#19 Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2011

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PASTRY BAKERY GELATO CUISINE CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected] EDITORI Supplemento al n. 239, giugno-luglio-agosto 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2011 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718 issue nineteen-2011 A FOCUS ON WEDDING CAKES AN INTERVIEW WITH GARY RULLI GELATO FESTIVAL ITALIAN RECIPES AT INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS CUISINE TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCTS NEWS

Transcript of #19 Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2011

Page 1: #19 Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2011

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

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issue nineteen-2011

A FOCUS ON WEDDING CAKES

AN INTERVIEW WITHGARY RULLI

GELATO FESTIVAL

ITALIAN RECIPES AT INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS

CUISINE

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCTS

NEWS

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia ChiriottiSENIOR EDITOR

Emilia Coccolo ChiriottiNEWS EDITORS

Cristina QuagliaMilena Novarino Monica Onnis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Chiara CombaTRANSLATIONS

Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR

Monica PagliardiADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Luigi Voglino [email protected] ART DIRECTOR

Studio ImpaginaPRINTED BY

Tipografia Giuseppini

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Editionis happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2011 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 239 June - July - August 2011

ON OUR COVER

Natural lemonAlessandro Racca

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480

[email protected]

In this issue

A focus on wedding cakes

And that makes eight

The 12th World Pastry Cup

Success for the first Juniores Pastry World Cup

Gelato festival

A busy autumn for Identita ̀ Golose

A healthy contrast

SUBSCRIBE ON-L INE

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com

NewsCompact quality preservation

190th anniversary of Sangue Morlacco

From appetizer to dessert

2nd place for Italy at the European Bakery Cup

In Cortemilia, the best hazelnut dessert of Italy

Pure vanilla products

A new egg, lemon and cinnamon dessert

Double Salon du Chocolat in Paris

A consultant as a friend

The 5th gelato World Cup in Sigep

Expos and events in Italy

Italian quality conquers the US professional market

Trendy fantasy

1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition

Small Temptations

Sigep 2012 highlights confectionery worldwide

Cutting boards with antibacterial disposable films

Micron ball refiner

Ciocofantasy in Cornigliano

THE WEBSITE

www.piwwe.comrecipes and interviews subscribe on line

brouse through the mag receive newsletters stay in touch with the pastry and cusine world

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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 1922

A FOCUS ON WEDDING CAKES

3-D butterflies

The recipes and suggestions of some well known Italian pastry chefs

The butterfly cake has a traditional sponge base filled with vanillabutter cream and chocolate chips. The sponge is lightly soaked, only on the inside, using a liquid aroma,that is high in sugar content, flavoured with orange juice or straw-berry. A thin spread of white butter cream enables a complete co-vering with the sugar mass. The decoration consists of previously prepared icing but-terflies.

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egg whites g 40sifted icing sugar g 350

lemon juice g 12Whisk the egg whites, add the icing sugar and beat, lightly at first, thenonce with the sugar incorporated, at maximum speed for one minute.Add the lemon juice and beat for another minute.

PREPARATIONOn baking paper, draw the half butterflies(right and left side), then using the sac-à-poche make a few edges in icing, addinga few drops of water and possibly somecolours of your choice. Let it dry for a day.The next day, fill in the spaces on the in-

side of the dry edge using more liquid icingof a different colour, depending on the re-

quest. Let it dry overnight.The next day, attach the wings with the icingand add the antennas; place them in an une-ven mould that gives the effect of half-closedwings. The ideal is for the butterflies to be sli-ghtly different to each other, both regardingthe opening of the wings and their shape, so

as to look like different species.The work takes a long

time, but the endresult is worth it.

Gino FabbriBologna, Italy

www.ginofabbri.com

Royal icing

Very romantic pink butterflies take flight from the white cake,

in an appealing three-dimensional display. Gino Fabbri decorates with a mass of sugar

and frosting, instead of pulled sugar.

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ALESSANDRO DALMASSO of the Pasticceria Dalmasso ofAvigliana, Turin, is widely regarded for his ceremonial cakes,from children's birthdays to weddings. “There is a difference between eating an Italian cake and asponge – Dalmasso specifies – but the aesthetics require acompromise. So I have it tasted first to make sure the two fla-vours are understood. I prefer clients to taste first in order todecide and understand what they are ordering, if anything sothat they do not complain later. Many who ask for AmericanPie, after having tasted it, change idea." As for the covering,cream has constraints in terms of exposition times, both re-garding delivery and climate; alternatively almond paste can beused. Alessandro adds: "Many customers do not understandand want the cream cake to remain on display for hours: inthese cases I recommend a polystyrene cake with covering,decorations and frosting, while the one for eating is stored inthe kitchen." www.pasticceriadalmasso.com

“This year we have a boom in requests for black & white wedding cakes –, says STEFANO ZIZ-ZOLA, owner of two pastry shops respectively in Noale, near Venezia, and Trebaleseghe, near Pa-dova –. Our typical cakes are usually white and ivory with floreal decorations (roses, orchids andcallas) and most of them (80%) are based on two combinations of tastes. Bresciana Zizzola in-cludes a crunchy and crumbly cocoa and almond short pastry base, a chocolate and coffee biscuitwith a light mascarpone mousse, and it is covered with dark chocolate leaves. Angelina is compo-sed of a crunchy hazelnut short pastry layer, a biscuit with Maraschino and a soft custard with roa-sted almonds. Otherwise, those who prefer more classical tastes can choose between a spongecake or a multilayer millefeuille with chocolate cream or a chantilly with fresh raspberry pulp”.

The sponge helps with the modelling, giving volume and lightness.

For more shiny and realistic effects(to be stored in the refrigerator),

colour the flowers in colouredcocoa-butter frosting instead of the

usual food colouring (photo Altaris).

From left Stilè, a doublelayer sugarpaste cake withchocolate flowers and rib-bons. Rosa Vellutata’s dra-pery, roses and leaves aremade of plastic chocolate;the shiny effect is obtainedsprinkling some pearly pow-der on its surface. Poesia isa “readable” cake: the ver-ses chosen by the bride andbridegroom are written witha decorating tip. Calle is de-corated with the classicalflowers (foto Bononi).

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FABBRI

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Spongeeggs g 1500

glucose g 300sugar g 1500flour g 1500

potato starch g 560 eggs g 1000

honey g 100Heat to 40°C eggs, sugar and glucose, whisk and afterabout 10 minutes drizzle in the honey and egg yolks, thenthe flour. Bake at 170°C for about 25-30 minutes.

Light creamcustard g 1000

soft whipped cream g 400gelatin g 8

Dissolve the gelatin with some of the cream and add thecustard and the remaining cream, being careful not to formlumps of jelly. You should not use the cream very cold atthis stage, because the cold could make the gelatine gelquickly forming lumps.

Almond paste to cover cakepeeled almonds g 500

sugar g 1000glucose g 260

fondant sugar g 2200Pulverize the almonds in a refiner with the ad-

dition of a little sugar icing, then mix thelot, close tightly in clingfilm and let standat room temperature for at least 10hours.

Tips for fillingPrepare the cake the day before, soas to cut it more easily. Each step ofpreparation is important to get aprecise and neat result.Cut the cake into three pieces andsoak with the berry sauce: on thefirst layer apply just cream andsprinkle with crushed caramelizedhazelnuts; on the second, apply alayer of light cream and dried ra-spberries. Cover with the spongeand apply light cream to the surface;cool well. Remove from the mould;apply a thin layer of white buttercream. Cover with almond paste anddecorate with icing, roses and sugar.Combine imagination with functiona-lity. Ceremonial cakes are a serious

undertaking and the bride and bride-groom are very demanding: the sweet

must surprise yet at the same time be re-fined.

Francesco ElmiRegina di Quadri Pasticceria, Bologna

www.reginadiquadri.euPhoto Giancarlo Bononi

White, red dot

This cake with a similar decoration appears in “Il sacrificio di Isacco” (The Sacrifice of Isaac),

an artistic picture by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi, which is inspired by Caravaggio’s

work. Bononi is the author of an impressive photo gallery reproducing the attitudes of the cha-

racters and the wonderful play of shadows and light of the original paintings, but having the mo-

dels dressed with modern clothes and introducing a sweet element in each picture. Francesco

Elmi is the one on the right (see also www.piwwe.com).

