoutboundaries, in a broad and evolutive sense,enclosing understanding, ability and passion,is an instrument and vehicle of culture. Thisawareness has resulted in this publication byEmilia Chiriotti and Enrico Médail. It is awide-ranging work, designed for rapid con-sultation, with about 2000 terms covering awide range of topics relating to the world ofconfectionary. Equipment, descriptions ofsweets, ingredients, key players, prepara-tion and decorating techniques. From basicmixtures to classical sweets, from the greatItalian leavened sweets to simple biscuits,from meringues to pièce montée, from pra-line to hot chocolate, and even molecularconfectionary. From the workshop to sales,from creative packaging to display. The fruit of a long and painstaking work, thedictionary helps find the meaning of termsinviting the attentive and inquisitive reader todelve deeper. The result is a range of lan-guages relating to the kitchen, the workshopand the market; an essential lexicon for allthose in love with the world of sweets.

Dictionary of Artisan ConfectionaryEmilia Chiriotti – Enrico Médail352 pages - 2000 termsBound (2010) - Euro 45Edited in collaboration with Bibliotheca CulinariaTo buy the dictionary visit www.chiriottieditori.it/shop

With more than 2000 words, the "Dictionary of Artisan Confectionary" is sure toprovide a helping hand in the confectioner's workshop

Barely a year after the opening of their brandnew innovation centre, Dobla introduces 40new eye-catching products under theirChef’s Collection label. Corporate pastrychef of Dobla Frank Haasnoot says: “Allthese products are handcrafted and unique.

At Dobla we want to stay ahead of competition, and we alwaysstrive to set the trends rather than following them. The products thatwe have developed are based around eight different themes, rangingfrom Honeymoon, Winter to Asian, Christmas, etc. We work with different shapes, structures, colorsand finishing touches like sugar or golden sparkles. Take for example the Crinkle, referring to the Ho-neymoon theme, which has such a unique structure and shine, brightening up any cake. The RisingSun is mostly unique because of its color, that is not just yellow or orange, but a perfect flow of twodifferent colors, just like the sun”. All the 40 new products, which were introduced to a group of pastry lovers at the Dobla Experienceevent, are on show at Sirha in Lyon (Hall 6, Stand D40), where. Dobla is also a supporter of theCoupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie. www.dobla.com

EXCEEDING ALL EXPECTATIONS

DR

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orange sorbet g 50neutral yogurt g 50

espresso cl 3Drumbuie cl 2

Canadian Whisky cl 2

Prepare in the blender with a few ice chips, serve ina fancy glass and garnish as desired.

Roberto BianchiThanks to the Institute "A. Prever" of Pinerolo

Photo Remo Caffaro

REFRESHING SIPSSorbet, yogurt and coffee are enhanced with the aroma of whiskey

Silverado

30

Via Ponte di Ferro 85 | Bettona (Pg) Italy | T. +39.075.9869071 | [email protected] www.italproget.com

Chapeau!

Well done to all those who have chosen to see their dreams come to life by means

of our ideas, to all those who believed in our project. Well done to those who shared,

together with us, in the creation and renewal of their bar, confectioners’ shop or

their point of sale. Well done to those who decided to offer their clientele all the

security of our exclusive and certified technologies and the unmistakeable elegance

of “Made in Italy” planning and design. Well done to those who chose ItalProget.

To those who, for 20 years, have chosen excellence in technology and style of ItalProget design

TECHNOLOGIES, PROJECTS, FURNISHINGS AND DESIGNS FOR BARS, CONFECTIONERS’ SHOPS AND ICE-CREAM SHOPS


Young, enterprising, passionate and, as he defineshimself, "a bumbling fool", he's Franco Aliberti, bornin 1985, pastry chef of Ristorante Vite in San Patri-gnano, where he works along with chef Fabio Rossiand a close-knit team. Backed by his family, he lefthis land to chase a dream: to learn from the great ma-sters and become a professional. The apprenticeshiptook him all over Italy and beyond, during which hemet great teachers who have left their mark and havehelped him develop. He knows what he wants: tostudy, learn, observe, interpret and customize. Havingchosen San Patrignano, he could get down to busi-ness. For him pastry making is passion, fun, experi-mentation, alchemy: it is the declination of the territoryhe lives in, which allows him to create his own worldof colours, flavours and sensations. All seasoned with elements offusion, and myriad references, but especially with a good dollop offun. We met him for an interview. As usual he was brimming withenergy and joie de vivre.