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www.luxardo.it

Progetto2_Layout 1 01/06/11 12.06 Pagina 1

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NE

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COMPACT QUALITY PRESERVATIONNice is the newIrinox compactholding cabinet

that fits easily in professional kitchensor labs. It runs both positive (+15°C)and negative temperatures (-25°C)and features Dynamic Power, an ex-clusive cooler specifically designedby Irinox which keeps set holdingtemperatures, avoiding sudden chan-ges that usually occur due to frequentuse and that can damage food. Solid construction, special safety sy-stems (slow magnetic closing) and aspecific control system are a furtherguarantee of constant temperature.The efficiency of the exclusive defro-sting system stops ice forming andthe consequent cut-outs which oftenoccur in ordinary fridges. Nice can beused continuously without having toturn it off to achieve perfect defro-sting. To preserve food properly andto avoid food damage (too dry or toodamp) the right humidity is also im-portant. The humidity control systemmakes it possible to create the idealatmosphere inside the holding cabi-net and levels ranging from 50% to95% can be set to meet individualneeds. www.irinox.com

190th anniversary ofSangue Morlacco

Cherry “Sangue Morlacco” li-queur is Luxardo's second histori-cal speciality after MaraschinoOriginale. It was created in 1821by Girolamo Luxardo as a variantof cherry brandy made with ma-

rasca cherries, i.e. a sourcherry variety exclusively cul-tivated by Luxardo. It is ob-tained by the infusion offermented marasca juiceand it is matured for twoyears in oak vats. Thischerry liqueur was renamedas Sangue Morlacco (Mor-lacco blood) by the Italianpoet Gabriele D'Annunzio in1919, at the time of his mili-tary action in order to haveItaly annex the town ofFiume. “Sangue” refers to its

dark red colour, while "Morlacco" isderived from the name of a proud populationof the Dalmatian hinterland. It is quite differentfrom normal cherry-brandies, because of theintensity of the Marasca sour cherry typicaltaste and the expansion of its after-taste. Itcan be served neat, at room temperature orwith ice, as after dinner drink, as ingredient inmany international cocktails, and it is highlyrecommended with pure dark chocolate.In order to celebrate the 190th anniversary ofthe liquer, the packaging has recently under-gone a restyling, with the introduction of amore rounded-shaped and heavy glass bottle,the use of cork, and an old-fashioned labelwith a small Italian tricolour and D’Annunzio'ssignature. www.luxardo.it

Nice delivers the full quality of an Irinox hol-ding cabinet in a compact version suitable forprofessional kitchens and labs.

2ND PLACE FOR ITALY AT THE EUROPEAN BAKERY CUP

It ended with a prestigious second place for the Italian team ofthe European Bakery Cup held in Nantes, France, in March.Won by Luxembourg, the competition put both the Frenchand Swiss behind the Italians, in a contest that involved thecreation of 6 types of bread and the same number of vienne-serie, as well as a piece of art all in bread, inspired by a monu-ment or place of their country. The three Richemont membersof Italy’s national team were Riccardo Liccione, owner of theAngolo del Pane of Frossasco, Turin, for the vienneserie; IvanMorosin of Torre Boldone, Bologna, for the six types of bread,and Emanuela Isoardi of Bra, Cuneo, for the art piece. Thechosen theme for the various works was the Carnival of Ve-nice.

From appetizer to dessert

A manufacturer of gelato and pastry machines, Bravocomes into the savoury world thanks to Trittico Executive,that can be used to cook, emulsify, temper, cool down andas a blast freezer. The machine cooks in the upper part

and cools in the lower one: the upper vertical tank allows to control thewhole cooking process and to pour each ingredient at the right moment,while in the lower tank the blast freezing and the cooling process occur.Tanks are completely independent and can work simultaneously, thus givingthe opportunity of performing two different processes at the same time. Mo-reover, the two tanks are connected by an internal pipe (one of the 20 pa-tents connected to Trittico) that ensures hygiene and quality, avoiding anypossible alteration during the passage from cooking to blast freezing.Thanks to Trittico Executive additional market shares can be gained throughthe introduction of savoury specialities, since the machine can be used tomake savoury mousses, béchamel sauce, vegetable soufflés, savoury jams,cheese creams, sauces and concentrates. Moreover, through GSG Service(a company of the group specialized in marketing, communication and con-sulting in the dessert business), Bravo offers a consulting day free ofcharge to the buyers of Trittico Executive or Business, with a Bravo TritticoClub expert. www.bravo.it

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AND THAT MAKES EIGHT

In February, Gary Rulli opened his eighth store in San Francisco, in keeping with hisprofessional obligations: since 1988, a boundless respect for Italy

For 22 years, the Emporio Gran Caffe of Larkspur, not far from SanFrancisco (United States), is the kingdom of Gary and Jeannie Rulli.It is the quintessential Italian pastry shop, a café and wine bar. Overtime, this headquarters has been flanked by two cafes and a re-staurant in Union Square in the heart of San Francisco, and four ou-tlets at the international airport.We have written about Gary on a number of occasions (see “Pa-sticceria Internazionale” Nos. 60, 122, 129, 151, 231, 232). Thisprofessional, whose mother is Italian, is a shining example of a se-rious and determined entrepreneur. An honorary member of Acca-demia dei Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, he has a strong attachment toour country, which he visits often and celebrates both with his pa-stries and cuisine, but also through wines and his general educa-tion.Using entrepreneurial skill, a calm manner and an inquisitive and at-tentive spirit, Gary does not hold back on investments. Two of hismost recent projects are in downtown San Francisco: the Banca-

rella Salumi Wine Bar on the busy Union Square (just opposite ano-

ther Rulli business), which is a glass structure with 50 seats. Theother is at 2300 Chestnut Street in San Francisco Marina. Opera-ting since February, this is the renovated Ristobar, appreciated bothfor good Italian food and fabulous wine shop, under sommelier Li-berata Torlontano, including 16 dessert wines and beers, many fromItaly. The interiors are carefully decorated with a large marble coun-ter and frescoes on the walls, especially one on the ceiling whichframes an imposing Venetian glass chandelier. Most online criticsgive favourable reviews and recommend leaving some space for thedessert “because this is where Gary shines, coming up with the bestof Italian-inspired pastries throughout the Bay Area, and around SanFrancisco”. The dessert menu includes 12 suggestions, from a cho-colate trilogy to a pudding with vanilla gelato, cannoli, semifreddo,gelato, and assorted biscuits. After working at the Valentino Restaurant in Santa Monica (Los An-geles), chef Angelo Auriana, a native of Bergamo, indulged himselfin the kitchen, going from rustic to more sophisticated dishes, andstarting with handmade pasta. The menu includes cold meat and

Gary Rulli

Angelo Auriana

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cheese dishes, lamb meatballs with zucchini sauce, pizza and manyother delicacies. An Italian spirit of course pervades the lot.This begs the question: how does Gary manage to run this com-pany, while always remaining calm and approachable? It must havesomething to do with his wife and children (Giancarlo 20, and Ales-sandro 16), as well as his sister Lauren, who manages the variousrooms, and who for the last three years has been accompanied byRandy Wilcox, director of operations.A proven team that runs the various activities: the operational heartremains the central laboratory of Larkspur, from which products leavefor Union Square and, twice a day, to the retail outlets at the airport.

GARY’S WORLD"The more I learn, the more I am passionate about my work!". Withhis light eyes and kind look, Gary traces his career from the UnitedStates to Italy and then back to the United States.

How do you organize your workday?

I start early at the computer, checking sales in all stores; then I ar-rive at 7 in the laboratory to check all the orders of the week. I or-ganise the team, beginning with the working of the yeast anddoughs, both savoury and sweet. Then I have meetings with sup-pliers, with the director of operations and with the shop managers. Ido some admin work, and then meet with staff until evening, whenI supervise the restaurant. You have a new passion to keep you busy, don't you?

At the beginning of 2010 I signed up for a university course on orga-nic vegetable gardens, and I now also set aside some time for my ve-getable patch at home. Last season I harvested over 25 pounds oftomatoes a day for the cafeteria and restaurant. It took two years todevelop my own organic vegetable patch in the hills of San Rafael,where I can grow several varieties of lettuce, tomatoes, fresh herbs ...and even berries. It is a useful hobby that also relieves a lot of stress!

On the left, gluttony in a glass: rum baba with caramelized pistachios, mandarin and orange sauce. Italian-style mignon.

The cover of the 2011 calendar that the Emporio Rulli distributed to custo-mers. The picture shows Union Square with one of Rulli's shops on the farright. On the right, petits fours clearly of Italian tradition.

PAS

TRY

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cheese dishes, lamb meatballs with zucchini sauce, pizza and manyother delicacies. An Italian spirit of course pervades the lot.This begs the question: how does Gary manage to run this com-pany, while always remaining calm and approachable? It must havesomething to do with his wife and children (Giancarlo 20, and Ales-sandro 16), as well as his sister Lauren, who manages the variousrooms, and who for the last three years has been accompanied byRandy Wilcox, director of operations.A proven team that runs the various activities: the operational heartremains the central laboratory of Larkspur, from which products leavefor Union Square and, twice a day, to the retail outlets at the airport.

GARY’S WORLD"The more I learn, the more I am passionate about my work!". Withhis light eyes and kind look, Gary traces his career from the UnitedStates to Italy and then back to the United States.

How do you organize your workday?

I start early at the computer, checking sales in all stores; then I ar-rive at 7 in the laboratory to check all the orders of the week. I or-ganise the team, beginning with the working of the yeast anddoughs, both savoury and sweet. Then I have meetings with sup-pliers, with the director of operations and with the shop managers. Ido some admin work, and then meet with staff until evening, whenI supervise the restaurant. You have a new passion to keep you busy, don't you?

At the beginning of 2010 I signed up for a university course on orga-nic vegetable gardens, and I now also set aside some time for my ve-getable patch at home. Last season I harvested over 25 pounds oftomatoes a day for the cafeteria and restaurant. It took two years todevelop my own organic vegetable patch in the hills of San Rafael,where I can grow several varieties of lettuce, tomatoes, fresh herbs ...and even berries. It is a useful hobby that also relieves a lot of stress!

On the left, gluttony in a glass: rum baba with caramelized pistachios, mandarin and orange sauce. Italian-style mignon.

The cover of the 2011 calendar that the Emporio Rulli distributed to custo-mers. The picture shows Union Square with one of Rulli's shops on the farright. On the right, petits fours clearly of Italian tradition.

PAS

TRY

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 9

How does the main lab serve the other stores?

We cook three times a day: at 6, at 11 and at 9, supplying fresh productsto the airport shops which are open from 5 a.m. to midnight, 365 days a

year, as well as the shops in Union Square, open from 7 to22, 364 days a year. All the pastry is produced in Larkspur,except for what is made in Ristobar, which has its own pro-duction area.How do you mix Italian culture with American tastes?

Since 1988 we have always aspired to be authentic. Aftermore than 22 years, we still do not offer muffins, bagels orAmerican-style cakes. It has not always been the easy way orthe most profitable, but I think it has allowed us to be unique,proud of our craftsmanship and of our Italian roots.New recipes, new tastes and new forms: how do you come up

with innovations?

I have collected cookbooks and magazines for years. I believein being continually up-to-date and I tend to personalise everyrecipe. I have good memories of when I was a trainee in Milanand Turin, and I often find myself looking for classic creationsof the period, aiming to mix them with contemporary expe-riences.What is your favourite dessert?

Anything with apples, which remind me of homemade cakes.What Italian dishes do your customers prefer?

Without doubt the panettone and the whole range of leavenedproducts for breakfast, as well as biscuits. Among the cakes,the San Francisco with baked meringue and fresh raspberries,and the Saint-Honoré.What festive leavened products do you offer?

In addition to the panettone and pandoro, the Yule Log, theMorenita (with meringue, fruit and whipped cream) and theGenoese, in addition to Befanini (aniseed biscuits), colombe,the pastiera and zeppole.How do you see the future of our industry?

As a craftsman, I believe that we must continue to differen-tiate ourselves with quality, expanding our markets, and usingthe internet, not just selling more, but educating consumersand promoting the craftsman's way of doing things. Quality atthe highest level is the only way forward.

http://rulli.com - ristobarsf.com

Two Ristobar specialties.Below, an Italian style selection of cakes.

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Rustic pistachio basecaster sugar g 750

fresh egg whites g 1500powdered egg whites g 10

peeled almonds g 800pistachios g 1200

icing sugar g 600yeast g 20

potato starch g 200 ground pistachios to decorate g 200Grind almonds, icing sugar, potato starch, yeast, and pistachios in theblender to obtain a coarse mixture. Beat the egg whites until stiff, ad-ding the sugar a little at a time. Wet the 3.5 cm high steel rings withwater and pour the first mixture into the second one, being careful withthe egg whites as in a normal sponge biscuit. With a pastry bag and aplain nozzle, make spirals on a baking sheet and then create spikes onthe edge of the rings to get a border. Drop the crushed pistachios on the

SPRING

board, as decoration, and add a little icing sugar. Bake at 170°C for 15-20 minutes. Store in a freezer at -20°C if required, or use immediatelyonce cold.

Garnishmascarpone g 500

cream g 500pistachio paste g 100

icing sugar g 200whipped cream g 300

Whisk the cream, mascarpone and pistachio paste. Add the whippedcream with sugar and mix until smooth. With a pastry bag, make spiralsfrom the centre with the pistachio cream until you reach the edge of therustic base. Cover the cream with fresh raspberries; sprinkle some pi-stachios and icing sugar over top. Store in refrigerator at 3°C for 2 daysat most.

Gary RulliSan Francisco, Usa

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

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10

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color EX

plus EX

injection

comfit maxi

Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - www.selmi-group.it - [email protected]

Futura r200

selmi_wwe.indd 1 23/12/10 09.38

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THE 12TH

WORLD PASTRY CUPAt the 12th World Pastry Cup – held in January in Lyon-Eurexpo,France, as a part of the Sirha – Spain won: Jordi Bordas San-tacreu, Josep Maria Guerola and Julien Alvarez were awardedthe trophy created by Antoine Arnaud, the gold medal, and also €12,000 in prize money. Italy achieved second place with DavideComaschi, Domenico Longo and Emmanuele Forcone: they

won the silver medal and € 7,000 in prize money, thanks to theirdesserts and artistic works inspired to the magic creatures of anenchanted wood (see the following pages). The Belgian teamcame out third: Dieter Charels, Marijns Coertens and PascalDe Deyne won the bronze medal and € 4,000 in prize money. Se-veral special prizes were also given, such as the press award of-fered by “Pasticceria Internazionale” to Japan.Each team was composed of a pastry chef, a chocolate specialistand a gelato maker, while the jury – presided over by Jérôme DeOliveira, leader of the team that won the 2009 edition – includedjudges from the 19 participating countries. Gabriel Paillasson,president founder, and Pascal Molines, president of the Interna-tional Organising Committee, were partnered by the Japanese pa-stry chefs Mitsuo Hara and Kazuaki Takaï as honorarypresidents of the event. The next edition is scheduled from 26 to 30 January 2013 in Lyon.The Organising Committe decided to strengthen the presence ofAfrican teams at the 13th edition of the World Pastry Cup and thusorganized the first edition of the Coupe d’Afrique last March, whichwas won by Egypt. Also the Ivory Coast team has been admittedto the international competition. www.cmpatisserie.com

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Above, the Italian team. Shown here, Gabriel Paillasson interviewed by thespeaker during the competition.

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ENCHANTMENT IS A PLATED DESSERT MADE WITH CUPCAKES,

CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE, MASCARPONE GELATO, MASCARPONE CRÉMEUX,

WHITE COFFEE AND AMALFI LEMON LIGHT MOUSSE.

ALCHEMY IS A GELATO CAKE MADE WITH SPONGE CAKE WITH PISTACHIO,

PISTACHIO AND MASCARPONE GELATO, MANGO, BANANA AND STRAWBERRY SORBET,

RASPBERRY GELLY, MERINGUE AND CITRUS PARFAIT.

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As mythological characters of the woods, the nymphs of oak trees, ordryads, embody the strength and luxuriance of vegetation. The evocativepower of the flavours, the magic of consistencies, and the harmony of co-lours: they all take us back to enchantment. From a thin chocolatesponge are diffused the flavours of cocoa and vanilla, the fragrance ofhazelnut, the freshness of exotic fruits, finally to meet the consistency ofthe almond brittle and the surprise of the glaze covering.

Thin chocolate sponge cakeyolks g 280sugar g 190

egg whites g 360sugar g 120

Ovoneve g 4cocoa g 40

Valrhona 64% Tainori chocolate g 160flour g 80

cream g 160 Whisk the egg yolks slightly heated with sugar, whisk in the meantime theegg whites with sugar, cream of tartar and the Ovoneve. In the meantime,create an emulsion of chocolate and cream. Combine the two whippedmasses, add the sieved powder and finally the emulsion of chocolateand cream. Spread thin, bake valve closed at 220°C for about 8 minu-tes.

Custard basemilk g 345

cream g 230yolk g 128

sugar g 58vanilla pod no. 1

Boil milk and cream with the vanilla, add egg yolks mixed in advance withthe two sugars and bake at 83°C. Strain and use immediately.

Manjari moussecustard g 325

Manjari chocolate 64% g 380 whipped cream uht Corman g 450

Create an emulsion with the custard and hot chocolate, when the mix-ture is at 38°C, lighten it with whipped cream.

Mango, passion fruit and banana gelatinpassion fruit

puree Ravifruit g 63mango puree g 38

mashed banana g 25sugar g 25

gelatin g 28water g 14

Melt some of the puree with sugar and gelatin rehydrated, add the re-maining puree, strain and reduce temperature.

Crunchy hazelnutJivara milk chocolate 40% g 36

almonds and hazelnut praline 60% Valrhona g 24

hazelnut paste Agrimontana g 30liquid butter Valrhona g 5

sablé Breton calibrated grain g 55Eclat d'Or g 45

Nymphchocolate cake

passion fruit powder g 1,5calibrated caramelized

hazelnuts g 30Melt the liquid butter and the chocolate, the praline and hazelnut paste.Mix well with the passion fruit powder and add the chopped crunchy.Spread on a thick bar.

Vanilla mascarpone creamsugar g 120water g 31yolks g 80

mascarpone g 325cream g 325

Italgel Fast gelatin g 7Tahiti vanilla bean n. 1

Orizaba chocolate caramelcaster sugar g 138liquid butter g 24

butter Corman g 24 fresh cream g 268

glucose g 12 salt g 5

vanilla cocktail g 6Orizaba chocolate g 199

cocoa butter g 23Italgel Fast gelatin g 6

Sablé Bretonegg yolks g 160

caster sugar g 320butter g 320

flour g 450baking powder g 30

salt g 5Whip the egg yolks with sugar. Meanwhile, sift together the flour and ba-king powder. When the yolks are installed, add the butter cream, then themixture of flour and yeast. Spread then 5 mm on a plate and let it sit be-fore cooking or store in a freezer, uncooked. Cook, fan on at 155°-160°C.