Let's start with you and your training: when did you realizeyou wanted to make pastry?I attended the first two years at the Istituto Alberghiero in Salerno,then, at sixteen, following in the footsteps of my brother, I moved toSalsomaggiore Terme, where I finished school. My passion for pa-stry comes from my mother who always used to let me mess up herkitchen and experiment. Every gesture was a game full of passionand curiosity; it is the same game that I still carry around with me andthat makes me love this job.Who has influenced your career most?All have given me something important: the experience in Francewith Alain Ducasse opened my mind; Massimo Spigaroli conveyedthe importance of teamwork; Corrado Assenza, respect for raw ma-terials and for those who produce them; Gino Fabbri, willpower;Gianluca Fusto, a 360-degree view of the world of sweets; Gen-naro Esposito, the joy of this work; Leonardo Di Carlo, humility;Gualtiero Marchesi, the importance of always remembering wherewe come from.And, last but not least, Massimiliano Alajmo, and his family, whoserestaurant Le Calandre, near Padua, I worked in for almost fouryears. It is difficult to explain in a few words what I learned, but there

is one sentence that accompanies me every dayand that sums up the best of his teaching: "Thelast stage of complexity is simplicity." What makes an excellent dessert?The right balance of character, tastes, colours,feelings and the appropriate use of raw materials,so that it can offer its best.What do you look for in its creation?Excellent raw materials, preferably a little-knowningredient to intrigue the customer; the processingmethod, to be able to respect it without compro-mising its taste, and the technique that exalts it. How do you create your dessert menu?Over long periods of testing, that can last foryears. The starting point is seasonality and local

produce, followed by demand and customer preference. When Icreate a new item I begin with the name the dessert could acquire.I then move on to the design and I decide which plate to use for it.I also think of how to stir the emotions of my customers so thatthey become accomplices of my work and are left with a pleasantmemory. Is there one sweet more than any other that you consider tobe your speciality? The classic caramelized puff pastry with vanilla cream and ra-spberries.What raw materials do you prefer to work with?Spices, herbs, chocolate, vegetables, fruits: anything edible!And what ingredients make the difference in a cake?There isn't one in particular; the difference comes from the soul, theidentity comes from the creator who conveys a specific and sponta-neous emotional message. How do you seek balance?Through a continuous study of simple elements rich in beneficialproperties for our body, such as water and oil, but mostly thanks tomany samplings and experiments using different combinations. How important is it to know ingredients and work methods?It is important to know the raw material right from its origin in orderto understand its properties and the best time to use it. In addi-tion to this you must have an excellent knowledge of the metho-dology and techniques of the trade: it is the only way to achieveexcellent results.

THE SWEET AND COLDINTERVIEW WITH FRANCO ALIBERTI, PASTRY CHEF OF RISTORANTE VITE OF SAN PATRIGNANO

"The last stage of complexity is simplicit

y""The last stage of complexity is simplicity"