Cocoa glazewater g 50 sugar g 376

cream uht Corman g 416gelatin Italgelatine g 32

water g 160cocoa g 135

gelatin g 500Boil water with gelatin, add the cream and boil, then sugar and boil, thencocoa and boil and finally rehydrated gelatin and simmer. Emulsify and fil-ter. Chill. Use at 35°C.

Caramelized hazelnutswater g 80 sugar g 200

hazelnuts g 500

Emmanuele ForconeDavide ComaschiDomenico Longo

Luigi Biasetto (president)Alessandro Dalmasso (coach)

Team Italy

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The Club della Coupe du Monde - Selezione Italia thanks

THE MAGIC CREATURES OF THE ENCHANTED WOOD: THE ITALIAN SHOWPIECES.

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GREETINGS FROM SICILY

CANNOPIGNOLATA

Meringuesugar kg 1

egg whites no 15lemon juice, cocoa,

vanilla and cinnamon to taste

Prepare the meringue and let it cool down.Prepare, for the cannolo, a paste using the ingredients for the exteriordough and fry in the lard, using a tin cylinder. Having made it rest a little,mix the ingredients for the biscuit dough, form into 4 cm pieces and fryin lard at 120°C.Separate the cooled meringue into two parts. In one, add the lemon juice,in the other chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon. Mix with the cooled cookieand fill the big cannolo so it is white on one side and dark on the other.

Nino CostantinoMessina

Photo Salvatore Farina

Exterior doughflour kg 1

sugar g 100lard g 100

wine g 300pure alcohol g 50

egg no 4

Pignolata cookieManitoba flour g 600

eggs no 8egg yolks no 6

pure alcohol g 70lard to taste

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SUCCESS FOR THEFIRST JUNIORES PASTRY WORLD CUP

The Italian team triumphed at the first edition ofthe Juniores Pastry World Cup, reserved tounder 23 international pastry chefs, which tookplace last January in Rimini, during Sigep. Trainedby the team manager Federico Anzellotti and thecoach Gianluca Fusto, the young winners AndreaBorgognoni and Antonio Daloiso were follo-wed by South Korea and France at the end ofa contest involving 10 national teams, includingalso Brasil, Morocco, Mexico, Singapore, UnitedStates, South Africa and Switzerland. The video isavailable online, www.sigep.it

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For 24 moulds

Coffee and mascarpone sorbetmineral water g 1337

granulated sugar g 354atomized glucose g 118

invert sugar g 59skimmed milk powder g 243stabilizing agent SE 64 g 12

mascarpone cheese g 825coffee beans g 147

coffee powder g 7Heat the water to 60°C. Add the coffee beans, previously heated in ovenat 150°C. Soak for 40 minutes. Bring to a boil, filter, weigh and add thewater until you get the initial weight (120 g). Add to the stabilizing agentpart of the granulated sugar. Add the milk powder to the water and heatto 20°C. Then add invert sugar and heat to 25°C. Then add the atomi-zed glucose and at 45°C the sugar with the stabilizing agent. Bring it to82°-84°C. Allow to cool in iced water. Heat the base at 20°C and emul-sify with cold mascarpone. Cream at -7°C.

Frozen chocolate mousse whole UHT milk g 119

glucose syrup g 95egg yolk g 71

granulated sugar g 71Extra Noire chocolate 53% g 179

MY DEAR...coffee gelato stick

chocolate liqueur g 24UHT cream 35% g 190

Boil the milk and sugar. Mix the egg yolks with the sugar. Dilute the hotmilk on the egg yolk in 3 to 4 passes. Coagulate all at 84°C. Put in themeasuring jug and mix. Emulsify the custard over the chocolate as usual.Whip the cream lightly, add the chocolate liqueur. Bring the two massestogether. Pour into moulds and blast chill.

Espresso coffee gelatinBlue Mountain Espresso g 193

mineral water g 169xanthan gel g 2

granulated sugar g 171fresh lemon zest g 171

gelatin sheets or powder 200 g 3Add the xanthan gel to the sugar. Dilute in a carafe a little at a time themixture of sugar water. Mix at least 5 minutes. Bring to a boil. Add the ge-latine previously soaked. Add the espresso coffee and mix. Add thelemon zest. Strain and refrigerate.

Chocolate icing Guanaja chocolate

cocoa butterHeat the chocolate to 45°C, add the cocoa butter. Mix everything well,in order to refine the micron structure of icing.

Andrea BorgognoniAntonio Daloiso

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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 19From the left, It all began, the Italian entremets. Walking on leaves; Between summer and winter; Autumn: the three Italian bonbons. Above, the Italian team.

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PURE VANILLA PRODUCTS

Nielsen-Massey Vanillas has been producingpure vanilla products since 1907, for manu-

facturers of premium ice creams, gelato andnovelties, chefs of fine restaurants and bake-ries. Whether for industrial or retail use, Niel-

sen-Massey's Pure Vanillas are sought fortheir flavor and varied functionality. The com-pany’s corporate headquarters is located inWaukegan, Illinois, USA, with ISO certified

production facilities in both Waukegan and atNielsen-Massey Vanillas International, LLC in

Leeuwarden, Netherlands. All vanilla productsare Kosher certified, gluten-free certified, and

they have been a certified organic producersince 1998.

Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla BeanPaste is a quality product, which is the bestof both worlds — pure vanilla with the addi-

tion of real vanilla bean seeds. It adds an all-natural gourmet appearance to any recipe

and is ideal for crème brûlée, cakes, gelato,and icings. www.NielsenMassey.com

Double Salon du Chocolat in Paris

The third edition of the biennialSalon du Chocolat Professionnelwill take place from 19th to 21st Oc-tober in Paris, Porte de Versailles.The event will gather chocolatiers,pastry chefs, confectioners and ge-lato makers, offering a comprehen-sive view of the market with the

whole industry represented – producing countries, ingre-dients and raw materials, equipment, packaging, interiordesign, training... – and with seminars, conferences andcompetitions, such as Les Masters de la Glace, the Inter-national Cocoa Awards, and the World Chocolate Ma-sters, organized by Barry Callebaut. 19 participants havebeen selected as best National Chocolate Masters andwill compete for the title World Chocolate Master 2011,working on the theme “Cocoa, Quetzalcoatl's Gift”.The Salon Grand Public will be staged from 20th to 24th

October giving space to international exhibitors, more than200 chefs and pastry chefs (also some Relais Dessertsmembers), demos, shows, a defilé of chocolate dresses,meetings, labs, tastings...www.salon-du-chocolat.com www.worldchocolatemasters.com

In Cortemilia, the best hazelnut dessert of Italy

After the successof last year, thetown of Cortemilia,in the province ofCuneo, announces

the 2nd edition of The Best Hazelnut Dessertof Italy, which is held on 28 August duringthe 12th IGP Piedmont Hazelnut Fair. Profes-sionals throughout Italy are invited by the or-ganizing committee – which, in addition to theMunicipality, includes Livia Chiriotti of "Pastic-ceria Internazionale" and Paolo Massobrio ofGolosario – to compete in six categories: bestcookie, best cake, best gelato, best fresh pa-stry, best chocolate bonbon, and best CremaNovi sweet. Five professionals from each ca-tegory receive a nomination for the final,which will gives the individual winners plusthe overall winner, who wins the prize forBest Hazelnut Dessert of Italy 2011. The jurycomprises journalists and technicians fromthe world of food and wine. The special prize"Pasticceria Internazionale - Comune di Cor-temilia" is issued to a person of internationalfame for his/her use of IGP Piedmontese [email protected]

A new egg, lemon and cinnamon dessert

By launching Ken Postres UHT internatio-nally, Ken continues to broaden its range ofproducts for professionals. It contains 100%natural ingredients which blend into a creamcontaining eggs, milk, cream, sugar, lemonand cinnamon. By introducing this product,Ken allows professionals to elaborate threedesserts while maintaining the traditional fla-vor that a handcrafted dessert should pro-vide. The cream must be taken to boilingpoint in order to obtain a crème brulée, war-med up without reaching its boiling point toobtain a custard, or served as it comes. KenPostres UHT is gluten-free and thereforeadequate for celiac consumers; it has a shelf-life of 180days if kept at room temperature and must be kept at 0º-5ºC once opened. It is sold in individual Tetra Brik packsof 1.5 litres. www.skisa.com

CRÈME BRULÉEHeat over a low fire until it simmers (approx. 85ºC).Pour into bowls and allow to settle for at least 20 minutesat room temperature.Cool down (0º-5ºC) for at least an hour before serving.Sprinkle caster sugar over the top and caramelise using amini-blow torch or iron broiler.

CUSTARDHeat over very low fire until thick.

READY TO USEOpen the packaging and allow the product to settle andachieve room temperature.Pour in the desired bowls.Sprinkle some cinnamon over the surface.

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A consultant as a friend

Gelato maker Giovannino Fittipaldi travelsaround the world in order to spread gelato

culture, as he’s doing in Dubai and not onlyfor the Cavalli and Bo-House Cafè. If youwant to contact him, [email protected]

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ApprovedEvent

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GELATO FESTIVAL

WATER BASED FRUIT FLAVOUR

Why milk is not requiredIn the past, sorbet probably had the lion's share of the market, onlyto be ousted from its position at the start of twentieth century, thanksto industry and its massive use of milk. Milk is a primary food forhuman consumption, but today, due to many allergies, its use is li-mited or eliminated altogether in many foods, including fruit sorbetsand gelato made with water only. This means an excellent fruit ge-lato can be made without having to resort to liquid milk or powder.

How to maintain the softness We get the creaminess and keep it soft thanks to the perfect ba-lance of ingredients and of the sugars in the mixture. The sugar con-tent should be between 25 and 32% of the total. They are:

• sucrose (65-80%) more common, less expensive, but too swee-tening;

• glucose syrup 42DE (20-35%) provides viscosity, controls cry-stallization, but is difficult to dose;

• dried glucose syrup at 38DE (20-40%) provides higher viscositythan just syrup, it increases the total solids without changing therecipe, and it decreases the feeling of cold on the palate;

• maltodextrins 18DE (2-5%) more concentrated, with almost iden-tical characteristics to dried glucose syrup, but with a higher cost;

• inulin (1-5%) gives creaminess to gelato and sorbets, reduces thecalories and sweetness, and has a higher price.

How much fruit in gelato?After considering the sugars, we can examine how much fruit weneed for a water-based gelato with a long-lasting taste on the pa-late. The fruit is subdivided into body, taste and consistency:strong lemon, lime, bitter orange, citrus, tropical fruits in general;

average almost all the fruit pulps;weak apples, melons and watermelons.With regards lemon juice, we must keep to a maximum of 25%; foraverage fruits we need between 50 and 60%, while for the weakfruit we might need up to 80%, without the use of water. The follo-wing are some examples.

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MARA DES BOIS STRAWBERRY

28% sugar, 50% pulp3000 g (small bowl)

Mara des Bois strawberry pulp g 1500sucrose g 505

dried glucose syrup 38DE g 180neutral for cold fruit g 15

lukewarm water g 800Clean and blend the strawberries with 100 g of sucrose to obtain apuree. Mix the remaining sugar with the other powder ingredientsand pour in warm water at 40°C. Stir until completely dissolved,add the strawberry pulp and whip as usual.

Note The strawberry as we understand it, red and juicy, is not a fruitbut an inflorescence; the fruits are the small seeds located on thesurface. In French gardens it was used as an ornamental and me-dicinal plant, later to become the fruit of the court of Louis XV ofFrance. It originated in Britain, and the Mara des Bois variety is cer-tified as a cultivar. Its intense bouquet is reminiscent of wild straw-berries; although relatively small, it is of outstanding sweetness andflavour. It is also quite a hardy plant.

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PAS

TRY

water g 1800sucrose g 500

glucose syrup 42DE g 7522% cocoa g 150

dextrose g 15neutral for cold fruit g 10

Ecuador chocolate 75% g 450Boil the water and add all powder ingredients previously mixed dry. Ha-ving obtained the solution, add the chopped chocolate and whisk asusual.

Note: In this recipe we have a lower percentage of neutral, thanks to thecocoa butter as a stabilizer, naturally present in chocolate.

ECUADOR CHOCOLATESORBET

28% sugar, 22% lemon juice3000 g (small bowl)

fresh Ligurian lemon juice g 600 sucrose g 550

dried glucose syrup 38DE g 150neutral for cold fruit g 15

inulin g 35warm water g 1650

Grate the lemon zest in a part of sucrose (50 g), thensqueeze the lemons to get the juice. Mix the remainingsucrose and all other dry ingredients and pour in warmwater at 40°C. Stir until completely dissolved, add thejuice and sugar with the zest and mix as usual.

Note: The 4 seasons lemon, for its quality and aroma (li-monin), is grown exclusively in Liguria, in northern Italy.This variety is indeed very resistant to the cold and toparasites that commonly attack other citrus fruits.

Alessandro Raccaphotos Giancarlo Bononi

(many thanks to Carpigiani for the shooting)

NATURAL LEMON

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Berry sorbetSarfrutta 50 g 180

water g 2000sucrose g 670

blueberry puree g 1000wildberry paste g 145

dextrose g 70dried glucose syrup g 70

lemon juice g 5Mix the Sarfrutta 50 base with sucrose, dextrose and dried glucosesyrup; pour the water at 40°C and mix. Combine the wildberry pastawith the blueberry puree; blend. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes andcream.

Berries, oranges and pepper pochéberries g 750

oranges g 250sugar g 700

dried glucose syrup g 400pectin g 5sugar g 30

citric acid g 3sugar (sucrose) g 20

Place in the saucepan the sugar, glucose syrup, sliced oranges, and ber-ries and bring to a boil. Combine the pectin with 30 g of sugar and bakeat 65°C for 30 minutes. Add citric acid mixed with 20 g of sugar. Checkthe pH, which should reach about 3.4 to 4. Put into sterilized jars, closequickly, flip and place in cold water for several minutes.This procedure allows the amylopectin to act and have a smooth andcreamy texture, as well as protecting the natural colour of the fruit.

AssemblyServe with poché of fruit with berry sorbet in bowl or small vase. Garnishwith fresh mint, dried oranges and green pepper.

Emanuele Saracinowww.saracinogelati.com

photo Roberto Sammartini

BERRY SORBET ANDORANGES AND PEPPER POCHÉ

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GE

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white base g 870almond paste g 100

orange flower water g 30Add the almond paste to the orange flower water and white base; cream.Decorate with pine-seeds and fresh dates filled with almonds.

Farida Haggiagiphoto Salvatore Farina

ENCOUNTER gelato cup Ken Cream. The queen of freshness.

All this quality is just too much for a litre!To contain such immense freshness, we’ve created a 1.5 litre

carton. KEN cream is a traditional product which, thanks to

fast processing, heat treatment and innovative package, stays

fresh longer. A unique cream available in numerous formulas

to meet the various needs of professionals cooking and pastry.

KEN EUROPE, S.R.L.: M. Azzarita, 206 – 00189 Roma - Italy. Tel.: +39 06 33250200LIASA, Lacteos Industriales Agrupados S.A.: Av. Rìo Henares, 80. Pol. Ind. Ròdano - 19208 Alovera - Guadalajara. Spain. Tel.: +34 949 266 510

www.skisa.com

Revolutionises the concept of cream.

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Ken Cream. The queen of freshness.

All this quality is just too much for a litre!To contain such immense freshness, we’ve created a 1.5 litre

carton. KEN cream is a traditional product which, thanks to

fast processing, heat treatment and innovative package, stays

fresh longer. A unique cream available in numerous formulas

to meet the various needs of professionals cooking and pastry.

KEN EUROPE, S.R.L.: M. Azzarita, 206 – 00189 Roma - Italy. Tel.: +39 06 33250200LIASA, Lacteos Industriales Agrupados S.A.: Av. Rìo Henares, 80. Pol. Ind. Ròdano - 19208 Alovera - Guadalajara. Spain. Tel.: +34 949 266 510

www.skisa.com

Revolutionises the concept of cream.

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A busy autumn forIDENTITÀ GOLOSEAn eventful autumn awaits the team of Identità Golose - the international chef congress. They are busy exporting the successful formatabroad and the first rendez-vous will be in London, October 18, where an Open Day on the best of new Italian cuisine will be organized. Thetraditional Milanese formula of the congress will be changed into a programme of live performances, i.e. meetings/classes with chefs, tastingsof high quality products and a gala dinner. They will take place in the prestigious Town Hall Hotel in the heart of the East End, a lively districtof the capital of England. The main show will be held in the luxury De Montfort Suite, the biggest in London, while some smaller suites equip-ped with kitchen units will welcome the partners of the event and their hosts. On 31 October and 1 November Identità Golose will move to New York City. Six well known Italian chefs – Massimo Bottura, CarloCracco, Moreno Cedroni, Gennaro Esposito, Davide Scabin and Emanele Scarello – will be guests of Oscar Farinetti at Eataly, where theywill work four hands with six American chefs – Mario Batali, David Chang, Jonathan Benno, Michael White, Mark Ladner and Missy Robbins– in the thematic restaurants of the mecca of Italian food in New York. In November Identità Golose will go back to Italy in Rome, at theOpen Colonna premises, on the top floor of Palazzo delle Esposizioni, with a preview of the main congress, which will be held in Milan, 5-7 February 2012.The following recipe was presented by Mehmet Gürs, the owner of Mikla restaurant in Istanbul, in January during the last edition of Iden-tità Golose in Milan. www.identitagolose.it

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Sweetened Pumpkin PR Yield: approx 30 pieces

unslaked lime (Quicklime) g 300water No. 1 lt 1.5

pumpkin (approx. 30 pieces) g 1000sugar g 2000

water No. 2 g 1200lemon juice g 10

cloves ea 3Put the unslaked lime in a deep container and very carefully add waterNo.1 on top slowly (protective goggles are a good idea). Do not breathein the steam that rises. Leave “lime water” to rest for 24 hours until thelime sets and separates from the water. Using a ladle carefully retrieve the “clear” water on top and transfer to acontainer.Peel the pumpkin and use the firm flesh close to the rind. Cut the pum-pkin into 3.5 x 2.5 x 1cm pieces. Put the pumpkin pieces into the clearlime water. Weigh down with a rack to completely immerse the pumpkin.Make sure the pumpkin pieces do not stick to each other. Each pieceneeds to “breathe” in the water.Put the sugar, water No. 2, lemon juice and cloves in a sauce pan. Mixwith a whisk until the sugar dissolves and bring to a light simmer. Removethe pumpkin pieces from the lime water and wash well under runningwater. Put pumpkin pieces into the simmering (induction 3) sugar syrup,place a rack on top to make sure the pumpkins are completely immersed.During the cooking, remove the pumpkins from the syrup every half hourand “oxygenate” them for 20 seconds before continuing the cooking pro-cess. Cook the pumpkin for approx 2 hours until they are crunchy on theoutside and have a translucent golden brown.