side of the territory

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Plated desserts: what is its underlying philosophy?It's all about getting to the customer using simplicity, lightness, andproper balance all within a complex study aimed at stimulating tastes:sour, sweet, salty, and bitter. This must always go hand in hand withthe other senses, placing an emphasis on touch and sight. What equipment and techniques could you not do without?The blast chiller, the whisks, the vacuum machine and a thermome-ter. If you know the techniques they can be adapted to suit theequipment. The future sees a growing synergy between salty and sweet,cooking and gelato: how do you interpret this?Their fusion will be increasingly important thanks to the exchange oftechniques, processes and ingredients. The possibility for the pastrychef to learn more about the savoury world, and vice versa for thechef, is an enrichment that gives a broader view of gastronomy, andit provides the chance to grow and learn more. It is an important stepthat can stimulate the curiosity and thirst for knowledge and experi-mentation of operators.Why oil?It is a dressing of high quality that belongs to the Mediterranean tra-dition. Not everyone knows that fats, along with proteins and car-bohydrates are macronutrients essential for the proper functioning ofour body: they provide non synthesised fatty acids, called essentials,such as oleic and linoleic acid that stimulate the absorption of solu-ble vitamins and carotenoids. The oil is composed of 14.5% satu-rated fatty acids, 73% monosaturates and 7.5% polyunsaturatedfats: they have a positive effect on lowering bad cholesterol and in-creasing good cholesterol. On this basis I tried to understand whatbenefits this could bring to sweet recipes: it is a vegetable fat witheasily digested components, it has a rapid point of fusion on the pa-late, it is great for fixing flavours, and in some preparations it con-veys a sense of heat. I use extra virgin oil with an acidity below 2%,produced by the community of San Patrignano, cultivated on thehills of Coriano, with olive cultivars such as correggiolo, leccino, mo-raiolo, pendulum and rossina, all hand-picked and cold pressed. Where will confectionary go over the next few years?We will see a return to tradition with more respect for raw materialsand a focus on simplicity. Instead of a group of tastes, they will befew and well defined. What do you think of dessert menus in Italian restaurants?Unfortunately in Italy the restaurant pastry chef is not always present;most of the time you are faced with an offer that for one reason oranother is lacking in ideas. Lately, though, the importance of pre-dessert and dessert has been growing, facilitating an increase inquality and greater attention from caterers.

What are the greatest difficulties during the preparation of asweet?Using the same products as others without repeating yourself; kee-ping one step ahead of them and searching for something beyondwhat you know. There is a fundamental step in creating a new re-cipe that I try always to put into practice: be aware of your knowledgebut at the same time, be able to detach yourself for a moment, justlong enough to create something new. What do you suggest to young people who embark on thiscareer?If there is passion and desire you can go the distance: this of coursegoes with a lot of dedication, patience, humility, work and respect forthose who teach. Do not give up at the first hurdle; in fact any hic-cup is a stimulus to continue and improve. Only in this way can adream come true.

Monica Onnis

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Oil structured biscuitcocoa butter g 40

extra virgin olive oil g 200

Melt the cocoa butter and slowly drizzle in the oil. Mix well and pour intothe Pacojet, freeze and process to obtain a very light raised mass. Formthe slab of butter and refrigerate.extra virgin olive oil butter g 240

icing sugar g 100almond flour g 60

0 flour g 12000 flour g 350

eggs g 100salt g 0.6

baking powder g 5vanilla bean no 1

Since the oil has a low melting point, use the same procedure as for aclassic pastry. However, in the mixing bowl mix the flour, salt, sugar andbaking powder. Mix with the leaf, then add eggs and vanilla and butteroil. As soon as the pastry is firm place in the fridge for 3 hours. Grate thepastry with the wide part of the grater to obtain many flakes and let standin the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bake at 164°C with the valve closedfor 13 minutes. Allow to cool and pass gently through a sieve: in this waythe fine dust is removed and the flakes are rounded to look like pebbles.Store in sealed jars.

Geranium gelatomilk g 2250

sugar g 200milk powder g 250

sugar g 200stabilizer g 14

cream g 200geranium leaves g 120

Bring the milk to 30°C, add the milk powder and sugar a little at a time,stirring constantly; when at 60°C add the sugar and the stabilizer pre-viously mixed together. Bring it to 81° - 82°C, filter, add in the cream andallow to cool to 35°C. Finally, incorporate the geranium leaves. Allow toinfuse for 3 hours. Strain and let stand for at least 10 hours. Freeze inPacojet and whip at the moment of serving.

Blood orange and dill granitablood orange juice g 300

syrup 30 Bé g 80centrifuged dill g 30

gelatine g 2Centrifuge the pulp of red oranges and dill, then mix the two juices withthe syrup 30 Bé, in which was dissolved gelatine. Stir and check for sa-fety with the refractometer not exceeding 21°-22°Brix. Freeze, cut witha knife and store in freezer.

Juniper jamjuniper g 400

Cover the juniper with water and bring to a boil. Drain and set aside thewater obtained, repeat three times, and proceed:

cooking water g 1300cooked juniper g 400

sugar g 600glucose g 100

vanilla bean no 1Whisk together sugar and cooked juniper, cook gently combining the re-maining ingredients until you get a thicker syrup. Blend, sieve and storein refrigerator.