PUMPKIN Remove the pan from heat and let the pumpkin cool down to room tem-perature in the cooking syrup. Store covered in the syrup at room tem-perature.

Early harvest Antep pistachio ice cream PRYield: g 700pure Antep pistachio paste g 250

whole milk g 500Put the pistachio paste in a medium size mixing bowl. Add milk slowly andwhisk well. Transfer the mixture in a Paco Jet container. Freeze overnight

AssemblyYield: 1 portion

sweetened pumpkin PR pcs 3early harvest Antep

pistachio ice cream PR g 20hand crushed sesame

paste “Sürtme” g 5grape molasses g 5

early harvest pistachios, peeled & roastedCrumble the pistachios. Place the pumpkins on the plate. Arrange 5drops each of the molasses and sesame paste on the plate. Make a lineof the crumbled pistachios. Place a quenelle of ice cream on top of thepistachio crumbles.

Mehmet GürsMikla Restaurant, Istanbul, Turchia

www.miklarestaurant.comphoto Brambilla-Serrani

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1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition

The Chicago School of Mold Making organizes the 1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition (CRPC) for wor-king pastry chefs in the Chicago area. The single day competition will take place on October 16 and chefs willbe asked to make 8 plates of an original, creative and innovative plated dessert and 8 servings of a dessert

amuse from a mystery box. The winner will bethe one that presents the most creative andbest tasting desserts among the five finalists,selected among city's top pastry talents by ajudging panel, that includes chefs Curtis Duffy(Alinea, Avenues), Della Gossett (Charlie Trot-ter, French Pastry School) and Jimmy MacMil-lan (Avenues, JMPUREPASTRY). Gold, silver and bronze prizes will bepresented to the top finishers, including also classes and gift certificates for sili-cone molds, pastry equipment, Chocovic chocolate, and more.The competition will be videotaped and broadcast on the web via media partnersStarchefs.com and “Pasticceria Internazionale” and on competition day the doorswill be closed allowing only the competitors, judges and special guests. “Star-chefs.com and Pasticceria Internazionale will help us broadcast the event, thedesserts, and Chicago’s pastry chefs around the globe – says MacMillan –. I be-lieve the quality of our pastry scene is world class; we want to share their work atthe competition with the world.”www.chicagomoldschool.com

Small Temptations

Silikomart is an Italian company established by a sole administrator, DarioMartellato, that constantly reinforces its status as leader in the market forsilicone moulds for professional use, thanks to the launch of innovative so-lutions for an increasingly demanding public. Quality, versatility, efficiencyand design make it a creditworthy trademark where culinary art takes

shape stimulating professional creativity.The new 60x40 cm Mini Pyramid (Vol. 11x77 ml Tot. 847 ml), Mini Cube (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml)and Mini Twist (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml) moulds are an addition to the “sessantaperquaranta”(60x40cm) collection of the Silikomart Professional division. These moulds are suitable for the making ofsweet and savoury, classic and creative, as well as innovative and traditional mignon and biscuits, andtheir size causes a more efficient use of cooking surfaces and a reduction of preparation times. Withtheir flexible non-stick structure and special gloss finish, these moulds in 100% food grade silicone arefit for freezing and for cooking, both in fan and microwave ovens. www.silikomart.com

SIGEP 2012 HIGHLIGHTS CONFECTIONERY WORLDWIDE

Sigep, the international exhibition for the artisanproduction of gelato, pastry, confectionery andbakery, will take place at Rimini Fiera in January,between 21th and 25th January 2012 on a90,000 m2 area with 750 companies. The program will include special events andcompetitions. The Gelato World Cup will be

back, expanded to 12 nations and dedicated to the theme “Fruits of the Earth andSea” (see on page...). The Pastry Queen will be the first female internationalchampionship, with ten lady pastry chefs from the five continents showing theirskills in four tests (cake, plated dessert, sugar sculpture and a surprise test). TheGrand Gala of Pastry will host the winners of the World Cup in Lyon, those of Ri-mini’s Junior World Cup and the new elected pastry queens with the works thatmade them “famous”. The program will also include the national Junior Pastry andChocolate Championship, to appoint the members of the Italian team taking partin 2013 World Championship, and the Italian Senior Championship, to choosethe members of the Italian team taking part in 2013 World Championship in Lyon.Sigep Giovani, Sigep Bread Cup, 1000 ideas for a new gelato flavour, etc...will also take place. The exhibition will give space to the new BIOSIGEP area, de-dicated to companies that have introduced the use of organic products in artisanconfectionery. www.sigep.it

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Chef Jimmy MacMillan and Mi-chael Joy, founder of the Chica-go School of Mold Making. Onthe left, the classroom wherethe competition will take place.

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THE 5TH GELATO WORLD CUP IN SIGEP

The Gelato World Cup is a biennial event involving gelatomakers, confectioners and chefs from all over the world. Itrepresents a unique occasion for professional meetings and

it enjoys a strong media exposure, aimed at giving internationalresonance to the new trends in the artisan gelato world. Argentina, Australia, Brazil, France, Germany, Japan, Italy,Morocco, Spain, United States, Switzerland and Turkey are

the 12 countries that will take part in the 5th edition of the competi-tion, which will be held in Italy in Rimini, during Sigep, the internatio-

nal exhibition of artisan gelato, confectionery and bakery, from 21 to 24 January2012. Each team will include 5 members: team manager (who will also be a memberof the international panel of judges), gelato maker, confectioner, ice sculptor andchef. During the 4 days each team will be asked to make a decorated table-servicecup, a gelato cake, a decorated sales tub, a gelato cone, an entrée with gastronomicgelato, and a gelato dessert on the theme “Fruits (gifts) of the Land and Sea”. Thetechnical panel of judges chaired by Mauro Petrini and the honorary chairman Jean-Claude David (the captain of the French team that won the fourth edition in 2010)will choose the winning team under the watchful eyes of the competition commissio-ners, Sergio Dondoli and Sergio Colalucci. The prize giving ceremony will take placeon the last day, with the closing Gran Buffet and an exhibition of gelato, chocolateand ice sculptures. www.coppamondogelateria.it

Expos and events in Italy

The next MACEF AUTUMN, the international homeshow, will be held from 8 to 11 September inMilan, together with the 1st edition of AbitaMi, thedecor and design lab. www.macef.it

From 15 to 18 September the SHERBETH FESTI-VAL will animate Cefalù, near Palermo. www.sherbethfestival.it

Gelato, confectionery, chocolate, coffee and arti-san food will be on stage at AGRO.GE.PA.CIOK. inLecce, in October 8 to 12. www.agrogepaciok.it

CHOCODAY, the National Cocoa and ChocolateDay, is scheduled for 12 October with the aim ofpromoting pure chocolate in Italy and around theworld, while EUROCHOCOLATE PERUGIA, the in-ternational chocolate exhibition, will take place inPerugia from 14 to 23 October. www.eurochocolate.com

Chocolate will be the protagonist also of CIOCCO-SHOW from 17 to 21 November in Bologna, andSHOWCOLATE in Naples, 8-11 December.www.cioccoshow.it - www.showcolate.it

SIA GUEST, the international hospitality exhibitionwill be held this year at Rimini Fiera from 26 to 29November. www.siarimini.com

Longarone will host MIG, the international meetingfor gelato makers, from 27 to 30 November.www.mostradelgelato.com

800.525.7873 (PURE) • www.NielsenMassey.com

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A HEALTHY CONTRASTAlessandro Boglione is head chef of Al Castello, Castle of Grinzane Cavour, locatedin one of the most evocative settings of the Langhe, between Alba and Bra, with apanoramic view over the surrounding vineyards.

Everything is the contrary of everything: such is Alessandro Bo-glione. Head chef of the restaurant Al Castello of Grinzane Ca-vour, the conflicting but successful way in which he moves betweenlife and work has placed him firmly on the stage of quality Italiancuisine, obtaining the coveted Michelin star a little more than a yearafter opening the restaurant. He himself struggles to understandhimself: he loves meat but prefers to cook fish; he worked foryears in the family bakery but does not eat sweets. This list of con-tradictions – interesting, funny, even strange – are the basis of hisknowledge and the strength of his identity. These "contrasts" arehis hallmark, forging a strong identity. Alessandro is a chef whoknows where he is going and who has turned a passion into his life,working hard, always humble and respectful of all those who workand have worked with him. These traits came out during our inter-view with him in the magnificent mansion that houses the restau-rant. The Castle of Grinzane is located in one of the most evocativespots of the Langhe, five kilometres from Alba, and built aroundthe central tower dating to the first half of the eleventh century; itcan be admired in all its beauty thanks to the 1960 restoration for

the centenary celebrations of the unification of Italy. A quadrilate-ral with a high tower, it houses the Enoteca Regionale PiemonteseCavour, the first in the region, the Museum with memorabilia ofCavour (Camillo Benso di Cavour lived there from 1832 to 1849,promoting innovations in agriculture and wine-making) and the Mu-seum of Ethnography. Located in this impressive manor house isBoglione's restaurant and adjoining cafeteria. If the latter is theideal place for a quick snack, a drink or a coffee complete withview over the endless vineyards, the warm and refined atmosphereof the restaurant is perfect for an unforgettable gastronomic ex-perience.

How would you define your cooking?"Healthy madness" which has its origins in the passion that has al-ways accompanied my choices, and that goes back to 1987 whenat the end of middle school, I opted for the hotel and catering school.Looking back, I can say that I was lucky not to start with the bignames, but with people who conveyed a certain 'sensitivity' towardstheir work, and the importance of the human factor.

CU

ISIN

E

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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 193434

A HEALTHY CONTRASTAlessandro Boglione is head chef of Al Castello, Castle of Grinzane Cavour, locatedin one of the most evocative settings of the Langhe, between Alba and Bra, with apanoramic view over the surrounding vineyards.

Everything is the contrary of everything: such is Alessandro Bo-glione. Head chef of the restaurant Al Castello of Grinzane Ca-vour, the conflicting but successful way in which he moves betweenlife and work has placed him firmly on the stage of quality Italiancuisine, obtaining the coveted Michelin star a little more than a yearafter opening the restaurant. He himself struggles to understandhimself: he loves meat but prefers to cook fish; he worked foryears in the family bakery but does not eat sweets. This list of con-tradictions – interesting, funny, even strange – are the basis of hisknowledge and the strength of his identity. These "contrasts" arehis hallmark, forging a strong identity. Alessandro is a chef whoknows where he is going and who has turned a passion into his life,working hard, always humble and respectful of all those who workand have worked with him. These traits came out during our inter-view with him in the magnificent mansion that houses the restau-rant. The Castle of Grinzane is located in one of the most evocativespots of the Langhe, five kilometres from Alba, and built aroundthe central tower dating to the first half of the eleventh century; itcan be admired in all its beauty thanks to the 1960 restoration for

the centenary celebrations of the unification of Italy. A quadrilate-ral with a high tower, it houses the Enoteca Regionale PiemonteseCavour, the first in the region, the Museum with memorabilia ofCavour (Camillo Benso di Cavour lived there from 1832 to 1849,promoting innovations in agriculture and wine-making) and the Mu-seum of Ethnography. Located in this impressive manor house isBoglione's restaurant and adjoining cafeteria. If the latter is theideal place for a quick snack, a drink or a coffee complete withview over the endless vineyards, the warm and refined atmosphereof the restaurant is perfect for an unforgettable gastronomic ex-perience.

How would you define your cooking?"Healthy madness" which has its origins in the passion that has al-ways accompanied my choices, and that goes back to 1987 whenat the end of middle school, I opted for the hotel and catering school.Looking back, I can say that I was lucky not to start with the bignames, but with people who conveyed a certain 'sensitivity' towardstheir work, and the importance of the human factor.

CU

ISIN

E

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 35

Your cooking is local yet innovative: how do these two fac-tors merge?By finding a balance which is arrived at through various factors: whatyou aim to express, the context in which it is expressed, and the po-tential customer who interprets it. You worked for two years as pastry chef at the Cafe Conversoof Bra: how did this start?Pastry is the biggest of challenges. I do not eat sweets, not that I donot like them, I just do not eat them because for me everything iscentred on savoury tastes. The project was started by my father,which my brother Federico and I picked up in 1999. We modernisedand invested lots of energy, with excellent results. I left to follow mypassion for savoury tastes, although I still collaborate with him. Pa-stry drives me mad because it is an exact science and I am an “in-stinctive bungler”: two aspects that can not live side by side. To what extent has pastry making influenced your cooking?I often make non-sweet sweets, using savoury products in desserts,sometimes for fun, or just to arouse curiosity in the client. For exam-ple, I like using our homemade artichoke jam with certain cheesesor sweets; I also love using saffron. I was already doing this morethan ten years ago, when between '99 and 2000, I presented at theSalone del Gusto in Turin a line of chocolates with herbs and saffronwith white chocolate. How do you create your dessert menu?It is a separate menu with an identity of its own. It is a small list ofofferings that follows the seasons: nature is the driving force behindour choices. The spring menu, for example, includes a combinationof white chocolate with liquorice mousse and banana cream; a se-mifreddo of ricotta with charred berries and cocoa bean crunch; tworevisited classical desserts, such as profiteroles with coffee fillingand rosemary glaze; and the lemon zuccotto with almonds and ca-ramel gelato. How does a menu materialise?From everything and anything: it is the instinct that originates fromanything, be it a dinner with friends, a magazine, a trade show, amoment of solitude.Is there a method you follow when preparing a menu?The composition of a dish should never exceed the number of fin-gers on one hand. It is a hard and fast rule that governs any recipe:the raw material is accompanied by a maximum of 3 or 4 ingredientsrequired to enhance it. The moment you realize that a dish is too"messy", I begin removing until I find simplicity. The more the yearspass, the more this work of removing becomes perfected in the se-arch for simplicity. What sweet ingredient do you prefer to work with?I am crazy about marron glacé.What about your favourite savoury ingredient?Meat, or even better poultry, even though I love working with fishbecause of its quick cooking.What essential aspects do you believe are essential at the re-staurant?The final coffee, too often neglected, which can ruin a whole meal,and the napkin, i.e. the fibre and the feeling that this leaves on the

lips when you wipe them. Ours are made of a flax and cotton mate-rial that give a pleasant feel. What is the future of cuisine?A move towards the simplification of supply and of prices. I am luckyto have been the last to arrive in a land with a high concentration ofrestaurants managed by big names. Before opening, I looked aroundanalyzing the situation and asked: "This is the market, so how do Icarve out a small slice for myself?" By keeping an eye on prices. What are your future projects?To look ahead and continue to grow together with the staff, which ismy added value. Everything that came from the Michelin star on isall thanks to them.

Monica Onnis

Boglione with his staff.

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rump g 150 bread crumbs, tablespoons no 4

toasted and chopped hazelnuts, tablespoon no 1

spinach g 50maize flour g 100

water as neededegg whites, flour, starch, seed oil, extra virginolive oil, salt and pepperCook the polenta flour in boiling salted water, keeping itmedium soft. Bake for 40 minutes, and then pour into agreased baking pan. When cool cut into cubes and brownthem in the oven or under the grill, making sure they donot become too dry. Mix flour and starch in one dish. Inanother dish mix the chopped hazelnuts and breadcrumbs. Beat the egg whites and continue with the clas-sic breadcrumb coating, then take the rump and place it ina little flour and starch, dip it in the egg white and finishwith the breadcrumbs and hazelnuts.Fry the rump in plenty of hot vegetable oil. Finish in theoven for 4 minutes at 200°C until medium-rare. Blanch thespinach in a hot pan with salt and pepper. Place it in thecentre of the plate and arrange the cubes of polenta. Scal-lop the rump and place it next to the spinach and polenta.Season with oil, salt and pepper.

Rump in hazelnut crustbaked polenta and steamed spinach

Hazelnut mousse with dried oranges

sugar g 600water g 400

egg whites g 200hazelnut paste g 350

cream l 1.5orange l 1

caramelized hazelnuts g 100In an aluminium pan, bring to 121°C 200 g of water and400 g of sugar, making sure that the flame is not toohigh, thus avoiding burning the edge. Separately, whipthe egg whites and drizzle in the sugar syrup until com-pletely cool, resulting in an Italian meringue. Whipcream until the mixture begins to rise. Pour into a bowland add the hazelnut paste, working with a movementfrom the top down, very gently. Finally, add the merin-gue repeating the same movement as before. Be verycareful not to work the two mixtures for too long, whichwould otherwise break them. Place in a plastic contai-ner and refrigerate.

Dried orangesMake syrup with 200 g of water and 200 g of sugar. Putthe syrup on the stove until the sugar is completely dis-solved and allow to cool. Slice an orange in very thinslices; soak the slices in the syrup, drain and lay themon Silpat. Dry them at 90°C for about 2 hours.