Juniper crunchIsomalt g 320

juniper jam g 45Cook and allow the Isomalt to dissolve properly. Spread the sugar onSilpat and cool. Pulverize the sheet of sugar produced in a cutter, thenwith the help of a small strainer sprinkle on Silpat. Bake at 168°C for 10minutes and once removed from the oven, before the crunch cools, withthe help of a spatula, spread out in a thin layer, turn upside downon ba-king paper and remove from the Silpat. Store in airtight containers.

For decoration edible flowers of different colours.

SPRING extra virgin olive oil biscuit

IN THE BLOOD ORANGE GRANITA OF CALABRIA, THE SWEET JUICE

IS COMBINED WITH A DILL CENTRIFUGE TO HARMONIZE THE TASTE

AND ADD AROMA TO THE GRANITA. EDIBLE FLOWERS RECALL THE

BEGINNING OF THE SPRING BLOOM AND REQUIRE A DELICATE GE-LATO, FLAVOURED WITH A LIGHT TOUCH OF LEMONADE, FOLLO-WED BY THE FRESHNESS OF WHITE, A SIGN OF PEACE FOR THE

NEW SEASON: THIS WAS THE ORIGIN OF GERANIUM GELATO. THE

CHEWY PART, CONSISTING OF A PEBBLY EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

BISCUIT REFLECTS MY PHILOSOPHY: TO LIGHTEN THE CAKE BY RE-PLACING FAT WITH OIL, FOR THE BENEFIT OF CRISPNESS AND FLA-

VOUR. AND FINALLY THE SPARKLING ITEM, AN ALARM FOR THE

TASTE BUDS: THE THIN CRUNCH FLAVOURED WITH JUNIPER.

Franco Aliberti

Ristorante Vite of San Patrignano

www.ristorantevite.it

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Since last July in London you can sample traditional Italian gelato: the first Ginosales outlet has been opened, run by a company headed by AlessandroGhezzi, born in Russia but originally from Tuscany, a resident for over 15 yearsin London and Yaniv Stein, an Israeli-cum-Londoner. The Italian component isPalmiro Bruschi, head of production, personnel training and franchising.The shop is run by Raul Nardino of Conegliano Veneto and Marianna Raiteri ofAcqui Terme, and it seeks to represent Italian excellence. Popular flavours withthe English are ginger gelato with dark chocolate, or in keeping with local ta-stes, the Guinness sorbet, peanut butter gelato and, among the Italian special-ties, you can enjoy special flavours like Grandma's cookies, egg biscuitswhisked in the classic fiordilatte, Vin Santo and Cantucci to represent Tuscany,Sorrento Lemon, extra virgin olive oil gelato, chocolate and Chianti, celery andParmigiano, and White Coffee. New openings have been scheduled for Japanand Brazil. www.ginogelato.com

ITALIAN DELIGHTS IN LONDON

Alessandro Ghezzi and Palmiro Bruschi in front of Buckingham Palace.

Ghezzi, Yaniv Stein and Bruschi on the opening day.

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Rhino, chim-panzee, snail,rabbit, ele-phant, sheep,cow, hedge-hog, bear, tor-toise: PavoniItalia presentsthe new Cho-cogang line ofthermoformedmoulds tocreate 10 cho-colate animalsquickly and ea-sily. Choco-gang willenliven sprin-gtime with a touch of elegance, in accordance with Pavoni pro-duct range for professional pastry chefs. Each kit includesassembling instructions to obtain 2 animals, heights ranging from130-195 mm, weight 300 g. The company product range is onshow at the Sirha in Lyon, Stand 6H67. www.pavonitalia.com

CHOCOGANG IS COMING

�

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ORGANISED BY:

24-28MARCH

2011

www.intersicop-madrid.ifema.es

IFEMA CALL CENTRE

IFEMA Feria de Madrid28042 MadridSpain

FAX (34) 91 722 57 91

INTERNATIONAL CALLS (34) 91 722 30 00

[email protected]

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RECIPES FROM THE IFSEFOR THE TAGLIOLINI

00 wheat flour g 300semolina flour g 80

cornmeal g 30eggs g 150

egg yolks no 3extra virgin olive oil g 5

salt to taste

Put all the ingredients for the dough in a mixing machine with apinch of salt; knead to get a smooth texture. Let rest in the fridgefor 30 minutes, wrapped in a plastic wrap. Roll out the doughinto 3 mm-thick sheets and cut it into 20 cm long tagliolini with apasta wheel.