Assembly Place a generous tablespoon of mousse gently in thecups. Add a handful of caramelized hazelnuts and stickin two or three slices of dried oranges.

CU

ISIN

E

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Soufflémilk g 250

cream g 600eggs no 3

sugar g 100star anise

Sambuca liqueur no 1 shot almond strips g 50

black grapes, caramel sugar

Make an infusion with 250 g of cream, milk and star anise. Separately mixthree eggs with sugar without whisking them, and add them to the infu-sion. Bake at 73°C and add the shot of Sambuca. Cool, then strain andadd 350 g of liquid cream, stirring until creamy and smooth. Pour into asiphon and load with two charges of gas. Allow to cool completely forabout 1 hour.

Almond sponge egg yolks no 2

whole eggs no 3almond paste g 100

sugar g 150

Star anise gelato souffléalmond sponge with candied grapes

butter g 50flour g 90

starch g 50yeast g 8

Crumble the almond paste into the cutter with 75 g of sugar, being ca-reful not to let it warm up. Melt the butter in a frying pan while maintai-ning a low temperature. Beat eggs and egg yolks with an additional 75g of sugar. When they are well beaten, add the almond paste gently. Driz-zle in the butter, stirring gently, add flour, starch and yeast, previously sif-ted, and stir from bottom to top. Place in a plate with edge already linedwith baking paper. Bake for 30 minutes at 180°C with the valve closed.

Assembly Cut the cake into strips to create the base for one-portion moulds. Si-phon the mixture to fill the mould, then freeze in freezer or chiller. Heatsugar in a pan and let it brown, then remove from heat and sauté the gra-pes until evenly covered in caramel; allow to cool. Meanwhile take amould from the freezer, detach it and lay in the centre of the dish. Placegrapes on top and finish with toasted almonds in strips. Wait a few mi-nutes before serving.

Alessandro BoglioneAl Castello, Grinzane Cavour, Cn

www.castellodigrinzane.it

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Petits gâteaux are small inviting desserts, which can be pro-duced by pastry chefs and gelato makers wishing to keepabreast of the times. Elenka offers a wide range of specificproducts for the making of such desserts, verrines, and alsosemifreddos and gelato cakes including layers of sponge bi-scuit, short pastry or puff pastry. Nine classical Italian tastesare available: chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, coffee, zabaione,

zuppa inglese, panna cotta, almond and strawberry. Moreover, Milka Speedy and Ciocco Speedy of the Top Mousse line are parti-cularly suitable for the quick making of mousses. www.Elenka.eu

Fruit passionCoconut biscuit

eggs g 500sugar g 200

almonds g 200flour g 100

coconut paste g 50grated coconut

Whisk eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl. Add the coconut pasteand the sieved flours. Cover a tray with Silpat and spread the mix-ture on it using a spatula. Sprinkle with grated coconut and bakeat 220°C for 6-8 minutes.

Strawberry semifreddofresh cream g 500

milk g 125Prontocrema g 75

Base 786 g 50strawberry paste g 75

Whisk all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and, when the mixtureis foamy, turn off the machine.

Orange semifreddofresh cream g 500

milk g 125Base 786 g 50

Prontocrema g 75orange aroma g 30

Use the same method as for the strawberry semifreddo.

AssemblyCover the surface of a semispheric mould with the strawberry se-mifreddo. Insert a smaller mould in order to shape the thicknessof the dessert and freeze. Pour some water in the inner mould,then throw it away and remove the semifreddo from the mould,making in twirl. Fill half of it with orange semifreddo, and put alayer of coconut biscuit. Smooth, add Fanta Fragola and finishwith some strawberry semifreddo. Smooth and put a layer of co-conut biscuit. Freeze, remove and spread with Gelatin Glasse.Decorate with sugar rings, strawberries, grated coconut and pie-ces of chocolate.

TRENDY FANTASY

38

ITALIAN QUALITY CONQUERS THE US PROFESSIONAL MARKET

In keeping with its international vocation, the Agostoni family, who have been at thehelm of Icam since 1946, has now landed in the USA. They have gone one step fur-ther by promoting, through the Icam business, not just the outstanding quality of pro-ducts, but also the value of chocolate culture. The company from Lecco boasts a longhistory of processing cocoa and making chocolate with the highest quality standards,to guarantee products that are much admired by professionals the world over. Control over the entire production chain – from the selection of the cocoa plantationsin the countries of origin right through to the customisation of products for the profes-sional market – allows Icam to offer a guarantee of quality, which ensures transpa-rency throughout all stages of the production process, as well as completetraceability, in order respond to the requirements of an increasingly demanding, com-petitive market. Icam has been able to obtain rewarding results both in Italy and abroad and this suc-cess has opened the door to new business opportunities. In particular, the growth thathas taken place over recent years has led to the set-up of Agostoni Chocolate NorthAmerica Inc, headquartered in Los Angeles and created in order to support the ex-panding US market with a dedicate sales service, as well as the private label, foodservice and renowned semi-finished products distributed throughout Italy and a num-ber of other European countries under the Icam Linea Professionale brand.Agostoni Chocolate is the first step that involves the ownership and the firm, and newoperating branches are set to open soon, with particular attention being paid to theEnglish-speaking world and other markets with major potential for development, suchas Russia and other European countries. www.icam.it - www.icamprofessionale.it

Page 41: #19 Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2011

www.icamprofessionale.it

Italian down to the last drop.

I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R A T I O N , O U R P A S S I O N .

Every last drop of Icam chocolate

contains something truly inimitable

and unique: a passion for taste and

creativity that’s Italian through and

through. Sixty years of experience

in the world of chocolate, carefully

selected raw materials, full control

throughout the farming and

production chain and the use of the

most advanced technology currently

available: this is what makes Icam the

last word in quality Italian chocolate.

Icam Linea Professionale is here to

help you turn this quality chocolate into

exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian

right down to the last drop.

Page 42: #19 Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2011

Micron ball refiner

The Selmi company, established in 1965, started its activity as hazelnut paste processingcompany and afterwards focused on chocolate processing, thus becoming a

specialist in the manufacturing of tempering and covering machines. The company boasts unique features, such as the constant striving for te-

chnological improvements combined with the structural simplicity of its ma-chines, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellentservice, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s plant.Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and as-sistance for the customers are therefore essential steps of the produc-

tion procedure.Micron is a ball refiner that can be used to produce hazelnut paste, sprea-

dable creams, pralinated products, cream sweets and all flavoured anhydrouspastes. The machine

is equipped with arefrigerator with thepurpose of regula-

ting, within the set li-mits, the excess heat

caused by the friction genera-ted between the spheres, thus pre-

serving the organoleptic qualities of the product.The circulation of the product during refinement is maintai-ned by a dual purpose volumetric pump. The refining cylin-der (20 kg capacity, 10 kg/hour) is also regulated tomaintain a warm temperature and to prevent the fatty resi-dues between the balls from solidifying during pauses inthe working cycle. Power consumption is 4kW threephase 380V, 5 poles, 16A. The machine needs to be con-nected to a compressed air supply. www.selmi-group.it

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CIOCOFANTASY in Cornigliano

The Pro Loco of Cornigliano, nearGenoa, is organising the CiocofantasyHorror Show, with a helping hand fromthe chocolate maker Antonio Le Rose,owner of Il Tempio del Cioccolato inGenoa, under the artistic direction ofMassimo Santimone. The chocolate fe-stival, which will be held at PalazzoBombrini on 22 and 23 October, drawsits inspiration from well-known horrorpersonalities, from Dracula to Franken-stein, "sweetened" for the occasion.www.pasticceriainternazionale.itwww.prolococornigliano.it

CUTTING BOARDS WITHANTIBACTERIAL DISPOSABLE FILMS

Strapper, the first cutting board with an antibacterialdisposable film, was created by Piero Guglielmi, anexpert in working polyethylene for alimentary use.Traditional cutting boards must be often changed inconformity with strict hygienic standards, and Gu-glielmi studied together with the chef Stefano Doni-gaglia this special multi coloured and multi shapedcutting board for food use. Its manufacturing processmakes it compact, strong and easily washable, and itis equipped with a 2 mm special replaceable adhe-sive film on the surface, which can be easily removedwhen worn out (see pictures), while the base can beused many more times. www.strapper.it

Page 43: #19 Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2011

T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com

My world has changed.My new multifunction helper: Multi Fresh®, Irinox.

Multi Fresh®, a new way of working which goes beyond blast chilling.

Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh® offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profitsand improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlledthawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh® a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.

Page 44: #19 Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2011

www.strapper.it piero guglielmi

THE INTELLIGENT CUTTING BOARD

GAMBERO ROSSO

Official supplier of Tested and recomanded by

Strapper is a cutting board for alimentary use,

composed by a polyethylene board and a special adesive film,

that, once used and at risk for bacteria attack,

is easily removable and changeable.

Via Brignani, 14/3 - 48022 Lugo (Ra) - ItalyPhone +39 0545/30498 - Fax +39 0545/369327 - [email protected]

Madein Italy