IFSE (Italian Food Style Education) is an association based in Piobesi Torinese, near Torino, founded to

spread Italian cuisine philosophy and focusing on health aspects and

gastronomic tradition. The school is directed by Raffaele Trovato and

classes are attended by Italian and foreign students.

www.ifse.it

www.ifse-world.com

www.foodfashion.it

TAGLIOLINI WITH VEGETABLE RAGOUT FOR THE RAGOUT

Pachino cherry tomatoes g 80potatoes g 80

Parmigiano Reggiano cheese g 30

red onions from Tropea g 60 roasted red peppers g 100

lard g 40leek g 40

0 wheat flour to tasteeggplants g 100 asparagus g 100

basil leaves no 12butter g 40

garlic cloves g 40marjoram sprigs no 2

extra virgin olive oil to taste

After peeling the asparagus and cutting off their tips, that will beblanched, cut the stems into small strips. In a sauté pan, sweatthe julienned onions from Tropea in extra virgin olive oil and acrushed garlic clove; add asparagus, peppers and eggplants,sautè on a high heat and cook till done, leaving the asparaguscrunchy; add the hand-torn basil and the finely chopped marjo-ram.In the meantime, peel and seed the cherry tomatoes and cutthem into wedges.Melt the butter with a little extra virgin olive oil, add garlic andsauté, add the pounded lard, the blanched potatoes and dicesmall. Season with salt and pepper, add the vegetables and keepcooking for some more minutes.Cook the pasta in salted boiling water, toss it in a sauté pan withthe vegetable ragout, adding the tomatoes. Before taking off theheat, add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a drizzle of extravirgin olive oil.

IFSE - Italian Food Style Education

Photo Marco Beltramo

High quality production, long term warranty (2 years), low water and energy con-sumption, simplicity of use and maintenance, efficient and quick making of gelato:these are the distinctive features of Valmargelato machines, which are highly appreciatedby many international customers.Valmar was founded more than 20 years agoin Nuova Goriza, Slovenia, and now its machi-nes are installed in famous professional scho-ols: in France the Ecole du Grand ChocolatValrhona in Tain l’Hermitage, the École Natio-nale Supérieure de la Pâtisserie (ENSP) in Yssingeaux and the École des Dessert d’AlainChartier in Theix. “The presence of our machines in these scho-ols – explains Luigi Ardizzone, sales manager–, it is not only a source of pride, but it is alsoa strategic point because of the many profes-sionals from all over the world that can appre-ciate Valmar. We choose to be in the placeswhere tomorrow’s professionals are trained”.www.valmar.eu

INTERNATIONAL GELATO MACHINES

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TEAMS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD ARE COMPETINGIN LYON IN THE 11TH EDITION OF THE COUPE DU

MONDE DE LA PÂTISSERIE (WORLD PASTRY CUP), ON OCCASION OF THE 15TH SIRHA. EMMANUELE FOR-CONE (SUGAR), DOMENICO LONGO (ICE), AND DAVIDE

COMASCHI (CHOCOLATE) ARE THE MEMBERS OF THE ITALIAN TEAM. www.cmpatisserie.com

THE PASTRY WORLD

The Italian team (in the frontrow) with some of the sponsorsand trainers. From left, EnricoBardini of Agrimontana, Gian-carlo Cortinovis, Vittorio San-toro of Cast Alimenti, LucaGennai of Irinox, Livia Chiriottiof "Pasticceria Internazionale",Alessandro Dalmasso andTamar Marchand of Valrhona.

MEETS IN LYON

THE ITALIAN TEAM THANKS ITS SPONSORS

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T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com

My world has changed.My new multifunction helper: Multi Fresh®, Irinox.

Multi Fresh®, a new way of working which goes beyond blast chilling.

Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh® offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profitsand improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlledthawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh® a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 18/2011

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Transcript of PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 18/2011